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McLeod RXT/RST Twin vs Mantic 9000 twin vs Monster Level 1 twin

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Old 10-05-2014, 08:30 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by LeftLane Z06
My stock master is on it's way out. Pedal won't come all the way back up after a hard pull.
Try pulling the assist spring
Old 10-05-2014, 10:11 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Badmotorf1nger
14 lbs according to my bathroom scale
Stock flywheel weighs 24 pounds I believe. 14 pound flywheel would be crap on cammed Z. That's what's keeping me from a Mantic 9000
Old 10-06-2014, 12:07 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by LeftLane Z06
The Mantic 9000 uses a light weight fly wheel correct? A light weight fly wheel with a cam is a bad combo.
No. It is a steel flywheel and not that much lighter than stock. They are great on cammed cars.
Old 10-06-2014, 12:14 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by LeftLane Z06
Stock flywheel weighs 24 pounds I believe. 14 pound flywheel would be crap on cammed Z. That's what's keeping me from a Mantic 9000

We use them on cammed cars all the time.
Old 10-15-2014, 09:27 PM
  #45  
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Got the car back today from vette dr's, mantic 9k installed. Great job & fast service.
Getting used to the lighter flywheel combo from a dead stop, but it drives fine overall. There is a decent amount of chatter at idle, not really a deal breaker for me since Ive had lots of chattery puck clutches on other cars. But most of you say your mantics do not chatter so Im just wondering if it will work itself out?
Old 10-15-2014, 10:12 PM
  #46  
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Probably get better. Mine never did that, and never has, but friends RXT did and after 300-400 miles it went away.
Old 10-15-2014, 10:18 PM
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No chatter from mine at no point.
Old 10-22-2014, 09:30 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Badmotorf1nger
Got the car back today from vette dr's, mantic 9k installed. Great job & fast service.
Getting used to the lighter flywheel combo from a dead stop, but it drives fine overall. There is a decent amount of chatter at idle, not really a deal breaker for me since Ive had lots of chattery puck clutches on other cars. But most of you say your mantics do not chatter so Im just wondering if it will work itself out?
I still get chatter but only when pulling out on an incline, weird. I have to slip it pretty hard to get it not to do it. On level surfaces its fine.
Old 10-22-2014, 01:08 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Badmotorf1nger
Got the car back today from vette dr's, mantic 9k installed. Great job & fast service.
Getting used to the lighter flywheel combo from a dead stop, but it drives fine overall. There is a decent amount of chatter at idle, not really a deal breaker for me since Ive had lots of chattery puck clutches on other cars. But most of you say your mantics do not chatter so Im just wondering if it will work itself out?
What is the difference in taking off with the lighter clutch?
Old 10-22-2014, 08:30 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Buddy A
What is the difference in taking off with the lighter clutch?
its harder to do it smoothly, you have to rev a little higher to avoid getting a shudder. With a stock clutch & flywheel I can easily let the clutch out to the grab point, let it start rolling, then give it gas and take off smoothly. Its hard to do that on this clutch, but I knew it was gonna be like that. It should get a little better as the discs get broken in.

My other problem is my idle tune needs to be touched up. I dont know if its because Im cammed, but ill start the car & it will just die, not even letting out the clutch. I have to give it a lot of gas to keep it from dying about half the time. This doesnt help with trying to take off smoothly either. My friend is gonna touch up the tune this weekend.
Old 10-22-2014, 08:51 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Badmotorf1nger
its harder to do it smoothly, you have to rev a little higher to avoid getting a shudder. With a stock clutch & flywheel I can easily let the clutch out to the grab point, let it start rolling, then give it gas and take off smoothly. Its hard to do that on this clutch, but I knew it was gonna be like that. It should get a little better as the discs get broken in.

My other problem is my idle tune needs to be touched up. I dont know if its because Im cammed, but ill start the car & it will just die, not even letting out the clutch. I have to give it a lot of gas to keep it from dying about half the time. This doesnt help with trying to take off smoothly either. My friend is gonna touch up the tune this weekend.

The tuning will help with the take off. Most people who have reported a shudder to us also say it went away after some mileage is put on. More then just the initial break in 500 miles. Hope that helps.
Old 10-24-2014, 12:10 PM
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Just wondering why to use the GM throwout bearing on the RXT with Tick master? I had mine done by a shop with a new GM slave, but I don't know which TOB they used. Should I expect failure in another few thousand miles?
Old 10-27-2014, 12:11 PM
  #53  
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update, my friend adjusted the tune under 1200 RPMs.. I can now do 3 point turns & get in and out of parking spots without stalling 20 times!
He played with something on the air table.

Got 300 miles on the clutch, cant wait to hit 500 so I can enjoy the car to the fullest.

Last edited by Badmotorf1nger; 10-27-2014 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 10-27-2014, 01:44 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Badmotorf1nger
update, my friend adjusted the tune under 1200 RPMs.. I can now do 3 point turns & get in and out of parking spots without stalling 20 times!
He played with something on the air table.

Got 300 miles on the clutch, cant wait to hit 500 so I can enjoy the car to the fullest.
Willing to share the before/after? Just curious to see what was changed. I'm trying to learn
Old 10-27-2014, 02:32 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
Willing to share the before/after? Just curious to see what was changed. I'm trying to learn
sorry its top secret
lol j/k

yeah let me ask him if he can explain exactly it better , i dont have the tuning software myself to screen shot it
Old 10-27-2014, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Badmotorf1nger
sorry its top secret
lol j/k

yeah let me ask him if he can explain exactly it better , i dont have the tuning software myself to screen shot it
Gotcha.. I was thinking the actual .hpt file, but I'll take whatever I can get
Old 10-27-2014, 07:25 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Badmotorf1nger
update, my friend adjusted the tune under 1200 RPMs.. I can now do 3 point turns & get in and out of parking spots without stalling 20 times!
He played with something on the air table.

Got 300 miles on the clutch, cant wait to hit 500 so I can enjoy the car to the fullest.
So does it drive close to stock now?

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Old 10-27-2014, 07:38 PM
  #58  
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Probably just tweaked the base idle airflow table.

If your tuner can't do that to get it to run correctly, find a new tuner.
Old 10-28-2014, 08:56 AM
  #59  
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I only have 400 miles on my new Mantic 9000 and like it A LOT. I had a RXT in my 03 Cobra and was not very happy with the engagement feel and the amount of chatter is had in traffic. I would recommend the Mantic to anyone that likes a stock like feel but makes good power.
Old 11-09-2014, 08:31 PM
  #60  
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I hit the 500 mile mark today, so I decided to open it up a bit, shift at 4.5k now instead of 3k. I also revved it up to 6k a few times without shifting and just let it coast back down. When I rev over 4k rpms with more than 1/4 throttle the shifter vibrates/rattles like crazy. It does this in neutral too, but not as bad. I have an OEM shifter, never had this problem before the clutch.

I took apart the center console to see if I could find any obvious culprits.. looks like the shifter isolator is ripped/cut off completely so Its no attached to the shift lever anymore. Is this piece supposed to keep the shifter from vibrating? Everything else looked ok as far as I could tell.










Last edited by Badmotorf1nger; 11-10-2014 at 08:05 AM.
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