Reduced engine power help please
10-12-2014, 08:36 AM
#21
Safety Car
You weld one in. ZL1 that my friends just did fought this forever. Any big boost and the blower would suck the TB shut. 5 different TBs, etc and they finally welded in an air foil, now everything is great.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/attach...1&d=1412729676
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/attach...1&d=1412729676
10-12-2014, 05:48 PM
#22
Team Owner
ECT position. You can see the TB blade getting sucked shut.
10-12-2014, 07:36 PM
#23
Safety Car
10-16-2014, 09:27 PM
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
Just an update, I borrowed my friends NW 102 throttle body again and all the codes go away and the car runs like a dream with his throttle body. So it looks like ive got the actuator motor going out or throttle position sensor one is bad. Ugh if any vendors want to cut me a break on a Nick Williams 102mm throttle body please p.m. me a price.
12-06-2014, 05:29 PM
#25
Racer
any resolution?
After digging around a bit I decided to check the fuses under the hood. I found a fuse for the O2 sensors blown, that explains after replacing the extensions and O2 sensors why I was still getting the O2 heater codes randomly.
Next I found the ECT fuse(electronic throttle control) blown.... This is the reason for the P1682 code that shut my car down and made it not start back. I have checked for chafed wires and a short in the circuit but haven't found one yet.
MTI Racing informed me that my ECM checked out to be good and he checked the error history and made some changes to my tune to help with the reduced engine power issues. I get the ecm back Monday and will update then what I find.
Next I found the ECT fuse(electronic throttle control) blown.... This is the reason for the P1682 code that shut my car down and made it not start back. I have checked for chafed wires and a short in the circuit but haven't found one yet.
MTI Racing informed me that my ECM checked out to be good and he checked the error history and made some changes to my tune to help with the reduced engine power issues. I get the ecm back Monday and will update then what I find.
12-06-2014, 07:53 PM
#26
Racer
Thread Starter
Yes I put a new Nick Williams 102 drive by wire throttle body on the car about 2 weeks ago and so far I have had Zero troubles since. I've drove it everywhere in multiple driving conditions and have yet to have an issue. I also soldiered my throttle body extension wires and got rid of one connection. I did that just to clean up the wire harness and get rid of a future possible corrosion point.
My throttle response is even better now since the Nick Williams.
My throttle response is even better now since the Nick Williams.
Last edited by BLWN427; 12-06-2014 at 07:59 PM.
03-26-2017, 12:33 PM
#27
Supporting Vendor
I'm going to revive this thread because I have discovered flaws in GM's troubleshooting guide.
We had recently installed a good, brand name nitrous controller into a customers car. When turning on the key after the installation, the throttle body started clicking about 8-10 times within a couple seconds. Then I got codes 2119 and 2135.
I went through GM's troubleshooting steps and based on the results of the test, I'm instructed to replace the ECM. I refused to accept this answer. I unplugged the nitrous controller and the problem went away. Since the only thing we tied into that was related was the TPS sensor wiring, I plugged the controller back in, confirmed that it failed again and then cut the TPS wire. Problem cured. I then placed a diode in series with the cut wire and the problem came back. I selected the other TPS wire (the rising voltage) instead and the problem went away.
This is the second time that I've discovered an issue such as this. The other time, the throttle body motor wires were shorted. You might expect that to burn up the circuit in the TAC section of the ECM, but it just went into REP. I replaced the ECM to no avail and then ran one test that wasn't in GM's guide, which was to confirm that no wires had any continuity to any other. That proved both ECM's were good in the end.
I hope someone finds this helpful. I wish I had this info available when I was going through it!
Bret
We had recently installed a good, brand name nitrous controller into a customers car. When turning on the key after the installation, the throttle body started clicking about 8-10 times within a couple seconds. Then I got codes 2119 and 2135.
I went through GM's troubleshooting steps and based on the results of the test, I'm instructed to replace the ECM. I refused to accept this answer. I unplugged the nitrous controller and the problem went away. Since the only thing we tied into that was related was the TPS sensor wiring, I plugged the controller back in, confirmed that it failed again and then cut the TPS wire. Problem cured. I then placed a diode in series with the cut wire and the problem came back. I selected the other TPS wire (the rising voltage) instead and the problem went away.
This is the second time that I've discovered an issue such as this. The other time, the throttle body motor wires were shorted. You might expect that to burn up the circuit in the TAC section of the ECM, but it just went into REP. I replaced the ECM to no avail and then ran one test that wasn't in GM's guide, which was to confirm that no wires had any continuity to any other. That proved both ECM's were good in the end.
I hope someone finds this helpful. I wish I had this info available when I was going through it!
Bret
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Offering products from A&A Superchargers, East Coast Superchargers, Mechman Alternators, Mantic clutches, RPS clutches, Kooks Headers, Lakewood, LG, Brian Tooley Racing, Comp Cams, FAST, ARP, UPP Turbo systems, Wiseco, Callies, K1, MAST Motorsports, Haltech and many more. PM me for details.
Offering products from A&A Superchargers, East Coast Superchargers, Mechman Alternators, Mantic clutches, RPS clutches, Kooks Headers, Lakewood, LG, Brian Tooley Racing, Comp Cams, FAST, ARP, UPP Turbo systems, Wiseco, Callies, K1, MAST Motorsports, Haltech and many more. PM me for details.
03-26-2017, 01:41 PM
#28
6th Gear
Member Since: Jan 2015
Posts: 6
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I'm going to revive this thread because I have discovered flaws in GM's troubleshooting guide.
We had recently installed a good, brand name nitrous controller into a customers car. When turning on the key after the installation, the throttle body started clicking about 8-10 times within a couple seconds. Then I got codes 2119 and 2135.
I went through GM's troubleshooting steps and based on the results of the test, I'm instructed to replace the ECM. I refused to accept this answer. I unplugged the nitrous controller and the problem went away. Since the only thing we tied into that was related was the TPS sensor wiring, I plugged the controller back in, confirmed that it failed again and then cut the TPS wire. Problem cured. I then placed a diode in series with the cut wire and the problem came back. I selected the other TPS wire (the rising voltage) instead and the problem went away.
This is the second time that I've discovered an issue such as this. The other time, the throttle body motor wires were shorted. You might expect that to burn up the circuit in the TAC section of the ECM, but it just went into REP. I replaced the ECM to no avail and then ran one test that wasn't in GM's guide, which was to confirm that no wires had any continuity to any other. That proved both ECM's were good in the end.
I hope someone finds this helpful. I wish I had this info available when I was going through it!
Bret
We had recently installed a good, brand name nitrous controller into a customers car. When turning on the key after the installation, the throttle body started clicking about 8-10 times within a couple seconds. Then I got codes 2119 and 2135.
I went through GM's troubleshooting steps and based on the results of the test, I'm instructed to replace the ECM. I refused to accept this answer. I unplugged the nitrous controller and the problem went away. Since the only thing we tied into that was related was the TPS sensor wiring, I plugged the controller back in, confirmed that it failed again and then cut the TPS wire. Problem cured. I then placed a diode in series with the cut wire and the problem came back. I selected the other TPS wire (the rising voltage) instead and the problem went away.
This is the second time that I've discovered an issue such as this. The other time, the throttle body motor wires were shorted. You might expect that to burn up the circuit in the TAC section of the ECM, but it just went into REP. I replaced the ECM to no avail and then ran one test that wasn't in GM's guide, which was to confirm that no wires had any continuity to any other. That proved both ECM's were good in the end.
I hope someone finds this helpful. I wish I had this info available when I was going through it!
Bret
when "key on" immediately while attempting to flash new tune. It would flutter 8-10 seconds every time I would switch on key. We plugged in a different throttle body by merely unplugging and plugging harness and the second TB did not 'flutter". While trying to dial in idle I also went into limp mode several times.
I have had this MW102 for several years and at 700-1000+ hp levels with no problem. Your post really is an eye opener as I have already ordered a new NW 102 boosted version and should be in Monday.
Hope to be able to save some cash if there is a fix.
Can I send you a PM to ask which Nitrous controller?