C6 Auto: 4L60 vs 4L80.. Which stronger with FI
#21
Le Mans Master
6l80 are junk... Plain and simple... 60 or 80 will be light years more reliable. We have completed NUMEROUS 60/80 swaps. Give us a call if you are interested in having one done.
#22
Team Owner
Using "fast list" is like picking outliers to support your data. I think it is beyond silly. I'm tired of hearing how stock z06s run 10s, yet every time I goto a track they are running high 11s/12s. People need to get out to the track and worry about what they run, and not use internet times from MIR on a perfect day on a perfect launch.
For 600rwhp, I would just do a blown ls3/6l80. If you want more than that, then look at doing a swap to the 4L60/80. I wouldn't start with an ls2 vette unless cost was a concern, and 06+ are 6l80 anyways so only way to avoid that is 05 which is a junk year.
For 600rwhp, I would just do a blown ls3/6l80. If you want more than that, then look at doing a swap to the 4L60/80. I wouldn't start with an ls2 vette unless cost was a concern, and 06+ are 6l80 anyways so only way to avoid that is 05 which is a junk year.
#23
Anyways, for what the OP is looking for the 6L80 will serve him perfect for many many reliable years. No where did he say he wanted a full blown 1200rwhp car that he wants to spend
15-18k on a trans swap alone to drive once a month and drag race.
To the OP, with whatever you decide I hope you get what YOU want and within your budget and performance mods needs.
#24
Race Director
I'm not going to argue about any of the drag racing stats. The guys who post times on those fast lists spend a lot of time getting where they are in most cases. And for the 2005 models, those guys (like you, I'm guessing) have been working on those times for close to 10 years now. I'd expect the earlier cars to have better fast times just because of that.
But really, this is about building a street car. Like the OP said: a fun STREET RELIABLE BUILD . He's not looking to build a strip car. I'd rather have the extra displacement and gears in that situation. Not to mention the improved interior parts, steering changes, etc. Like I said before, the newer C6s are just nicer cars to drive and are less likely to be problematic.
But really, this is about building a street car. Like the OP said: a fun STREET RELIABLE BUILD . He's not looking to build a strip car. I'd rather have the extra displacement and gears in that situation. Not to mention the improved interior parts, steering changes, etc. Like I said before, the newer C6s are just nicer cars to drive and are less likely to be problematic.
#26
Race Director
6L80 are not junk. You just have to know how to tune them for each car and specific mods. If you don't want to take the time to properly tune them they will burn up. There are plenty of people running built 6L80's in the 10's and 9's. Just because you don't want to take the time to tune it doesn't mean it's junk. That's like saying that fully built motor blew and it's junk, oh wait I didn't take the time to properly tune it.
Anyways, for what the OP is looking for the 6L80 will serve him perfect for many many reliable years. No where did he say he wanted a full blown 1200rwhp car that he wants to spend
15-18k on a trans swap alone to drive once a month and drag race.
To the OP, with whatever you decide I hope you get what YOU want and within your budget and performance mods needs.
Anyways, for what the OP is looking for the 6L80 will serve him perfect for many many reliable years. No where did he say he wanted a full blown 1200rwhp car that he wants to spend
15-18k on a trans swap alone to drive once a month and drag race.
To the OP, with whatever you decide I hope you get what YOU want and within your budget and performance mods needs.
#27
Race Director
Using "fast list" is like picking outliers to support your data. I think it is beyond silly. I'm tired of hearing how stock z06s run 10s, yet every time I goto a track they are running high 11s/12s. People need to get out to the track and worry about what they run, and not use internet times from MIR on a perfect day on a perfect launch.
For 600rwhp, I would just do a blown ls3/6l80. If you want more than that, then look at doing a swap to the 4L60/80. I wouldn't start with an ls2 vette unless cost was a concern, and 06+ are 6l80 anyways so only way to avoid that is 05 which is a junk year.
For 600rwhp, I would just do a blown ls3/6l80. If you want more than that, then look at doing a swap to the 4L60/80. I wouldn't start with an ls2 vette unless cost was a concern, and 06+ are 6l80 anyways so only way to avoid that is 05 which is a junk year.
#28
Team Owner
Nope, don't have the cage/chute/fire/etc to run it here, and closest track that would let me run is 500+ miles away. Focusing on 1/2 mile events. Got 2 coming up.
#29
Race Director
is it timed and with splits, whats your expected mph
#30
Team Owner
Yes, side by side, trap speed only, no splits or anything else. Just going for MPH at end of 1/2 mile. ~170-180? No idea really.
#31
Race Director
Interesting, do you go wide open from starting line dead stop, I have no Idea about the gains from 1/4 to 1/2 or the mph gain on the backhalf, like 1/8 to 1/4 is usually 30mph on the back half so the back half is a 1/4 on the half, any idea
#32
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Mar 2007
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At the events I run at, we usually do a 50 MPH roll. Some guys run at a different start speed or go from a dig to try to go for a higher trap speed. It's all for fun, really. It's a little less than a 1/2 mile from cone to cone at the airstrip we use in CA, so it's not something that's set like a 1/4 mile track. It's a hell of a lot of fun though, and really shows which car is faster vs. drag racing where you get to see which driver is faster in most cases.
Here's a run from one of the events I ran at last year with my old car. Was running about 165 mph at this event:
Here's a run from one of the events I ran at last year with my old car. Was running about 165 mph at this event:
Last edited by Streetk14; 10-27-2014 at 11:22 PM.
#33
Melting Slicks
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Oops... double post.
But yeah, I do think there are enough improvements to warrant paying a few bucks more for an LS3 car. The steering improvements being one. I like to take turns in my cars, so it's something I value. Don't believe me, read what C&D thought about it: http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...ette-road-test
For the interior stuff, don't even get me started on the Pillsbury Doughboy steering wheel or horrid gray interior trim pieces. There's also the unsightly OnStar antenna, the differential that needs to be replaced to handle any kind of power, no NPP option, and that stupid "shift to reverse" thing on 6MT cars. And since I mentioned manual transmissions, the TR6060 is a much nicer shifting trans in my experience. Lots of little things that just make for a nicer car.
But yeah, I do think there are enough improvements to warrant paying a few bucks more for an LS3 car. The steering improvements being one. I like to take turns in my cars, so it's something I value. Don't believe me, read what C&D thought about it: http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...ette-road-test
For the interior stuff, don't even get me started on the Pillsbury Doughboy steering wheel or horrid gray interior trim pieces. There's also the unsightly OnStar antenna, the differential that needs to be replaced to handle any kind of power, no NPP option, and that stupid "shift to reverse" thing on 6MT cars. And since I mentioned manual transmissions, the TR6060 is a much nicer shifting trans in my experience. Lots of little things that just make for a nicer car.
Last edited by Streetk14; 10-27-2014 at 11:19 PM.
#34
Race Director
Oops... double post.
But yeah, I do think there are enough improvements to warrant paying a few bucks more for an LS3 car. The steering improvements being one. I like to take turns in my cars, so it's something I value. Don't believe me, read what C&D thought about it: http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...ette-road-test
For the interior stuff, don't even get me started on the Pillsbury Doughboy steering wheel or horrid gray interior trim pieces. There's also the unsightly OnStar antenna, the differential that needs to be replaced to handle any kind of power, no NPP option, and that stupid "shift to reverse" thing on 6MT cars. And since I mentioned manual transmissions, the TR6060 is a much nicer shifting trans in my experience. Lots of little things that just make for a nicer car.
But yeah, I do think there are enough improvements to warrant paying a few bucks more for an LS3 car. The steering improvements being one. I like to take turns in my cars, so it's something I value. Don't believe me, read what C&D thought about it: http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...ette-road-test
For the interior stuff, don't even get me started on the Pillsbury Doughboy steering wheel or horrid gray interior trim pieces. There's also the unsightly OnStar antenna, the differential that needs to be replaced to handle any kind of power, no NPP option, and that stupid "shift to reverse" thing on 6MT cars. And since I mentioned manual transmissions, the TR6060 is a much nicer shifting trans in my experience. Lots of little things that just make for a nicer car.
#35
Melting Slicks
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yes i like the doughboy wheel, and the xm antenna its very easy to tell its an 05 and it must cut threw the air faster, as the 05's seem to be faster the rear internals are the same, the gears in the trans are different but not on the automatic, and of course the LMB paint the silver trim can be changed and the wheel, that's just all cosmetic and preference of your own taste and doesn't designate junk
Just looking at KBB values for similarly optioned cars with the same mileage, the price difference isn't much between an '05 and an '08. $25-26k for the 2005 vs. $28-29k for the 2008. Once you do the diff upgrade in the '05, it's likely a wash. I'd rather have all the extras that go with the '08.
You can disagree if you'd like.... I'm just being rational about it as a guy who owns neither an '05 or an '08.
#36
Race Director
Nope.... not junk. But if starting from scratch C6 shopping, it wouldn't be my first choice. Every thing that you want or need to change = $$$.
Just looking at KBB values for similarly optioned cars with the same mileage, the price difference isn't much between an '05 and an '08. $25-26k for the 2005 vs. $28-29k for the 2008. Once you do the diff upgrade in the '05, it's likely a wash. I'd rather have all the extras that go with the '08.
You can disagree if you'd like.... I'm just being rational about it as a guy who owns neither an '05 or an '08.
Just looking at KBB values for similarly optioned cars with the same mileage, the price difference isn't much between an '05 and an '08. $25-26k for the 2005 vs. $28-29k for the 2008. Once you do the diff upgrade in the '05, it's likely a wash. I'd rather have all the extras that go with the '08.
You can disagree if you'd like.... I'm just being rational about it as a guy who owns neither an '05 or an '08.
#37
Melting Slicks
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Something like a later C6 or BMW 3-series still holds it's value very well, but it isn't like it was when things were better in our country. Unfortunately....