5 Liter Eater

Had a driveline failure at the track Saturday night. Loud bang and then it would just coast. Problem seems to be ahead of the diff and I'm leaning toward a guibo failure as I've never been inside the torque tube. I'll know today.


If it is a guibo what should I replace it with? Poly? ZR? I don't want solid.

5 Liter Eater

Just from a bit of research it looks like DSS 12mm poly couplers.

Slo-Poc

Clutch or no clutch will it roll?

5 Liter Eater

It won't roll. Put it in gear and let out the clutch and it doesn't move and I can hear a "clacking" sound with the clutch out that goes away when the pedal is pressed in.

lt1z

I would do the DSS poly couplers. I just recently rebuilt my TT with those and the RPM bearing kit along with a DSS 3.5" Alum shaft.

GAMEOVR

DSS 3.5" Aluminum Shaft and DSS 12mm Couplers in mine. Good luck with everything, and that snap ring at the back of the torque tube can be a PITA!!

Blackonblacksls

Last time I thought it was the guibos it was the Trans..

5 Liter Eater

LOL funny you should say that. It was the output shaft. Going 6060.

ajrothm

That sux Bill!

I popped a G Force mainshaft in my MN12 Trans when I still had stick Trans at the dragstrip..

TR6060 should hold a lot better...but the drag strip WILL find the weakest link...

Race cars > Dyno queens

cranky

snap ring is no problem at all with the correct tool. RPM Poly couplers are the way to go.................no problems since installing them.

Unreal

Same here. Snap ring is a bitch.

3.5" DSS alum with poly guibos. Matt@FSP seems to have the best pricing on DSS stuff.

Turbo-Geist

Bill, from the urban dictionary:

A nerd. A highly educated person (technology) with impaired social skills.



Proto makes a great set of snap ring pliers that will pull the snap ring out in less than 10 seconds.

Unreal

Pulling it out was cake, putting it back in took some effort. My snap ring pliers just didn't want to work on one that big and strong. Kept popping off. I did it, but took a few tries.

Matt @ FSP

Thanks Unreal!

The 3.5" DSS alum shaft with poly guibos is great way to go. We do a lot of the poly guibos by themselves too, but you are making some steam on your build especially with the twins there.

DSS also has a nice carbon solution that does not require guibos also.

Mike Farris

At what point do the guibos and shaft normally become a problem? I'm getting some vibration from that area and wondering how bad it could be.

5 Liter Eater

The 6060 feels like butter compared to the T56.

Matt @ FSP

Hard to say.. I have had stock cars toss guibos before, and I've had 800+ rwhp cars hold together... Really no good way to check besides listening for vibration while on dyno, besides pulling it apart. You'll know when you undo the torque tube and 2lbs of rubber dust comes out that it's time to replace!

winters97gt

And it will eliminate your ridiculously quick 1-2 shift at the track with your gearing. 60ft time should improve too with an extended clutch slip and longer first gear.

5 Liter Eater

Yea I think the gearing should help a lot in the 1/4 too. Although I can't really slip the DYAD or it hates life.