chevnut55

I bought a A&A kit off forum member rock'nblue 08 that should be here in a few days.
It comes with injectors and boost pump so Im all set there.
I have my own small shop restoring fabricating of classic , kit cars and bikes but technology is new to me except the ls swap I just did on my 69 camaro..although its still not tuned correct (been to the tuners shop 5 times)
So Im a bit nervous about tearing into a 2000 mile new car!

Im looking for advise or tips/tricks on installing it on my 13 g/s drysump.
Also any should do while this is off suggestions?

Im ordering oil/belt and a vortech BOV rebuild because Im getting 2 with the kit and its louder than the turbosmart that's in good condition.
What about meth kits and gauges? do it now or can it wait, I cant afford to do everything all now but if its going to be a problem later I would try to do it now.

I would love to do the headers and mid pips before its tuned but they cost too much, I found a few sets cheap but for ls2 or older c6s not sure how different they are.

How do I rebuild the BOV?
What plugs are best? I have msd wires installed (after 50 miles)
Should and how do I clean the injectors?
Also will I hurt anything driving it easy until I can get it to the tuner?

Thanks in advice for you input, this is the best place to learn about this stuff.

Streetk14

Kind of a lot of questions there, but here is what I can offer:

1) A&A install isn't too hard. Just take your time and be careful. There is some trimming and such required, but nothing major. Getting the intake dongle together can be a serious PITA if you have the larger DeWitts radiator.

2) I'd re-route the heater hoses during the install. There is a DIY somewhere on this forum. I did it during my A&A install and it's a better option compared to what's in the A&A instructions.

3) DO NOT drive the car to a tuner with the new injectors installed. You can install the blower kit and drive it around while staying out of boost, then install your new injectors when you get to the tuner's shop. That's what I did back before I did most of my own tuning. Like I said, just don't get into boost before it's tuned.

4) Meth install really isn't any easier during the A&A install. Other than having it re-tuned if meth is added later, there really isn't a reason to do it now. Meth is great if you're looking to make big power, but really isn't needed for a basic 3.8" pulley kit and stock manifolds.

5) Boost, wideband AFR and fuel pressure gauges are all a good idea. I won't build an FI car without an on-board wideband to monitor AFR. Lots of options on this.

Hope that helps

Streetk14

Here's that heater hose modification I was talking about: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1570206858-post118.html

Unreal

TR6 or TR6ix plugs will work fine. Other than that just follow the instructions. Not that hard to do.

m_LeDez

Read this before starting your car with larger injectors un-tuned.....

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...car-start.html

Congrat's on the A&A kit!

ZAKO6

Thank you for this. Mine wasn't pinched as bad but I am considering this before I fill up with coolant and start her up next week. Almost done with my install, just have to route vac lines and put booster pump in.

IMO the hardest part of the install was pinning crank. There are a few different ways. I used the magnasun blower install instructions for pinning the crank. It was easier then pulling the rack but I couldn't fit the ARP crank bolt in there. Just make sure you order the pinning kit and use a new crank bolt. The OEM one is tq 2 yield so u can't reuse. Take starter off, lock up flywheel to get it off and tighten. I used pneumatic right angle drill and the template washer to drill crank.

chevnut55

Thanks for the info guys.
I would not known about the hose or injectors or crank bolt, hope the tuner lets me change them there, probley not so he can charge me for more work.
He gave me the crank pin kit but I need to buy a pin and new bolt, great tip on not removing the rack.
I am going to start removing the front and radiator today , I should order the parts I need from A&A but waiting for the kit to get here in case I need something else.
I cant get the instructions to download, Ill need to ask the wife to try it at work.

Unreal

Pins are available at most hardware stores, or just cut a drill bit. Crank bolt is available at dealer or any good LS shop. Heck I have 2-3 new ones laying around in my garage. Ask locals if they have one.

chimazo

Keep in mind that your GS uses the LS7 crank bolt, NOT the standard LS3.

Unreal

Yep.

Another thing, I would look at doing a nice 8 rib OD balancer up front. Will prevent you having balancer issues later, and prevent any belt slip. Easy to do when the rack/etc is out compared to doing it later.

chevnut55

I got the front off and radiator out yesterday, easy took about 2 hours.
How do I work around the A/C, it will not move much because of the plastic shroud.
Will I be needing a removal tool for the balancer?
Ill check on the balancer , I am going to try the magnasun instructions that zak06 suggested so I will not need to remove the rack.

Unreal

If you need a balancer or decide on doing that I'll sell you mine cheap.

Yes the shroud needs to come off, needs to be removed either way for the s/c kit.

chevnut55

I checked on the A&A site , is it just the pulley or do I need to change out other things?
What one do you have unreal? is it sfi? pm me a price please.

I got the instructions but still confused about the oil cooler and power steering cooler, guess I will figure it out when I see it.
Installed the plugs while waiting , will start the pulley removal Monday.
Trying to decide if I should change the oil now of after its done and tuned.

Unreal

IW SFI 8 rib. You can do that now when it is off, then later it is ready to go. The outside ribs just won't be used until you do the rest. If the balance/rack/etc is coming out, or the bolt out it is a good time.

chimazo

You get rid of the shroud for the install. After radiator removal, just flip up the A/C condenser and rest it on the manifold to get it out of the way.

You will be removing both the PS cooler and the oil cooler. The lines to/from the PS cooler get connected together with a brass fitting. No good way to keep the cooler unless maybe you find a place for it and extend the lines. You can relocate the oil cooler by fabbing up some brackets, ordering brackets from ECS, or just eliminate it and the accompanying lines by using GM p/n 12577903. I can't remember if I needed the gasket (p/n 12611384).

Yes, you will need a puller for the balancer. I used a couple of big screwdrivers pushed thru the bellhousing's "windows" to keep the flexplate from turning when removing the crank bolt. Others have had success having someone in the car pressing on the brakes, or having the car in a higher gear with the e-brake on tight. The car WILL try and move unless you do one or more of these suggestions (assuming you only have the front end in the air), or have the most beastly impact wrench. I've used an impact (if you have room) and a breaker bar - either will work.

Unreal

Unless he got the dewitts radiator which I think he did, then the oil lines just goto the new radiator. PS cooler is just removed and bypassed. Super simple. Balancer comes off with a 3 jaw puller easy, rentable at any autoparts store for free or they are cheap at harbor freight/etc.

Streetk14

Just as an FYI, you'll need to completely remove the steering rack if you want to remove or swap crank pulleys. I used the Magnuson method to pin the crank on my GS, but it just gives you enough room to get the bolt in and out.

Some people might have different opinions, but I never had an issue with my stock crank pulley or 6-rib belt setup on my A&A car. I had a T-trim and a 3.4" pulley. No belt slip or other issues. I did run a Gates HD "green" belt for good measure, but I'm not sure if that really helped with the reliability.

If you're going to push the blower harder than that, I'd do a flip-drive before I went 8-rib. Just my opinion, of course. I just see so many who have belt issues with the 8-rib conversions.

Unreal

8 rib and DD IMO so you never worry about belt issues. A good damper helps no matter what. Run a OD damper so you can upsize the blower pulley. If you pull the damper might as well do the 10% OD 8 rib even if you just run a 6 rib on it for now.

I've seen a lot of stock crank pulleys come apart, both SC and just stock cars. They just don't last that long.

jon6.0

I have run a 2.87" pulley with a 6 rib and flip drive with my T trim. No belt slip.

jon6.0

ATI has an EBay store where they sell fully functional, but blemish crank pulleys. I picked up mine for less than half retail.