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Old 08-07-2014, 11:46 AM
  #21  
5 Liter Eater
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Originally Posted by Smoove
PROefi actually doesn't have a system to plug and play(reason why we bought it-didn't find out till it arrived-long story).
Have fun with that....

I don't think DPE is still making/selling them. I made my own and then DSteck started making them. I'd just get one from him.

It's not that you "can't" run more than 21.5#, it's just that it's going to use the last column for fueling. So if you used a pulley on it that exceeded that then you'd just have to use the last column. Kinda like overrunning a MAF tune, which, BTW, is super easy to do on an '05, even with a 4" pipe and card MAF. You pretty much have to go 2.5 bar SD.
Old 08-07-2014, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
Have fun with that....

I don't think DPE is still making/selling them. I made my own and then DSteck started making them. I'd just get one from him.

It's not that you "can't" run more than 21.5#, it's just that it's going to use the last column for fueling. So if you used a pulley on it that exceeded that then you'd just have to use the last column. Kinda like overrunning a MAF tune, which, BTW, is super easy to do on an '05, even with a 4" pipe and card MAF. You pretty much have to go 2.5 bar SD.

dude I have beaten my head into the wall countless times with everything on this car..the proefi thing....blows. When you say you made your own, do you mean an interface/connection using a proefi setup? Or your own MAP connection? Just wanna be sure before I ask more questions.

We did run a maf setup on my car, trickery(I am not the tuner). I think I have a 3.5 charge pipe on this thing..maybe it's a 3" actually...lol...I need to double check that. If I ran a MAF/slot style, I would need to have a larger diameter tube wouldn't I?

Kinda at a loss to be honest, which route to go. I hear Zr1 maf's...I hear speed density....this 05 is just an odd ball to me. I PLAN on getting the car running without the proefi.... then incorporate that into the mix(it showed up so late...harness was in the car...and I haven't had time to re pin everything). I just want to get the car operating,..working so I can test everything.

Old 08-07-2014, 12:37 PM
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Sorry, I made my own MAP be dremmeling out the old sensor and replacing it with a 2.5 bar one, soldering, etc. Similar to what Steck does.

You'd want at least a 4" tube to put the card MAF into in order to maximize the range but even then you're going to max it out at <15#. And MAF or SD you're going to have to scale the tune for the injectors and you can't just do the "double stoich" trick on an '05, you have to scale all airflow/airmass tables. The '05 is a bastard child for many reasons, but you know that already.
Old 08-07-2014, 01:04 PM
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I went from ls2 MAF to 4 inch housing and card style bc I was running out of maf and it works flawless now..

Off topic question. did you have any drawbacks on the old setup mounting your BOV on the charge pipe? Some say its bad putting that close to the MAF? Thanks for any input!
Old 08-07-2014, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
SD you're going to have to scale the tune for the injectors and you can't just do the "double stoich" trick on an '05, you have to scale all airflow/airmass tables.
This is not true.
Old 08-07-2014, 01:20 PM
  #26  
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I'm not close to maxing my card maf out at 1100rwhp with a 4" pipe. Hit ~13khz and can go up to 15khz.
Old 08-07-2014, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by DSteck
This is not true.
Well I disagree but I'm not about to go through my tune and change everything just to see. Besides, then I'd be off my spark map.
Old 08-07-2014, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
I'm not close to maxing my card maf out at 1100rwhp with a 4" pipe. Hit ~13khz and can go up to 15khz.
But the '05 stops at 12.2k.
Old 08-07-2014, 02:45 PM
  #29  
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Even with the 2.5bar os? Just do the custom OS then it extends out.
Old 08-07-2014, 03:11 PM
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Not on the '05. E40 FTL
Old 08-07-2014, 04:26 PM
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interesting info.
Old 08-07-2014, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
Well I disagree but I'm not about to go through my tune and change everything just to see. Besides, then I'd be off my spark map.
I do it all the time. What exactly do you think doesn't work?
Old 08-08-2014, 10:15 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Smoove

I think I have a 3.5 charge pipe on this thing..maybe it's a 3" actually...lol...I need to double check that.

Thats a large blower that does not like choke put on the end of it. We highly highly highly recommend 4" piping to be used, to keep the blower happy. (If not 3.5", and even 3.5" inlets and outlets on intercooler)

A pretty easy way to break a blower is to use to small of tubing, not enough surge valve, and cause violent compressor surge.

Tubing is pretty cheap if it has to be redone, blowers are not.

Can't wait to see the finished project.
Old 08-08-2014, 11:27 AM
  #34  
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I do it all the time. What exactly do you think doesn't work?
Doubling stoich and cutting IFR in half and not having to scale anything else on an E40.

Last edited by 5 Liter Eater; 08-08-2014 at 11:42 AM.
Old 08-08-2014, 11:34 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
Doubling stoich and halfing IFR and not having to scale anything else on an E40.
I do it allllll the time. I'm not sure how else to convince you. Anything that needs that treatment doesn't use a MAF anyway, and the cylinder airmass still gets calculated out to what it needs to be.
Old 08-08-2014, 01:30 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ProChargerTech
Thats a large blower that does not like choke put on the end of it. We highly highly highly recommend 4" piping to be used, to keep the blower happy. (If not 3.5", and even 3.5" inlets and outlets on intercooler)

A pretty easy way to break a blower is to use to small of tubing, not enough surge valve, and cause violent compressor surge.

Tubing is pretty cheap if it has to be redone, blowers are not.

Can't wait to see the finished project.
Thanks for the tech tip.

Are you referring to something caused by throttle lift off, or compressor surge at WOT?

Bought blower from well known forum member here with a 3" outlet, I believe it's 3 inch anyways. I have 2 tial 50bovs and a jgs 60 wastegate as well on the compressor side to control boost.
Old 08-08-2014, 01:43 PM
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FWIW, Chad Barton's F1X 444ci makes well over 1200whp through 3.5" piping (two Tial 50mm BOVs).

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Old 08-08-2014, 04:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by DSteck
FWIW, Chad Barton's F1X 444ci makes well over 1200whp through 3.5" piping (two Tial 50mm BOVs).
WORD
Old 08-08-2014, 05:10 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Smoove
Thanks for the tech tip.

Are you referring to something caused by throttle lift off, or compressor surge at WOT?

Bought blower from well known forum member here with a 3" outlet, I believe it's 3 inch anyways. I have 2 tial 50bovs and a jgs 60 wastegate as well on the compressor side to control boost.
Originally Posted by DSteck
FWIW, Chad Barton's F1X 444ci makes well over 1200whp through 3.5" piping (two Tial 50mm BOVs).
Not saying it WON'T make power, just stating that the outlet size of the compressor housing is designed to be that size for a reason. (In relation to the inlet size, impeller CFM, etc) Any reduction in that outlet DRASTICALLY changes the entire compressor map.

The #1 thing to do actually would be to go UP in size right at the outlet. And corvettes are super easy to make 4" or 3.5" intercooler tubing for if you are already doing a custom intercooler and mounting.

If your already doing a huge build, and lots of custom work, why keep the restrictive 3" tubing? Thats like having a huge fuel pump in the back, and stock lines.

If you have the car apart and the time to do it, it would be a good idea to change it. (If you had something like a F-1A, it wouldn't be much of an issue, that blower is pretty much done with CFM about the same time the tubing would be.)

A bunch of people wonder why they break F-1X's and other larger blowers, though a lot of times its simple stuff that causes big issues. Wrong gear/pulley combos causing overspinning of blower, or because of the compressor surge they are inducing by having restrictions placed right at the outlet of the blower, not having enough bypass valve air, or over-spinning the blower because of a restriction on the outlet side, poor intercooler, etc.

Its the little differences that make HUGE HP differences at that power level.

Example: Two identical cars, with F-1X's, spinning blowers to the same rpm... lets say MAX. One car makes 1350 rwhp, the other makes 1575 rwhp. With the only difference being the intercooler tubing, and intercooler. Usually the first thing the person making 1350 rwhp sees is they are making less boost, and less HP. And the FIRST thing they do, is put a smaller pulley on it. Then what happens?..... BOOM goes the blower.

Not saying thats the only way to break stuff, just stating that reducing the outlet tubing is never a good idea, (same with putting a 90deg turn right at the outlet)

In the end, is it the end of the world, NOPE.
But is it worth the change, YES.

Is this going to be an awesome build, DOUBLE YES!
Old 08-09-2014, 01:38 AM
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nice build!


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