McLeod RXT/RST Twin vs Mantic 9000 twin vs Monster Level 1 twin
09-30-2014, 11:40 AM
#21
yea, I sent mine in for 'inspection and repair/replacement' and it came back the exact same w/ a fresh coat of paint on the pressure plate and some bead blasting on the discs to clean them up.
I convinced them to send me a flywheel from their 'street twin' clutch for free and it worked because the flywheel was so much thinner it reduced the stack height to reasonable measurement when compared to throw out bearing face position.
I would avoid doing business with McLeod at all costs... I'd rather try to run a stock clutch
I convinced them to send me a flywheel from their 'street twin' clutch for free and it worked because the flywheel was so much thinner it reduced the stack height to reasonable measurement when compared to throw out bearing face position.
I would avoid doing business with McLeod at all costs... I'd rather try to run a stock clutch
09-30-2014, 01:06 PM
#22
Safety Car
You're lucky then. My friend is on his second one.
09-30-2014, 01:27 PM
#23
Team Owner
Like I said, not a bad clutch if you luck out, it is just up to the person buying it if they want to take a risk or deal with measuring/replacing/etc.
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CorvetteBrent (10-04-2018)
10-01-2014, 04:37 PM
#27
Team Owner
No need for it. Easy to add later if needed. I have one, but Mantics don't need them.
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CorvetteBrent (10-04-2018)
10-01-2014, 04:52 PM
#28
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Nov 2007
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Just finished installing a Mantic twin this morning. I've always had a factory clutch so I really wasn't sure what I was getting into. Peddle effort has increased slightly but its nothing I couldn't drive around all day with. So far I'm very pleased.
10-01-2014, 10:37 PM
#29
Melting Slicks
When is the new Mantic triple coming out? I may need a new clutch and I'm looking into the Centerforce Dyad or the RPS BC3, but I'd like to see this new Mantic setup and pricing before making any decisions.
10-04-2014, 07:02 PM
#30
Instructor
2 questions about the mantic 9000, i have the cerametallic version, not organic
How many miles is the recommended break in period?
Does the clutch/flywheel need to be balanced? or its pre-balanced from factory?
How many miles is the recommended break in period?
Does the clutch/flywheel need to be balanced? or its pre-balanced from factory?
10-04-2014, 10:11 PM
#32
Team Owner
And it is all prebalanced from factory.
10-04-2014, 11:16 PM
#33
Race Director
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St. Jude Donor '15
I saw some posts from doug @ ECS about the new triple, but no pricing yet. I believe he said he was told the triple would hold 1500 lb*ft..
10-05-2014, 05:20 AM
#34
Racer
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I run a McLeod RXT I love it. These are some things I learned along the way. If you get a McLeod clutch call mcleod and tell them you heard they had a small batch of out of spec clutches and you want to buy a new one from them. They are on top of it, even if you bought an older one, if you call them with the serial number they will tell you if its one of the suspect ones and replace it free.
I recommend buying one of their billet flywheels when doing the install. If you are going to use a tick master cylinder DO NOT use a McLeod throw out bearing, use a stock GM.
Good luck with your choice, you don't have to spend 2k to get a great clutch and flywheel to hold big power.
I recommend buying one of their billet flywheels when doing the install. If you are going to use a tick master cylinder DO NOT use a McLeod throw out bearing, use a stock GM.
Good luck with your choice, you don't have to spend 2k to get a great clutch and flywheel to hold big power.
Last edited by cdelgado14; 10-05-2014 at 05:56 AM.
10-05-2014, 08:15 AM
#35
Your making me nervous!i just bought the tick master...and I was about to buy my clutch(mcleod rxt)...inform me the problems!im currently at 800rwhp..and I have the lx9 katech clutch,but I'm having problems disengaging...what's best for me?return the tick?what clutch if so...?
I copied below from Ticks website, They do what they say and say what they do. And as for putting a ticks in "later" you wont be able to use their one piece line (which eliminates one of the three restrictions) without pulling trans, hence why I did it all at the same as my clutch. I was just giving my 2 cents, from someone who hits redline everyday.
GM did not want to replace transmission and driveline parts under warranty, so they designed a very weak, anemic clutch master cylinder barely capable of moving enough fluid to fully disengage the stock clutch in perfect working order. With years of wear (and/or an aftermarket clutch that requires more fluid to disengage), the inadequacy of the GM Master Cylinder becomes even more apparent.
Our Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kits are built here in the USA around Tilton 7/8” Bore Cylinders (the same used in NASCAR every Sunday) and are made adjustable so that you can tailor the amount of fluid that your system needs in order to fully disengage ANY clutch, from stock to hardcore race-only clutches. With our kit installed, you’ll notice:
•A slightly stiffer (we normally see ~15%), shorter pedal (in most cases) due to the increased cylinder bore
•A clutch pedal that is easier to modulate with a predictable, constant engagement point
•Effortless shifts at any RPM (especially high RPM), even when driving extremely aggressively
•Longer clutch & transmission life as a result of a properly-disengaging clutch
•Multiple other issues and annoyances fixed, including the infamous “crashed pedal”
Every Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit ships complete with everything needed to install, including our Unrestricted and Heat-Wrapped Stainless Braided Clutch Hydraulic Line (eliminating the need for the "drill mod"), all necessary hardware, and easy to understand instructions. Installation generally takes 90-120 minutes (minor drilling required) and adjustments can be made at any time without any tools.
10-05-2014, 09:35 AM
#36
The Tick master cylinder requires removal of the clutch assist spring. I think this makes a huge difference in its self. I had issues with the clutch pedal falling to the floor and just removed the spring and the clutch pedal worked fine again. You need to replace the spring or make sure you get the pedal to the top of its travel when bleeding, but remove the spring for driving.
10-05-2014, 06:23 PM
#37
Burning Brakes
Mantic is a great clutch, however mine has started to develop some chatter only at launch when it gets warm. I'm at around 500 miles on the clutch, so not sure what that's all about. It doesn't do it when it cold. Other than that the engagement and peddle feel is awesome.
Problem on my (GREEN) twin disc. When it gets hot, it is starting to slip.
I think the clearance is to close (fingers to bearing). It is coming out this winter, when I will decide what to do.
Just wondering if this has been a problem with the Mantics.
10-05-2014, 07:10 PM
#39
Racer
10-05-2014, 07:14 PM
#40
Instructor