Unreal

I have RSI rails.

playtoy

This is what I did to mine. Ended up removing 1/2" off the rail so I would have plenty of clearance.

turbotuner20v

I actually decided to do the same, I'd like a little more clearance

turbotuner20v

It bugged me to use the submerged rubber hose so I went back and figured out a way to get the plastic tube to work... took a few messed up tubes to get it right.

Heated and expanded the tube in stages using some sockets






Cut the original pump wires and installed the quick connect








I also decided to have the driver side fuel rail machined down to fit with more space

turbotuner20v

I'm getting ready to reinstall the trans and measured the clearance between throw out bearing face and pressure plate fingers. It's ~.250". This is on the larger end (usually target ~.125-.200"), but after having issues with not enough space on my old McLeod I think I'm going to run it as is without using the .055" tick performance shim.

Blackonblacksls

The hell with that. Could end up trashing your Trans from not getting full disengagement on the clutch.

turbotuner20v

.055 is pretty damn small... centerforce says it shouldn't need a shim. I'll remeasure tomorrow with my better ruler that goes down to 1/64 increments to see exactly where it's at

Blackonblacksls

Just seems strange to install it out of spec after going through all the trouble of measuring.

Didn't really give the actual numbers a hard look. I have had something like an 8th of an inch be the difference between a clutch that slipped under wot. And the same clutch handling the motor and an extra 250 or so of nitrous.

With that being said. I absolutely hate corvette clutches and all the drama associated with them.

turbotuner20v

As far as I know, the only recommended numbers come from Tick, and I'm not sure how they made that determination.

The clutch specs say it has .400" between 'new' and 'worn', so to me that means that it will eat through the .250" gap over time as the clutch wears (and then some?)

I guess it boils down to going with the clutch manufactures recommendation or the shim makers recommendation

The clutch specs say it needs .300" travel to release, so that means the oem slave cylinder would need to actuate ~.550" to fully disengage the clutch.

turbotuner20v

From fully compressed to almost at the stop, the oem throw out bearing has ~.750" of travel. I don't know if the stock master cylinder and pedal stroke can move it that full distance though. It would only need .550" to fully disengage. Anybody know the oem slave cylinder stroke distance?

I'm leaning towards using the .055 tick shim now to make sure the clutch will fully disengage

5 Liter Eater

fifty thousanths is a lot. Having said that I've never measured any clutch I put in, so I'll go away now.

turbotuner20v

Haha, yea, I guess it just looks small compared to the other 2 shims in the tick kit, plus my McLeod was off -.0625" and didn't seem to slip (though it was enough to melt slave cylinders)

My McLeod preload issues have me super paranoid about clutches now...

I installed the .055" shim and measured with more precise instruments and it looks like my gap is ~0.1825", so I'm just going to go with that

b16gsr

looking good my friend, getting closer

turbotuner20v

I'm impressed by anyone who can install the fuel tanks blind with the driveline in place... even with the trans out it took a few tries to get the internal tube connections seated right.

I'm putting the driveline back in tomorrow and should fire it up Tuesday.

schpenxel

I've done it.. Many 4 letter words were said and one fit of throwing things ensued. I'm pretty sure I could have dropped the drivetrain faster, although I think I could do it quicker a second time if I ever have to.

Good luck with the start up!

inspector12

Yeah I'll second that. I like to think I pretty decent wrench turner, but that job had me thinking otherwise lol! But we got it definatly a pain in the ***! Glad you got it Jeff. Looking good!

ZO6er

looks good.

turbotuner20v

Installed the trans... it's always entertaining to have my wife try to push the cart forward while I line up the input shaft, lol. She knows an impressive amount of technical info about cars after all the times I've needed a second set of hands.



Really happy with how the fuel line and rails turned out. Everything including the flex fuel sensor are hidden pretty well. All I need to do is reinstall the inlet and outlet charge pipe.

inspector12

getting close!!

lt1z

Looks good!