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Upgrading crank pulley

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Old 01-07-2013, 03:26 PM   #1
revo1059
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Default Upgrading crank pulley

When installing an A&A kit is it recommended (since it will all be apart)or is the stock one good enough?
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:28 PM   #2
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They fail even when stock, personally I would recommend it. I went 8 rib on mine that way when it came time to do a 8 rib setup it was already in place. You can still run a 6 rib off of a 8 rib setup (At least with the ECS kit, I would assume A&A is no different but maybe someone can confirm that)
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:39 PM   #3
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Any recommendations on one?
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:47 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by revo1059 View Post
Any recommendations on one?
ATI or Innovators West. I personally went with Innovators West.
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:53 PM   #5
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I know it all adds up, but may as well do a cam then too if you're swapping the balancer.
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:27 PM   #6
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Cam was previously done.

So is this what I should look into?

http://www.innovatorswest.com/842-LSX-Damper.html

Last edited by revo1059; 01-07-2013 at 06:32 PM.
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:39 PM   #7
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Cam was previously done.

So is this what I should look into?

http://www.innovatorswest.com/842-LSX-Damper.html
I'd go ahead and do the 10% overdrive while you're doing it. Just be aware that it will increase boost a bit. ColoradoSpeed had the best prices from what I found.
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:17 PM   #8
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Get the 10% over up front, even if you have to pulley up on the blower it is worth it.

You should be able to get one for $500. IW is the way to go.
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:50 PM   #9
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So this would be it right?

http://www.coloradospeed.com/innovat...8-p-13817.html
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:09 PM   #10
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Yup
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:14 PM   #11
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Great, thanks.

Any other special bolts or pins or keys that I might need, or is it just a straight swap?
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Great, thanks.

Any other special bolts or pins or keys that I might need, or is it just a straight swap?
You will need a crank pin kit unless you have an aftermarket crank with a key, also a new crank bolt
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:18 PM   #13
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Straight swap besides needing to pin it just like the stock one. The stuff A&A sent will work.

I know you can get them cheaper than that though if you look around.
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:37 PM   #14
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Great info. Thanks

Can the A&A install be done with the car on jack stands? Also if I do the install myself can the car be driven as is to a tuner or do I have to trailer it?
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:51 AM   #15
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Easy on jackstands.

You have a few options on that 2nd part. You could send your ECU for a base tune, find a local to flash in a file for you, tow it, or drive it there with the stock injectors and just swap injectors at the tuner. If you do the last one just don't get on it at all.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:29 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Easy on jackstands.

You have a few options on that 2nd part. You could send your ECU for a base tune, find a local to flash in a file for you, tow it, or drive it there with the stock injectors and just swap injectors at the tuner. If you do the last one just don't get on it at all
That's the hard part, but it's what I did. I drove close to 100 miles with the stock injectors, then swapped them and got it tuned. Just need to act like there's an egg on the gas pedal.
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:37 PM   #17
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Crap, the IW balancer sticks out too far for the A&A system (6 rib). I don't want to convert to an 8 rib system (just spending $ I'll never use up to it's potential), so this is what A&A recommends.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-c2501
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:40 PM   #18
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I would go with ATI. I just ordered one myself.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:50 PM   #19
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Does the ATI fit with the 6 rib A&A system? Do you have a part #?
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:08 PM   #20
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I don't think so. Matt@FPS told me the A&A kit is picky on crank pulleys.
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