Dragracer_Art

I'm not all that familiar with the way these fuel systems are engineered... and would like to replace the factory fuel rails with a set of logs and return system, using a boost referenced pressure regulator.
I don't want to buy a "kit". I'd rather piece it together and custom fit everything myself.

Is there a way to do this without dropping the tanks ?
I have no problem drilling and tapping pipe threads into the factory tank. I really don't want to put a fuel cell in this car.

Here is what I'm working with:




I did a complete fuel system on my GN a few years ago... but that was a much simpler job.

Unreal

To run a boost reference you need to drop the tanks to get rid of the factory regulators if you plan on running fuel pressure lower than ~58psi.

Check out the fore system (you can buy just the hat/etc) and plumb in the rest yourself. It is what I'm running now and seems to work great. Rails/lines/etc is all basic, just run what you want. I have a -8 feed and -6 return. Billet rails, aeromotive FPR.

The other option is to just do something like the ECS stage 1 kit which isn't boost referenced. Just a second pump that kicks on at a set PSI with a separate feed line.

jon6.0

Do it the way A&A does by the tanks. That's how I set mine up. Feed comes off the drivers side tank and the return goes back to the drivers side tank. I run a Bosch 044 on a Hobbs and the return off the port on the stock rails. Cost about 1/2 what A&A charges when it was initially built with a Walbro 255. I've been meaning to replace my rails as well. If I replace them, I would do dual feeds into the back of the rails, then have the return come off the front of both rails, "Y" together, then go into the regulator. That way one side won't see a different pressure drop on an initial demand spike.

Although a lot of people supply off one side, let it flow down the rail, crossover to the other rail, then feed back down the second rail, and have the return coming off the end of the second rail. Less fittings and less busy looking that way. I'm not sure what HP that's safe up to though.

You can still boost reference it. You would have to set the base pressure at 58 psi though or your fuel won't transfer between tanks.

Drewstein

As Unreal said, dropping the tanks needs to be considered. It's not a big deal and not nearly as drastic as adding a fuel cell.

Can you tell us why you're doing the fuel system? Do you need more fuel to support your current level or are you stepping it up a notch? Maybe just for looks?

Unreal

Pretty sure Art wants to step it up a notch. He is already making mid 600s with an auto so that is pushing it for factory pump/bap. That is my old blower kit and Art gave it a nice home.

If you want 800rwhp or less, do like John said. Basically A&A or ECS stage 1 kit. Past that plan on dropping tanks even if it is just to put in the bypass plugs. Honestly I would just call Fran since he is your tuner and do what he says.

Dragracer_Art

I plan to turn it up a bit over the winter and wanted to get started on the little stuff first.
Right now I am on a meth-dependant tune... and would like more fuel system to fall back on in the meantime. Once I upgrade to a YSI, I can just drop a set of injectors in it and have it tuned.

This is how I worked up to the blower.
I did the intake first... then headers/exhaust... then meth kit & BAP. Everything was already in place when the blower went on.
I drove to RPM, swapped injectors in the parking lot and let them flog it on the dyno.

I've already got an LS3 maf tube and 2nd meth nozzle ready to go.

I still have a nitrous bottle and pair of solenoids under my workbench. Might need to work that into the winter upgrades too.

Dragracer_Art

800rwhp is probably about the limit for the stock bottom end... so that's where I'm headed.

Can the stock feed line be used as a return ?
I can plumb an A1000 from the bottom of the drivers side tank with a -08 line. It would be ideal if I could return via the stock feedline.
If not... maybe I'll just run a seperate -06 line to the top of the tank for a return. That would completely isolate/eliminate the stock fuel system. I could just unplug the stock fuel pump then.

jon6.0

You need your stock pump to transfer fuel between tanks.

I'm not boost referenced. I just have large enough injectors and pump that I'm flowing enough fuel for where I'm at. Another option.

Look at the big pump that A&A uses for their high horsepower kit. It's a Holley Dominator HP Billet. Part number 12-1800. It's actually two pumps in a single case. You can run only one or both as your HP needs dictate.

http://www.holley.com/types/Billet_E...line_Pumps.asp

Why YSi? I think a Ti trim would get you there. If you already have a T trim, it's only a $680 upgrade when you send it in to Vortech. They can only upgrade T's with the HD bearings though. So you need to call with your serial number.

Dragracer_Art

Nah... I started with the baseline Si V3 blower. I will eventually outgrow a T-trim... so the YSI is the only option.

jon6.0

Makes sense to me. If I had your blower I would do the same.

For me though, I'll send it in for a Ti upgrade. I'm already at 673rwhp with 11* of timing. Once I add meth I will probably be 730-750rwhp. Then that last little push of Ti upgrade to hit 800. I'm on the stock bottom end also.

Unreal

Like Jon said, you can't just disconnect the factory pump. You need to have it run to drive the transfer system. You could use the factory feed as a return with enough adapters/etc if you swapped to a different in tank setup. You could do the drop in aeromotive A1000 with controller/etc.

jon6.0

Keep it simple. The A&A style system will be more than enough for 800-1000rwhp and you aren't spending crazy money.

Just build it out yourself and spend way less. http://www.aacorvette.com/supercharg...3j4v2341somos0

turbotuner20v

I built my own and posted pictures of most of the steps in my build thread. I also used the stock fuel rails and they've been fine to 915+whp on E85.

jon6.0

Damn. I was starting to get worried and I'm nowhere near what you are at. How can you really tell if your rails are doing good or have bad flow in some areas?

5 Liter Eater

jon6.0

Rails seem like cheap insurance for big power. Just because your AFR is good past the collector, doesn't mean a cylinder or two isn't going too lean. Unless you have a wideband or EGT off each cylinder and data log it, you aren't going to know for sure.

Unreal

ECS I believe has pushed stock rails to 1100+rwhp so 900 shouldn't be an issue.

jon6.0

On what fuel?

turbotuner20v

Pretty sure ECS runs them too to a pretty high HP level.

I've checked the plugs and they all look good, a/f ratio is good and fuel pressure is always where it should be. I also run the car pretty hard and haven't had any issues.

gotjuice?

I made my own system similar to Turbotunner. Used aftermarket rails, Both fed from the rear. Factory line used as a return line. 1k whp on 93. Transfer working correctly. I also used the fuel tank bulkhead from ECS. Turned out to be a very clean install with no issues. Factory setup until boost to activate Magnafuel pump.