What's needed to drop a walbro 450 into the stock fuel bucket?
09-13-2016, 09:47 PM
#101
Burning Brakes
I'm honestly shocked by the amount of people scared to cut the bottom of the bucket out. Trust me after doing this job several times... when you get to the point of having the fuel bucket in your hand, cutting a hole in the car itself seems reasonable after going through all of that.
The tank sucks to drop, getting the bucket out of the tank is worse..., getting the pump in the bucket is pretty simple, getting it all back in the tank and hooked up correctly is another nightmare, and then you get to put it all back into the car....
Cutting the bucket is easy.
The tank sucks to drop, getting the bucket out of the tank is worse..., getting the pump in the bucket is pretty simple, getting it all back in the tank and hooked up correctly is another nightmare, and then you get to put it all back into the car....
Cutting the bucket is easy.
09-14-2016, 12:31 AM
#103
Also here's a really goofy video, but very informative on how to drop the tank. he does the pass side, but the drivers is pretty much identical
Last edited by SlowBusa08; 09-14-2016 at 12:34 AM.
09-14-2016, 08:17 AM
#105
Race Director
Member Since: May 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
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St. Jude Donor '15
You can't get to the fuel pump cutting the trunk anyways. There's way too much in the way
Just drop the tank, there's no way around it
Just drop the tank, there's no way around it
09-14-2016, 10:34 AM
#106
Got mine in the other day. Used the Racetronix harnesses (worth the money for sure). Ran the harness through the driver rocker panel. Mounted the relay near the filler neck. Used the ground point already present for the strap that goes to the filler neck for the relay.
It runs quiet. Steady fuel pressure but a little higher than "normal". Since we are tuning the car not to worried about that. I put six holes 1/2" diameter into the bottom and sides of the basket.
Noticed the new pump module from GM (19302042) was larger than the original one we took out (the pump itself). Had a similar size and shape to the 450. Not sure what the actual output was supposed to be. Maybe it was a significant increase? Maybe somebody knows for sure. If it was the same output that would have been nice to know. Our original module was cracked at the top. Apparently a common issue.
So far, so good. Thanks.
It runs quiet. Steady fuel pressure but a little higher than "normal". Since we are tuning the car not to worried about that. I put six holes 1/2" diameter into the bottom and sides of the basket.
Noticed the new pump module from GM (19302042) was larger than the original one we took out (the pump itself). Had a similar size and shape to the 450. Not sure what the actual output was supposed to be. Maybe it was a significant increase? Maybe somebody knows for sure. If it was the same output that would have been nice to know. Our original module was cracked at the top. Apparently a common issue.
So far, so good. Thanks.
09-16-2016, 10:00 AM
#107
Melting Slicks
Does it have the vac nipple or whatever that helps to prime the fuel system? I don't have any issues cutting the bucket but ive heard without it you can have starting issues?
09-16-2016, 10:44 AM
#108
No, there is not a provision for the jet pump.
The way i understand it there is no check valve in the fuel pump and there was in the factory pump. That would be the reason to possibly encounter a longer than normal crank time due to fuel rail bleed down. Somebody can correct me if I got that wrong.
I was prepared to put a check valve in the fuel pipe if it needed it. However it primes up pretty quick and turned out to not be an issue.
The way i understand it there is no check valve in the fuel pump and there was in the factory pump. That would be the reason to possibly encounter a longer than normal crank time due to fuel rail bleed down. Somebody can correct me if I got that wrong.
I was prepared to put a check valve in the fuel pipe if it needed it. However it primes up pretty quick and turned out to not be an issue.
12-18-2016, 11:08 PM
#109
Burning Brakes
Wow my head hurts after reading this thread and others. How in the world does no one offer a nice pump kit for our cars yet? Every time I read about this install I'm totally turned away from doing the swap. It seems like everyone does it quite differently and some guys run into issues. There also seems to be unanswered questions related to siphoning, start up pressure or lack thereof and wot pressure. A nice agreed upon method would be SO nice.
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12-21-2016, 01:10 AM
#110
Instructor
Wow my head hurts after reading this thread and others. How in the world does no one offer a nice pump kit for our cars yet? Every time I read about this install I'm totally turned away from doing the swap. It seems like everyone does it quite differently and some guys run into issues. There also seems to be unanswered questions related to siphoning, start up pressure or lack thereof and wot pressure. A nice agreed upon method would be SO nice.
I am currently at the crossroads of which way to modify my bucket for the Walbro F90000267. I plan on running an Aeromotive 13101 regulator with a return line but unsure wether to just tap into the top of the tank for that or if there is another method out there. My questions for anyone who may know are..
#1 Do I need to block off/modify the driverside regulator if I am planning to run an external regulator?
#2 Any alternative methods to run a return line back into either driver/pass tanks?
#3 What is the best (agreed)way to modify the bucket for the new pump that is installed lower in the bucket? (stainless pop rivets as apposed to screws..?)
#4 Would someone link any and all threads they found to be useful for running this pump?
12-21-2016, 09:51 AM
#111
Melting Slicks
I'll be dropping the tank in the next week and dropping in a F90000267. Rumor has it if you use the stock fuel sock there is no cutting involved. Wire the pump, drop it in and go. I will be making a build thread and will keep everyone updated
12-24-2016, 11:58 PM
#112
Burning Brakes
Please make a thread to help us out! So much conflicting info. I want to keep the install as simple as possible.
12-24-2016, 11:59 PM
#113
Burning Brakes
Agreed.. I am currently at the crossroads of which way to modify my bucket for the Walbro F90000267. I plan on running an Aeromotive 13101 regulator with a return line but unsure wether to just tap into the top of the tank for that or if there is another method out there.
My questions for anyone who may know are..
#1 Do I need to block off/modify the driverside regulator if I am planning to run an external regulator?
#2 Any alternative methods to run a return line back into either driver/pass tanks?
#3 What is the best (agreed)way to modify the bucket for the new pump that is installed lower in the bucket? (stainless pop rivets as apposed to screws..?)
#4 Would someone link any and all threads they found to be useful for running this pump?
I am currently at the crossroads of which way to modify my bucket for the Walbro F90000267. I plan on running an Aeromotive 13101 regulator with a return line but unsure wether to just tap into the top of the tank for that or if there is another method out there.My questions for anyone who may know are..
#1 Do I need to block off/modify the driverside regulator if I am planning to run an external regulator?
#2 Any alternative methods to run a return line back into either driver/pass tanks?
#3 What is the best (agreed)way to modify the bucket for the new pump that is installed lower in the bucket? (stainless pop rivets as apposed to screws..?)
#4 Would someone link any and all threads they found to be useful for running this pump?
Why are u running a return line? I haven't figured out why some people do yet most don't? Why would u of it isn't necessary?
12-25-2016, 01:35 AM
#115
Burning Brakes
I heard they made one but I couldn't find it last time I looked. This is awesome but it's only 260lph. I don't think that's going to cut it for me. It's says it'll support 650rwhp. I won't be far from that NA and want to leave room for spray. I wonder what they recommend if u need more. BAP maybe?
12-25-2016, 01:44 AM
#116
Racer
I heard they made one but I couldn't find it last time I looked. This is awesome but it's only 260lph. I don't think that's going to cut it for me. It's says it'll support 650rwhp. I won't be far from that NA and want to leave room for spray. I wonder what they recommend if u need more. BAP maybe?
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12-25-2016, 02:05 AM
#117
Burning Brakes
01-12-2017, 10:04 PM
#118
Burning Brakes
Did you get it installed?
01-15-2017, 11:32 AM
#120
Walbro doesn't manufacture a direct-fit HP pump for the C5/C6 top-loaded modules. NONE of their 400LPH+ HP pumps have the brass fitting which supplies the module's integral siphon jet. This jet is used to fill the bucket regardless of the tank level so that the pump stays submerged under cornering / acceleration.
The Walbro TU476-1 Z06 module is equipped with the highest output pump Walbro offers for this application: http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...U476-1&eq=&Tp=
Installing a Walbro F90000267 or F90000274 pump will disable the siphon jet and require that modifications are made to the module to prevent fuel starvation. The single fuel equalization valve on the bottom of the module will not flow enough fuel to sustain a 400LPH+ pump under WOT.
Installing a 400LPH+ pump will overwhelm the factory regulator in the module so a pressure rise over the base 58 PSI can be expected.
The Walbro TU476-1 Z06 module is equipped with the highest output pump Walbro offers for this application: http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...U476-1&eq=&Tp=
Installing a Walbro F90000267 or F90000274 pump will disable the siphon jet and require that modifications are made to the module to prevent fuel starvation. The single fuel equalization valve on the bottom of the module will not flow enough fuel to sustain a 400LPH+ pump under WOT.
Installing a 400LPH+ pump will overwhelm the factory regulator in the module so a pressure rise over the base 58 PSI can be expected.
Last edited by injfuel; 01-15-2017 at 11:51 AM.