schpenxel

Will do.. I think on the 6 pin connector you can take most of the wires out of it because they aren't used.. although I guess you could also just leave them in the connector (just not connected to anything) to avoid having to worry about them touching anything on accident

I'm probably just going to order a big pack of weather and metri pack connectors so I have plenty on hand. I always order them one or two at a time and always wish I had more.

DOUG @ ECS

Dual nozzle kits have the check valve at the filter and the std single kits have them at the nozzle.

Also I personally mount everything except the LED hidden away and out of easy reach simply so it does not get accidentally moved/changed. Meth is fuel, so you are changing your tune when you change the dial. Once it's tuned correctly it should not be changed, same as the tune in the ECM since it is now part of the equation.

Hope that helps.

schpenxel

Any suggestions on location? Glovebox is pretty well out with all the other electronics I have in there already.

Nosferatu

Bilstein B8 (the stiffer optioned ones forgot name) are what I run. They are great to me on the C6 over factory.

schpenxel

Good deal.. DRM (I think that's the name anyways?) is local to me, so I could pick up a set from them pretty easy. Actually I was suppose to already but had some torque tube troubles I had to fix first and never did go get them. Viking also has some that aren't too stupid expensive, but are adjustable too.. so those sound nice, but perhaps more than I care to mess with.

I've heard the regular Bilstein's like you mentioned are probably the cheapest good option out there.. better than factory and not too expensive

Unreal

I ran the DRMs, and now Vikings. Spend the extra $100 and get the vikings. The adjust ability is great.

schpenxel

They seem like a good option.. wouldn't surprise me if I end up with them

Have to get a torque tube input shaft issue taken care of first though. I'm so looking forward to pulling that back apart. At least it won't be freezing this cold this weekend

/sarcasm

Unreal

I would do RideTechs from ECS if I was baller, but for ~$670 or so, the Vikings are working great. Smooth for daily, stiff and handle well when needed, and nice squatty when set to drag settings.

schpenxel

Hard to beat for < $700. I'd love to spend like half that and get the same thing, but that doesn't exist, so it is what it is.

Until I win the lottery that is.

DOUG @ ECS

We mount the gain **** box above the hood latch, there's an open area there, and the PAC module behind the knee bolster.

djfury05

What are you using as a harness to breakout the IAT and relocate? Only one I seen on eBay worked for an LS1 with old 3 wire MAF and IAT females separate then combined into 5 wire female connector.

realcanuk

Racetonix makes a breakout harness.

realcanuk

I almost couldn't sleep last night trying to remember about the meth check valve thing. Today I went to the shop and looked and as Unreal said, I have the filter and check valve combined. I remembered removing the single nozzle valve, but not adding this one..

djfury05

I looked on their site and didn't see one that would work. The one they advertise are for use on 98-02' F-Bodies with the 3 wire maf and IAT separate.

schpenxel

All you need to do is buy an IAT + connector and connect it to the wires that used to be the IAT sensor on the MAF assembly.. no break out harness needed. Although I think they're on eBay if you wanted to go that way

Something like this:



(obviously I'd check this wiring diagram prior to using it.. not 100% sure it's the right one)

djfury05

Yea I thought about that too. Probably be cheaper that way since I have to get the actual sensor still. I found this pinout of the LS7 MAF, should be pins D & E that need to be re-routed to the IAT breakout.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1566267638

realcanuk

I bought so much stuff lately I got mixed up. I used this from Caspers......

http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...oducts_id=1108

djfury05

Yes another member PM'ed me that. It's going to be cheaper for me to just de-pin and extend the wires since I had to buy the sensor too. Got it all on order now.

schpenxel

Here's a list of all the METRI-PACK connector part numbers for 2 through 10 pin connectors

Pins
Male pins 12045773
Female pins 12048074

Housings/TPA's:
2 pin male 12162000
2 pin female 12052641
2 pin TPA 12052634

3 pin male 12129615
3 pin female 12110293
3 pin TPA 12052845

4 pin male 12162102
4 pin female 12162144
4 pin TPA 12047948

6 pin male 12124107
6 pin female 12052848
6 pin TPA 12052850

8 pin male 12047931
8 pin female 12047937
8 pin TPA 15324525

10 pin male 12045808
10 pin female 12065425
10 pin TPA 12124264


Seals 15324973
Cavity plugs 12059168

schpenxel

Uh oh.