stephenpen

I just had an engine failure and I was thinking about putting in an 4.8 or 5.3 Iron short block.
I have a front mount PTE 7675 kit and I can get a like new 4.8 for nothing.
What all is involved in runnning a 4.8. Looks like the knock sensors are different. What else is defferent.
I was going to use my ls2 timing set, oil pan, heads and valve train.
Any info would be great.

breecher_7

Get a L33 5.3 truck engine. Aluminum block and will take a pounding. You can get L33 take outs pretty cheap if you look around. Wiseco even makes a "junk yard dog" drop in forged piston for the stock rods and bore. Add those with a set of good rod bolts and you would have a pretty reliable setup for cheap.

Iron 4.8 would be my second choice for a "on the cheap" build. The short stroke and beefy piston is what keeps them together.

stephenpen

I just sold a L33 a couple months back The 4.8 is pretty much free and its a low mile super clean motor. L33s go for good coin around here. I could buy 4 4.8s for the price of an L33. I like the idea of an Iron block just incase I get carried away in the future.
Ill look up that Junk yard Dog. Thanks man

jon6.0

Other than possibly relocating your knock sensors I think the only other thing would be swapping your crank pulley and accessories over to the 4.8 motor. I wouldn't reuse the timing chain. Just get the Katech C5R chain so you know it's good. My buddy had a 4.8 in a GTO with a LS7 cam and 7675 that made 750rwhp at something like 18psi if I remember right. Using E85 and through a 4L65E. It make crap power down low. Looked like a Supra dyno sheet, lol. With his stall it didn't matter though. That car was fast.

jon6.0

I would also get Katech rod bolts.

jon6.0

One of my fantasy builds is a LS7 block with a 4.8 crank and a big blower or turbo. That motor would scream.

chriswood

I have an lq9. Had to drill and tap embossments on the side of the block for the knock sensors. Also the ls2 oil pan has one additional bolt hole that the lq9 does not have. Other thank that it was a direct replacement.

stephenpen

Off hand anyone know what drill and tap I'll need.
I just got offered an 6.0L for $700. Lq4 motor but I'm not sure if it's a DOD motor. I don't really want to mess around with converting it. It's a 08 lq4. Anyone know if it's a DOD

stephenpen

I have a set of arp rods bolt sitting around and a nice timing set.

old motorhead

I'm pretty sure that's not a DOD motor. You'll be glad you did the 6.0L vs the 4.8. You'd really miss the cubes.

jon6.0

Depends. That 7675 might work better on the smaller cubes. I would consult the compressor map and call Jose at Forced Inductions to see what it would like best.

jon6.0

Forced Inductions

561 Mulberry rd

Hazel Green, AL 35750

1(256)-796-1230

or

1-(256)-658-5798

turbotuner20v

Is it an Lq4 or an Ly6? Lq4 is 3rd gen, Ly6 is 4th gen.

I run an Ly6 iron block in my build, really easy swap since it's a gen iv

breecher_7

LQ4 is a Gen III engine, like a LQ9 or LS1

You will need a M10x1.5 Tap for the knock sensors. (I am pretty sure)

stephenpen

Buddy never said it was an lq4. I assumed it was forgetting it could be an ly6.
I have pictures of it. If it's an ly6 it should have square port like the ls3 ?
He said it came out of an 08 so that makes me think it's an ly6.

stephenpen

It's not an ly6. 317 heads on it.

Blackonblacksls

Need a front mount cam sensor and a crank with the right reluctor wheels.

Also on an ls1 block in a newer car pass side had a boss to install knock sensor. But the driver side didn't.

Needed a different oil pressure sensor aswell. Had to grind a bit on the motor mount stands. And they no longer only bolted to one side. So mark pass and driver or you can mis install them and will wonder why your engine is sitting in an awkward *** location under the hood.

Blackonblacksls

Needed a cam sensor in the rear to act as a plug if it doesn't come with it

jon6.0

Lingenfelter has a conversion box for reluctor wheels.

breecher_7

I wouldnt recommend that. You will see delayed starting/cranking times with that box. Its a piece of crap in my opinion. You are better off changing the reluctor to a 58X if you have to. You can buy the tool to change it and a new reluctor wheel for less then that box costs.

Here is the tool.
http://www.goodson.com/Reluctor_Ring_Installation_Tool/

And a new 58x reluctor wheel is $18 from Summit....

Do it right, no stupid coverter boxes.