turbotuner20v

When I was looking for a DIY, I couldn't really find anything for a C6 that showed blown out pictures to get a good perspective for where everything went. I snapped a few pictures while I installed my kit in case they'd be helpful for anyone else.

I'm doing a Z06 front conversion, so I had the fender off already. It wasn't hard to take off and I highly recommend it for this job. I really can't imagine trying to do it while the fender is still in place.

Here is a wide shot of where the pump and washer tank go:


Here are the holes you drill for the pump. I couldn't figure out how to get it positioned right so all 4 screws are used. You can see my first attempt where there is a low hole on the bottom left, and another hole on the upper right. Both of these holes mounted the pump too low, so I had to drill new holes higher up and skip the screw in the top right position:


Even in the 2nd, higher position (which was the absolute highest the screw in the top left could go as the frame rail curved), this is how close the pump is to the bottom of the fender (watch out for speed bumps if you're lowered):


In order to mount the pump this high, you'll have to reposition the washer fluid tank. There is a weird 'tab' at the top of the neck that gets caught on misc. lines around the clutch fluid reservoir. I trimmed it off. (btw, to remove the washer tank you'll need to unbolt the clutch fluid reservoir and move it up and away):


While you have the tank out, drill your 7/8" hole in the bottom. Make sure to mock up your meth feed line while bolting in the pump to get a general idea for where to drill. I ended up drilling in the furthest corner from the pump where there was still flat material to help seal better:


Now reinstall the washer fluid tank and attach it with self tapping screws like you did with the pump. You can only attach it at 2 points, the 3rd hole is now in open space. Run all your lines and electrical connections:


Even with the washer fluid tank moved up and over, the neck still fits ok in the engine bay:



All the other instructions from ECS or whever else for the nozzles and wiring seem to work ok between the C5 and C6, so that's all I took pictures of. Hopefully somebody finds it helpful

wallyj

Thanks for posting. These are great pictures and will make my install easier. Now, if I could just get off my lazy azz and install the kit I've had for a couple months now...

BLWN427

I plan on installing mine today. Thanks for the pictures and write up!

F-2

Nice

realcanuk

Nice write up. The only thing I will add is that if you are not removing the fender for other reason as the op was, there is plenty of room for the install by just undoing the bottom and pulling it outwards to make room. I did my alky kit this way with no issues.
The box my kit came in was the perfect size.

2008LS3

How did you do the nozzle? Did you mount it after the Intake Air/Maf sensor? Or before? Mine is right in front of the throttle body.

realcanuk

Not my car but my nozzle is mounted in exactly the same spot.

2008LS3

So the way you did it the computer doesn't see the cooler air coming in from the meth?

5 Liter Eater

Nice writeup. I did pretty much the exact same thing (moved the tank up to get the pump level with the frame).

turbotuner20v

You need to break the IAT out of the MAF into a different stand alone sensor. If you spray through the MAF you'll have issues.

You leave your MAF, then add a generic IAT sensor along w/ a harness to plug into both the MAF and the IAT sensor.

I haven't gotten to installing them in the charge pipe yet, but I'll take pics of that too.

realcanuk

My eforce setup uses a tmap on the head unit so it reads after the nozzle. Otherwise you need to breaakout a seperate iat sensor after the nozzle as others explained.

CYA-Vett

Is that a new kit? I thought all the pumps had covers for a few years now.

madmax4499

good info, i had no idea you had to raise the tank to make it fit.

2008LS3

What are the benefits of having a separate IAT sensor for the meth to be seen? Does it make more power? I realize the computer can now sense the meth but how does it benefit the car/power?

turbotuner20v

I bought it from spinmonster last fall used, but it's not supposed to be that old... I was surprised when it wasn't black.

turbotuner20v

You can tune the car to change timing advance based on the IAT value. So if the meth is spraying and you have low IAT, it runs lots of timing. If the meth fails and your IAT's jump, it will pull back lots of timing.

Right now if you don't have that and are running 28* or whatever you mentioned earlier and the pump fails or there's an issue with the meth, you're probably going to be in trouble, especially if you're relying on it for fuel too.

I didn't get a chance to work on the car much today, but I'll mock mine up and snap a pic real quick to show you how to set it up on a procharger charge pipe.

turbotuner20v

Here's the inside of the charge pipe. Meth nozzles are mounted at '2' and '10' o'clock. The IAT is mounted at '9' o'clock (ignore that the IAT sensor isn't secured, need to get a washer and nut from the hardware store tomorrow). It does make me a bit nervous mounting something like this in the intake of the motor, but I haven't read much about meth nozzles falling out and killing motors, so I'm probably ok.


Here's the break out kit from casper electronics. It retains the MAF functions, but splits the IAT wire out to get a signal from your new stand alone IAT sensor:


Here is everything installed. MAF > meth > IAT. The meth nozzles are mounted through both the coupler and the charge pipe and the IAT is mounted only in the silicone coupler:


The SS line in the ECS kit is sized well to do a pretty clean install:

Dragracer_Art

I did mine also without removing the fender... and propped it out exactly the same way, with a cardboard box.


There is no need to cut the upper mounting tab off the reservoir. Just poke a new hole through the fender liner and put a bolt and flat washer through it. It adds much needed support to an already flimsy gooseneck filler pipe.

turbotuner20v

The tab on my reservoir didn't have anything securing it originally. When I removed it, the tab seemed to just be resting on some wires for support. If any fluid weight was added to the neck portion with the tab cut off, it would still just rest on the same pile of wires. It wouldn't hurt to have a bolt in it, but it has been working fine without one. The car may be new enough that the plastic isn't brittle yet, but how much support is needed there?

realcanuk

Contact Julio at Alky control and get the rubber condom for it. It prevents issues with water possibly getting into the pump and causing issues.