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I don't know you guys but I can clearly deduct from the last pics the OP posted that the bolt snapped off. The one end that goes through the swivel area of the bracket looks like its still in but the other side(bolt head and some)that goes through the pulley is MIA.
I don't know you guys but I can clearly deduct from the last pics the OP posted that the bolt snapped off. The one end that goes through the swivel area of the bracket looks like its still in but the other side(bolt head and some)that goes through the pulley is MIA.
Not sure what your looking at but the bolt head through the pulley is still there.
I have the SAME problem with belt shredding. I was told to check the pulleys. I thought it was my tensioner pulley so I tightened that with the a new belt and everything looked/ran great until I took it for a hard drive and the belt shredded again. Ironically, my belt (two of them now) looks EXACTLY like yours. I put the car on ramps and looked underneath while running the car (can't see too well) and it looks like my idler pulley might be a little loose. Has to be a pulley that is off for the belt to shear on the edge like that. My tensioner pulley also vibrates and makes a rattly noise though.. I hope it's the idler and not bearing damage.
I had to replace the bearings in the idler this past spring. You better pull that idler and check. Its either coming loose or the bearings are shot.
Main thing to keep in consideration is was it fine for a long time and all of a sudden started throwing belts? Then it's likely to be a failed part. If it has always been an issue from day one it most likely needs a realigning of the pulleys.
Main thing to keep in consideration is was it fine for a long time and all of a sudden started throwing belts? Then it's likely to be a failed part. If it has always been an issue from day one it most likely needs a realigning of the pulleys.
Feel free to call us if we can help.
Doug, I spoke with your shop last week and then I only thought I had a belt issue. You responded to my PM the other day about the alky remote if you recall.
SC was installed by your shop and only have 2500 miles since install.
Car has not seen the track and had no problems with it until this discovery.
It is a beast and I love it by the way.
After install I had surgery on the right foot so my time has been limited driving it the past two years. Now that I am better well this happened.
Exactly what I posted a while ago. Good luck and keep us updated.
Yeah you were right on with your previous assessments of my pictures.
Exactly as you stated.
Now I need to find a bolt and figure out how to remove the SC and fit the tensioner back in. Seems simple but I have no gear head skills. LOL. What a shame. My wife just laughed at me doing this.
So below is the bolt that was installed. Why would they use a threaded bolt along the bearing end? I think that is the problem. Guess I need to call Chris from ECS for a new bolt and hopefully it is not like the one that was originally installed.
Yeah you were right on with your previous assessments of my pictures.
Exactly as you stated.
Now I need to find a bolt and figure out how to remove the SC and fit the tensioner back in. Seems simple but I have no gear head skills. LOL. What a shame. My wife just laughed at me doing this.
It wasn't hard to spot it since you posted very clear pics. Now, like Unread said, go to a hardware store and ensure you get a new bolt with the same lenght, pitch, thread and most importantly....the highest grade you can get! The bolt that snapped off was most likely a grade 8 and it appears that it broke due to stress or simply manufacturer defect. ACE would be my choice to look for it.
I will check out home depot and see if they have the bolt. Apparently it is the correct bolt for the SC; a source said they have been using the same one since the C5.
I am not sure if anything looks weird on the bushing/bearing.
Did you figure out the root cause on yours? Mine did the same thing yesterday it looks like. Same bolt is broke in the same place. I'm not a fan of using fully threaded bolts, but I would guess there is a reason they used one there.
Found one at Lowe's but it isn't threaded the whole way (which I prefer, if it'll work), so I will have to see if there are enough threads for it to work OK. May take another washer or something to make it work out.
I haven't figured out whether something came loose and then the bolt got bent when the belt came off, or if the bolt got bent another way and that caused the belt to come off. My complete and total guess is by using a longer belt than what comes with the kit, once the belt stretched I may have been out of adjustment on the sprung tensioner. Then belt comes off, somewhere along the way bending this bolt.. then I finished it off trying to get it apart.
edit: Another thought.. my balancer shredded itself after my first startup, and the belt ended up riding on the outer lip of the balancer, which pulled it ridiculously tight. It's possible that this bolt was bent then or something, and lasted OK until now.
I looked at the belt a day or two ago and it looked OK, but I did notice the spring loaded tensioner getting pretty far through it's travel.. but I didn't think to check and make sure the manual tensioner was doing OK. Guess I'll go back to trying to get the ECS supplied belt on and keep the longer one as a spare for roadside repair if ever necessary
I ended up having to loosen the alternator last time I actually managed to get the ECS supplied one on. I believe it came with an 895.. I was using a 900
I dont see the point on using a full threaded bolt if the pulley doesnt have threads in the inside. In my opinion the threads makes it weaker since the bolt has less of a thickness (mass) in the pulley area.
I dont see the point on using a full threaded bolt if the pulley doesnt have threads in the inside. In my opinion the threads makes it weaker since the bolt has less of a thickness (mass) in the pulley area.
The tensioner bracket itself (not the main supercharger bracket.. just the thing that has the place for a 1/2" ratchet to attach IS threaded at both places where bolts go through... so you need a bolt with enough threads to handle that. One hole is for a bolt that acts as a fulcrum for that bracket (so it is obviously threaded..), but the other hole is threaded too. It has an idler on one side (towards front of car) and a nut/washer on the other side (towards rear of car)
I guess the idea is that way you can not over tighten the bolt holding the pulley itself on, but CAN tighten the nut holding the manual tensioner still a lot if you want to.
Man I wish I had taken a picture. I'll get one though.
07-09-2014, 12:58 PM
