thegame

But what is the more simple set up? In example there is a very good chance I will be driving the car with the stock motor/trans with just the novi 1500, longtubes, and meth for probably 2 years or so before I can forge and swap the A6 for a built 4L65. Will having the 8 rib with that stock set up be more complicated than a 6 rib with flip drive?? Sorry for all the questions I just like to be sure about what I want and have a plan. My OCD lol

gotjuice?

I would do the direct drive with the 6 rib blower setup now. Then when you forge, Upgrade the balancer to the overdrive and 8 rib set up. Not sure if there is a need for the cog setup with you power goals. You can convert the 4 rib to a 6 rib if you think you will have any slippage on the alt or p/s.

Unreal

I've never heard of anyone running a DD without issues with the alt/PS. So run the cog or 6 rib, which means a balancer, which means might as well buy the 8 rib balancer, which means might as well buy the blower pulley.

gotjuice?

I just never ends, Always something better to purchase.
I did not have any issues with the alt or p/s on my Texas Mile runs, And that is a long time at wot in 5th gear.

Unreal

The flip drive just swaps blower slip for accessory slip. The 3 people out here all fought and still battle alternator slipping. Works fine for a few thousand miles with a fresh belt, then goes to hell. That is why I wouldn't suggest a flip drive without 6 rib/cog. I would keep it stock 6 rib for ~600rwhp. Then either go ***** out with the forged motor.

turbotuner20v

I've never had issues either... I use the Dallas performance version if it matters and use a breaker bar to set the tensioner on the alternator bracket.

Unreal

Mine is a DP version, and so is a friends. Maybe it is arizona, but if you do that, then it slips on the jack shaft. Getting the 6 rib isn't hard, but the a/c tensioner isn't good enough to prevent the 4 rib from slipping, and going extra tight just makes it worse. You get into this always fighting to adjust it between squealing and slipping.

Streetk14

The question I have is why even upgrade anything for a basic ECS 1500 blower/3.25" pulley setup?

It seems to me that these kits are reliable with a 6-rib. If a larger head unit is a future plan, then I'd deal with any accessory drive upgrades when the time comes. Seeing as how this kit has been proven for 750+ RWHP (with a cam/meth), I'm not sure if that's even necessary for this guy's power goals.

I'm a simpler-is-better kind of guy, though. I'd throw the best belt I can on the standard 6-rib setup and enjoy.

thegame

Why is explained in my first post. I basically had this same set up already and in very hot weather it would have some belt slip issues. I don't want any belt slip issues. So my question was what upgrade can I do to avoid those same issues.

winters97gt

My thoughts exactly.

Dealripper

Like others have mentioned, you will save money if you decided to go with an 8 rib from the start. Your horse power goal will probably be the determining factor. No need to keep replacing parts. ECS will get you on the right track. I currently run a 8 rib setup with DD. NeVer had any problems.