Anyone Ever Scavenge a TTIX Kit
06-06-2014, 11:22 PM
#21
Melting Slicks
OP, is your oil pump stock or high pressure/high volume? For a scavenge pump the Turbowerx pump seems to be the ticket from the research I've done. A spendy little sucker though.
Wouldn't your want to run a restricted feed line to a ball bearing turbo?
Wouldn't your want to run a restricted feed line to a ball bearing turbo?
06-07-2014, 01:42 AM
#23
Melting Slicks
That's why I'm curious to know if he has a different oil pump in his motor. Wouldn't that change what size restrictor you would want to use? Possibly over feeding the turbo?
06-07-2014, 02:22 AM
#24
Safety Car
5 Liter Eater mentioned in a different thread that these are journal bearing turbos. Bill did you have ball bearing style originally, and did you remove the oil restrictors for these turbos? In my discussions with George about journal vs ball bearing, he always recommends the ball bearing. Sadly they seem to run twice the price, but he believes they hold up better when you push em. I would assume less oiling issues for ball bearing since they use so little. Here's a startup vid with my oil supply, using restrictors.
06-07-2014, 08:52 AM
#25
Melting Slicks
Also, I tested and ran a scavenge pump on my C6 to validate it for the road race guys. With the close proximity of the oil level to the drain height in the pan the high G cornering is an issue. It works fine but with a few quirks that may need addressing with the oil level remaining in the lines and shutdown. Its all defendant on how you run the lines and placement of the pump etc.
06-07-2014, 09:49 AM
#26
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I run the Melling high volume high pressure pump. The issue just started and it's only at hot idle with about 20# of oil pressure. As Chris stated these are full journal bearing Turbonetics so I didn't restrict them. Although I don't know that the old ones were restricted either as I never saw any unless it was in the flange on top of the turbo but Chris' video seems to indicate their upstream somewhere and Dave says so too. So maybe they are restricted LOL. Guess I'll take a closer look at the lines.
Last edited by 5 Liter Eater; 06-07-2014 at 09:56 AM.
06-07-2014, 11:56 AM
#27
Melting Slicks
I run the Melling high volume high pressure pump. The issue just started and it's only at hot idle with about 20# of oil pressure. As Chris stated these are full journal bearing Turbonetics so I didn't restrict them. Although I don't know that the old ones were restricted either as I never saw any unless it was in the flange on top of the turbo but Chris' video seems to indicate their upstream somewhere and Dave says so too. So maybe they are restricted LOL. Guess I'll take a closer look at the lines.
06-07-2014, 12:59 PM
#28
Safety Car
Yes check at the other end of the oil feed line, coming from the oil adapter. Some little brass inserts probably in there. Interesting about the cornering road race setup, I bet that is fun with 900rwhp. 
06-08-2014, 12:10 AM
#29
Safety Car
Bill remember when we were discussing oil restrictors I mentioned I was changing mine to 90 thousands. I use Mikuni jets as restrictors. Like Phil said they are in the t block near the oil filter. The turbos we have only came with a screen filter in the feed lines.
I run the Melling high volume high pressure pump. The issue just started and it's only at hot idle with about 20# of oil pressure. As Chris stated these are full journal bearing Turbonetics so I didn't restrict them. Although I don't know that the old ones were restricted either as I never saw any unless it was in the flange on top of the turbo but Chris' video seems to indicate their upstream somewhere and Dave says so too. So maybe they are restricted LOL. Guess I'll take a closer look at the lines.
06-08-2014, 01:45 AM
#30
Le Mans Master
I love my X kit car, but I suspect the car would melt before turn three. A heads/cam Z06 is where it's at for road racing IMO. This is why I have two cars. One for street/drag (TTi X) and another for road racing (heads/cam/headers).
06-08-2014, 01:50 AM
#31
Melting Slicks
NA is definitely where it's at for road racing. Centri blower cars aren't too horrible either for HPDE. Keeping the fasteners and manifolds alive while being heat cycled on a road course is hell on a turbo car. In my Miata days the turbo guys had so many issues.
06-09-2014, 12:05 PM
#32
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
The C5 kit is different. The C6 kit has a stand off in between the block and oil pressure sender that you have to drill and tap two holes for NPT>AN fittings for the -3 oil lines to connect to for the feed like Phil was saying. I am pretty positive there were no restrictors in the AN fittings I screwed into the stand off but I'll double check.
07-09-2014, 11:42 AM
#33
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I've finished rebuilding my turbos and am pretty happy with how they came out. I saved quite a bit. Turbonetics wanted ~$1000 to rebuild both. The DIY kits were $175 each plus $150 in balancing ($500 total).
I think (like JM said) my crankcase pressure issues have always given the turbos a hard time draining. Although I have one -10 off each valve cover now and that "should" be enough, I'm not chancing ruining the turbos again. If they have to come off again they're coming off for good. So I've invested in an Exapump scavenging pump and -10 drain lines (to the tune of ~$700) which should be going in this weekend.
George @ TTI confirmed that kits shipped with BB turbos (which my old ones were) have restrictors in the -3 AN fittings that tap into the stand off for the oil pressure sender (on the C6). So I'm going to take the manifold off and confirm, because I shouldn't have restrictors in them with full journal bearing turbos and I want them to get as much oil as possible now that I'll be scavenging them.
I think (like JM said) my crankcase pressure issues have always given the turbos a hard time draining. Although I have one -10 off each valve cover now and that "should" be enough, I'm not chancing ruining the turbos again. If they have to come off again they're coming off for good. So I've invested in an Exapump scavenging pump and -10 drain lines (to the tune of ~$700) which should be going in this weekend.
George @ TTI confirmed that kits shipped with BB turbos (which my old ones were) have restrictors in the -3 AN fittings that tap into the stand off for the oil pressure sender (on the C6). So I'm going to take the manifold off and confirm, because I shouldn't have restrictors in them with full journal bearing turbos and I want them to get as much oil as possible now that I'll be scavenging them.
04-23-2015, 12:05 PM
#34
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I forgot to update this thread. So my DIY turbo rebuild ended up being a nightmare. The shop in town I had balance the wheels must have fuked them up because they howled from the get go and wore out the journal bearings in <100 miles. So I had to yank them again and ended up getting new center sections from Turbonetics which is acutally the way to go because a new center section costs just as much as sending yours to Turbonetics to be rebuilt.
Anyhoo. Since the turbos are journal and I was confident the turbos would be able to get rid of all the oil after converting to scavenging I increased the oil feed lines to -4's. I mounted an exapump up on the front cradle and ran -10's from the turbos to a -10 tee and up to the exapump and a -10 back to the old drain hole in the passenger side of the pan that the turbo used to gravity drain into (drivers side hole plugged). I've been running this way for a while and haven't had a hint of smoke out the back and when I took the turbos out when the block cracked recently, they were still in great shape, no free play in the turbine or compressor wheels and spin free. It seemed like any other time I would take them out they had gotten loose on me. Not sure whats special about my setup that it needed scavenging but I'm happy with the outcome.
Anyhoo. Since the turbos are journal and I was confident the turbos would be able to get rid of all the oil after converting to scavenging I increased the oil feed lines to -4's. I mounted an exapump up on the front cradle and ran -10's from the turbos to a -10 tee and up to the exapump and a -10 back to the old drain hole in the passenger side of the pan that the turbo used to gravity drain into (drivers side hole plugged). I've been running this way for a while and haven't had a hint of smoke out the back and when I took the turbos out when the block cracked recently, they were still in great shape, no free play in the turbine or compressor wheels and spin free. It seemed like any other time I would take them out they had gotten loose on me. Not sure whats special about my setup that it needed scavenging but I'm happy with the outcome.
04-23-2015, 12:40 PM
#35
I forgot to update this thread. So my DIY turbo rebuild ended up being a nightmare. The shop in town I had balance the wheels must have fuked them up because they howled from the get go and wore out the journal bearings in <100 miles. So I had to yank them again and ended up getting new center sections from Turbonetics which is acutally the way to go because a new center section costs just as much as sending yours to Turbonetics to be rebuilt.
Anyhoo. Since the turbos are journal and I was confident the turbos would be able to get rid of all the oil after converting to scavenging I increased the oil feed lines to -4's. I mounted an exapump up on the front cradle and ran -10's from the turbos to a -10 tee and up to the exapump and a -10 back to the old drain hole in the passenger side of the pan that the turbo used to gravity drain into (drivers side hole plugged). I've been running this way for a while and haven't had a hint of smoke out the back and when I took the turbos out when the block cracked recently, they were still in great shape, no free play in the turbine or compressor wheels and spin free. It seemed like any other time I would take them out they had gotten loose on me. Not sure whats special about my setup that it needed scavenging but I'm happy with the outcome.
Anyhoo. Since the turbos are journal and I was confident the turbos would be able to get rid of all the oil after converting to scavenging I increased the oil feed lines to -4's. I mounted an exapump up on the front cradle and ran -10's from the turbos to a -10 tee and up to the exapump and a -10 back to the old drain hole in the passenger side of the pan that the turbo used to gravity drain into (drivers side hole plugged). I've been running this way for a while and haven't had a hint of smoke out the back and when I took the turbos out when the block cracked recently, they were still in great shape, no free play in the turbine or compressor wheels and spin free. It seemed like any other time I would take them out they had gotten loose on me. Not sure whats special about my setup that it needed scavenging but I'm happy with the outcome.
I know it's after the fact for you.
But when I had my low mount turbo setup.
The builders of that pump said since the pump creates such a huge suction, anything larger than -6 was pointless..
So I took their advice and ran -6 train from turbo to pump to motor. And never had a single issue.