Deezee757

Hey guys, havent posted in some time been busy with work. Cars running great though and Im debating the next go round of mods. I have to say that Im MORE than happy with the power! 700whp/630tq. My only concern is 1. How long until my "just blew my motor" thread, and 2. How to "safley" max out the 1500. I'll post a quick mod recap, then my ideas.

2011 Base C6 6MT
ECS Paxton SL1500 Blower w/original pully, restrictor opened to 12psi
MSD BoostA
LG 1 7/8 Catless LT's, SLP Loud Mouth II Exhaust
ECS AlkyControl Meth Kit (100% Meth)
Lethal Racing Night Fury Cam

My biggest thing here is being safer, but if Im going to pay for safe and can pick up some hp with it then I wont complian. The car is my DD and I have no plans to run with the texas boys (1000whp+ club) Id say about 800-850whp is my "goal" but Im pretty happy with it now. So here is what Im thinking..

1.) Forged pistons and rods, head bolts, and gasket. (Maybe the crank too?) Pistons seem to be the #1 fail point, (follwed by rods) and from what I see here, should be "safe" for 800-850. If I go this route should I drop the compression? What kind of hp would I safely see with this option?

2.) Built short block. Seems like an over kill ($$$) for what I need, and Im SURE if I did it a YSI would be next as I wont be able to fight it! Even if I dont NEED it! lol!!

3.) Im sure at 800-850whp Im going to need a better fuel system. Suggetions? I like the ECS so far.

4.) Dallasperformance Direct drive? Needed at 850?

I dont even know if the 1500 will do 850 on stock cubes? But these are my loose ideas as of right now. Thoughts, opinions...

Detoxx03

I personally would go with a aftermarket block and use yours as a core but you can most definitely throw rods and pistons in yours. The crank is optional if you wanna stroke it but that's a personal preference. Lowering the compression is a good idea. 9.8-10.2 is a good place to be. Upgraded fuel system is a must. Direct drive from Dallas Performance is a great choice. You're on the right path for the most part. Go ahead and get a RPS clutch while you're at it.

Deezee757

Yea a clutch really isnt "optional" thats why its not on my list, but mine isnt showing any wear. No Idea how? I dont launch the car so its been fine. Thats going in in this go round either way. RPS, Mantic, or McLeod for sure.

The only reason I havent decided to just do a new block is Im not sure its needed for 850? If I do I'll go with a 416 or something, but then it will be ready for much more blower and I dont really NEED that. Why build the block if your not going to USE it is how I see it! lol. Im not even sure I need a direct drive at that power level?

winters97gt

3.125 pulley, direct drive, rods/pistons, fuel system, and a nice set of heads will get you around your goals. I made 850 with that kit/blower and I think that is about as much power that headunit is capable of. The 2000-2200 would probably be a better choice. A little more power under the curve, you won't be maxing/over spinning the blower so intake temps might not be as high. I'm sure ECS can chime in since they have done it a ton of times.

McLeod RXT is an amazing clutch for the street/track. Feels stock and takes a beating.

Detoxx03

I personally am gonna go with a aftermarket block and more cubes. I'm sure the stock block will be fine for 850 but I feel better with a stronger block.

Deezee757

Thats pretty much my thoughst on it. Like I said Im not "looking" for more power, just trying to make it safer. A little more never hurts though. Ill probably skip the heads, and am guessing around 800whp. That is MORE than enough for my needs! Looking forward to hearing from ECS on this one.

After all the abuse you gave that RXT im alomst positive thats what Im going to go with! I like the Mantic too though. I drove a 2010 camaro with it and liked it a lot. How was the RXT when you slod it? Still in great shape?

Yea if I went the whole block id do the same. But if I did the whloe block Id do a YSI and even bigger fuel system and shoot for 900+. It would be a lot more $$$ and even more than I need. Just trying to avoid that!

c6vette142dude

I'm working on upgrading as well, and I'm having the stock heads ported. Staying with my original block as well and going with a forged .408 stroker kit. Clutch - going with the RPS Twin street carbon, though I've heard nothing but good things about McLeod. As for fuel, will see what happens on the dyno. The shop that's doing my build has put out many 850whp vettes with the stock fuel system and a BAP, but I may go with an AEROMOTIVE...don't want a "band-aid" fuel system anymore. I'm looking to make 800-850whp as well. If there is more than enough fuel with the stock fuel system to reach my goal, then I'll keep it until it fails. Once it fails, then I'll upgrade to an AEROMOTIVE intank pump.

Deezee757

Yea I dont think I was close to out of fuel yet either. But since Im going to go through all this trouble to be "safer" the boostA has got to go. I like the ECS stage one system, and it just over $1K last I checked. Ill admit though I havent looked into the fuel systems as much and if you guys have other suggestions Im listening. I'll check out the areomotive system. In my opinion I woudnt go over 700-750whp without a REAL fuel system though. Just my $.02.

What stroker kit are you using? You have a link maybe? I havent seen too many of those posted here. Most seem to just get a new block.

c6vette142dude

I'm getting the kit from the shop that's doing the build. It's going to run me 2750.00. CR will be 9.0.1. As for the fuel, once it's on the dyno, will see how things go. If things start to look thin "up top", then I'm dropping in the Aeromotive. I like the intank pumps because they stay cooler and are out of the way. The Aeromotive pumps also uses the stock sipon as well. It's a direct fit designed for the c6.

TRINIC5

700rwhp is the best entertainment you can get on the street, it hooks ok and there are hardly another car that can blow your doors on the street. I was making the same power and had the most fun on the street until I made my car a Dyno Queen, I eventually turned down my power to enjoy my car on the street. Big HP is not always the best power because hooking become your big problem and a 600/700 rwhp car now hooks and leave you playing catch up

Vetter 1

c6vette142dude

True! I think the big hp is geared more toward hgwy roll-on's and not so much for the track, unless you have some serious tires and suspension.

DOUG @ ECS

My personal suggestion, (you can tell what a great salesmen I am here...) Just remove the restrictor plate, check the tune over, mix a few gallons of 100 octane in the fuel, and go enjoy for a long time!

I have several stock engine cars on the road with over 800 RWHP this way and your mods. The stock engines last as long as you have ample octane, they do not take any detonation well.
Pump gas is too hit or miss these days, mixing some race fuel should be done at 800rwhp regardless of being forged or not. (many variables-compression etc, but for the most part)

Being a DD maybe use Torco or VP's octane booster for ease of use, but thats more or less the only down fall to these stock engines sustaining big power.

So my recommended mods at this time would be our stage 1 fuel system, remove the restrictor plate, have the tune checked, purchase a 5 gal container of Torco or equivalent, and go and enjoy, you do not need to spend big money to be where you would like to be.

Vetter 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iiim1VyoLwE

Le Mans Z06

I've read mixed reviews on Torco, in my situation would you recommend adding a little here and there for everyday driving?

DOUG @ ECS

There's a prime example^^ of simple yet effective mods. This car has our charger kit, meth and headers. THATS IT!


Another 9 second stock engine car owner^^ Base ECS kit-meth-stg1 fuel system and headers!
(didn't save much buying that other kit did you)


Torco works, simple as that. I have countless dyno examples of it. Anyone who knows me, knows my three words to live by when owning a high HP car, OCTANE-OCTANE-OCTANE.
I see many posts about 8-900+ rwhp builds on pump gas and really all they are doing IMHO is showing their lack of experience. It's not a tuning crutch as some like to think, it's simple physics that you will lose too every time if not followed. Not first pass, probably not on the dyno, but the longevity will not be there.
I prefer to mix VP100 or MS109 (unleaded) for the volume added over Torco, but Torco does work.

peter pan

I remember running my boosted 347 just shy of 800 rwhp at the Texas Mile with zero issues, I ran it on 5 gallons of 93 and 5 gallons of 109 with the tune for 93 and my single Meth setup maxed out and zero issues as Doug stated, to bad I wrecked the Vette, the motor was still going strong and it was a forged LS6 with 243 heads

Robert 2000

Do you see a loss in power for running torco without the tune adjusted to having it?

I would like the added insurance but dont want to need it at all times.

Unreal

Doug, so in addition to meth to make 800-900 you suggest torco/racefuel?

In my case would you add some? 427LSX, 9.7:1 compression, ~900rwhp with dual nozzle alky control spraying 100% meth.

Torco is awesome stuff and I don't mind using it.

DOUG @ ECS

I never personally tune more aggressive because of race fuel usage unless it is a race car. I tune it on pump gas/meth and use the race fuel mix as a safety net for bad gas, and the knock that the ECM does not pick up during racing.
Using the unleaded race fuels like VP100 or MS109 can be used without any tune changes, I have not seen any noticeable EGT temp raises from it. C16 on the other hand does need some tuning changes IMO or the EGT's will raise substantially from a pump gas street tune.