CI GS

Anyone know what the normal IAT range is for a typical centri setup at ~12psi without meth?

BTW: Since I can't seem to find anything else to add to this blower, and since it seems that adding a single meth nozzle in front of the TB doesn't do that much for IATs but more by way of adding octane, I'm thinking of sending the blower lid to NX and get them to throw one of their multiport systems on it and spray some N20 and race gas straight at the back of the intake valve. Or maybe I'll see if they can do me a custom N20/meth injection system and start working on a forged 416 in the new year.

schpenxel

You might as well go ahead and order a new motor and start over with a real blower. It's the only sensible thing to do

CI GS

I figured you would say something like that!
Tell you what, I'll get on that right away, IF you promise to take a working vacation in the Caribbean to help me get it dialed in!how about that?
The old Vette sure scoots pretty good now, though. Must be that black gloved dude that helped me get it sorted?
All the best wishes for a happy Christmas, old buddy!

schpenxel

Sounds like a plan to me!

Good luck with it--sooner or later I'll get the significant other talked into going down there to have a look!

Hope you have a good Christmas as well

CI GS

Just wanted to let you guys with a Heartbeat blower know that I think I may have found a manual tensioner that works on our setups, without interfering with the HX lines like the Comp tensioner does. I'll install it this weekend and see how it works and report back on here.
It's also a hell of a lot cheaper than the Comp one and even comes with all of the hardware.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...17-1/overview/

Chiselchst

Sammy, Happy New Year!


I'm always following you and your adventures being a HB brother (in a Macho way, of course, LOL). Maybe when I retire (hopefully soon), I can move to a location where making further mods is not illegal!


In all honesty my brother, I truly do appreciate you - and the other folks - always sharing what you know and learn. If it wasn't for you guys, I'd still have a NA car. I've always wanted to do a cam and possible bump the boost (81mm?) a tad. Even been looking at race gas supply & pricing...


So thanks!


Be well!

CI GS

Hey Mitch, good to hear from you man!
No worries man. Always happy to help, in what little way I can.
BTW: to be honest, I've always thought the "Heartbeat" name sounded a little gay...
What size pulley are you running now?
With the right cam and tune (and injectors) and some HX mods, you might not even need race gas.
You could look at BOOSTane. Back when I was testing the cam and boost upgrades, I ran a can of that in my tank mixed with 93 octane, testing the 81mm/8" lower, and at 12psi and 14* of timing and I had zero KR, even when it went lean (12.5:1 AFR!) on one pass! I think I may have posted a screen shot of the log of that on this thread actually.
Sorry, it's hard not to be a bad influence. I learnt that from Rodney, apparently.

Chiselchst

You are a bad influence!
Running a 90mm. We have "special" California Nevada Arizona fuel here (often called CNA), max octane 91. That octane booster - been looking at that for some time. MMT is the main ingredient I understand. With the low miles I drive, prolly wouldn't be an issue. But I've read where some sensors can get buggered up, etc from the orange tinged stuff it leaves behind.
But one mod leads (or requires) another, and I'm not a rich guy. In fact, trying to retire ASAP. Maybe if I moved out of state I could cut my living expenses and taxes and throw that good money into something tangible like another 200 HP, LOL. Then add Hx tank & pump, tires, clutch, etc etc etc, LOL. Better than feeding the Gov tho...


Don't drive off that rock brother...

CI GS

LOL! It's a vicious, never ending, cycle, this modification business...

CI GS

Okay, installed the ICT tensioner tonight. Works perfectly. Wanted to share a few pics in case any of you guys might decide to do this mod.
First picture is what the kit looks like, the second one shows the comparison to the stock tensioner and the last one is what it looks like installed. Took me all of a half hour to do.
Yeah, I know, the pulley is made in China. But it is quite sturdy, especially compared to the stock junk.
Check out the belt dust in the last photo. I'm going to clean that off and will test it on the weekend.

Chiselchst

Perhaps that manual belt tensioner is working so good, Sammy can't get out of the car, LOL...
If I did pulley down and this item eliminates any slippage, I'd have a good reason to install my newest addition...

CI GS

Hey Mitch, you lucky sob, where did you find that?
I wish I had something positive to report.
I haven't had chance to try the belt tensioner yet, other than idling it out of the garage to wash it last weekend. I think I may have it a bit too tight, because the squealing bearing that I had before is a little worse now. I can't figure out which one of the damn accessories or pullies is squealing like that. I tried the old hose in the ear trick, but that didn't help.
So then I decided, since it starting to rain, as my luck would have it, right after I washed the car, to put it back in the garage. Then I put the car up on the lift and pulled the transmission pan to change the filter and pan, then ran into a series of setbacks (there's a thread dedicated to that debacle on the C6 tech/performance section), and I haven't gotten back at it yet. Once I get the trans pan sorted, I'll drop it back down and take a look at the pullies to see if I can figure out which one is squealing. Or maybe it'll **** me off so badly that I'll give it something to squeal about!

CI GS

Just an update on my adventures in changing tensioners and belts. After changing belts a few times and readjusting the manual tensioner as tight as possible, I still couldn't get it to stop slipping. The most boost I could get, very briefly, was like 8-10psi, but it was fluctuating all over the place, and in some instances it dropped down to ~4 psi at over 6,000rpm!
So, I finally caved in today and put the stock spring tensioner back on it and whala, I got my boost back - sort of. It's still in the low elevens and fluctuated a little bit, so I'm convinced it's still slipping a bit, but it's way better than with the manual tensioner. I still can't believe it though, because the stock spring tensioner is really feeble. I'm going to order the ECS tensioner (the one that comes with their centri kits) and use that along with the manual tensioner and see how that works. I'll report back on here soon with how that works out.

old motorhead

Here's why a manual tensioner won't work: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...jannetty+video

The Gatorback belts that I used don't stretch as much as most belts....especially the green ones in that vid. It's important to have your full range of motion available on your tensioner. When the belt stretches past the point of the tensioner keeping it tight.....slip happens. In other words, use the shortest belt that you can pry on there.

I've heard folks say that the tensioner should be in the middle of its range of motion when you put a new belt on. IE, that's the "proper" size. That's probably fine if you're not trying to spin a supercharger fast. Nine kinds of wrong if you are.

Good luck Sammy

schpenxel

I knew tensioner moved during pulls but didn't realize it would move that much

old motorhead

I generally give the car plenty of room during a dyno run. No way I'm hanging my head over the engine to stare at a tensioner during a run. That was news to me too.

CI GS

Thanks Rodney.
There's also another YouTube video of a spring loaded tensioner on a COPO Camaro that I'm trying to find. You have to see how that thing looks on the two step!
So much for the green belts being HD! Looks like a rubber band almost.
This gives me an idea. Maybe I'll see if I can rig up a mount for my go pro and video it on a run to see what happens.
BTW: I'm starting to suspect that it slips on the crank pulley. Sounds ridiculous right? Well, hear me out: I have the IW, which is very high quality, but has a very smooth shiny surface on the pulley. So yesterday, to test my theory - here we go again, right?- I slowly unloaded some tension on the tensioner and grabbed the belt pulled on it and was surprised to see how little tension I need to unload off the belt before I could drag the belt around the crank pulley.
I then used a wrench to hold the blower pulley, which is a Griptech 3.2" and did the same thing, and it was harder to get the belt to slip like that. Now I know this is a very rudimentary way to test belt grip, but the crank pulley does have to carry all of the load of the other accessories as well. Too bad that didn't come with a finish like the Grip-tech.
I'm going to see what the ECS tensioner does for me, because that will tend to wrap the belt more around the balancer as the belt stretches under load, which should help. If that works, I owe Carson a shitload of 6 packs!

Chiselchst

Man, the (only) one I saw (previous to the two below which I just found) there wasn't nearly that much movement going on. Violent snap back at throttle close, yeah. But didn't notice that much on run up...
__________
Found these:
Light Weight



Now THIS one is CRAZY...

old motorhead

Your top vid has at least an 8 rib and maybe a 10 driving the blower. Wider belt is much less likely to stretch/slip.

Edit: and your bottom vid also appears to show a wider than 6 rib belt. It also appears to have that fine a$$ed green belt.

scottg

Dang its good to see your posts again. You even schooled me on belt size awhile back, Hope all is well with you buddy.