schpenxel

Good call! I'll look those up. Do you remember what size by chance? Those are maybe two months old.. but they are some cheapo advance auto ones so that's probably why

That looks like a nice piece and would make this an easier install for sure

In my case I decided to just re-pin/extend the IAT wires so it will reduce the clutter. If I ever have to go back to 'stock' to sell it or something I'll just leave the IAT sensor where it's at anyways

neutron82

I had to get a few different sizes because I have pretty much all my vacuum ports capped... here is the place I got the silicone caps from http://store.034motorsport.com/catal...ilicone+nipple

schpenxel

Those look way better, thanks. I'll try to figure out what size I need and order a few soon

neutron82

they are worth it in the long run, the initial cost is higher but having to not replace them every few months on rubber caps will offset the price difference

schpenxel

And I'd rather not have the current ones disintegrate on me.. they look like they're a vacuum leak waiting to happen

schpenxel

So, what are other guys seeing intake air temp wise from the ECS kit? (in terms of degrees above ambient)

I'm seeing right around ambient now when I'm on the interstate.. I used to see maybe 5-8* higher, but I'm wondering if the sensor was reading a little higher than reality. Either that or this one is reading a little low. I tend to trust a brand new sensor + ZR1 calibration data though, but who knows.

schpenxel

Good news.. it does seem to be working as intended. I went from ~45*F IAT's to 20*F in about 2 seconds (ok, maybe 3).. so I think that's working pretty good

It will be interesting to see much the temps drop in hotter weather. Obviously it's pretty cool here today compared to how it has been

realcanuk

Good that it is still useful for safety. My point was more that it is very cool, I just don't see any advantage. I guess if the intake is off already, then its another good option. I personally wouldn't pull my intake to do it, if its doing the same job.
Always enjoy your thorough updates.... keep up the good work.

schpenxel

Thanks!

Yeah, I just preferred the way it looked honestly.. If I had a TIG welder I probably would have installed a 3/8" NPT bung on the intake tube right after the meth nozzle and called it done (I bought the bung actually but then decided to try the intake idea instead).. I thought putting it in the intake was a pretty neat idea and it looks pretty good once it's done. I had considered using the rubber grommet way and just drilling a hole in the intake tube but I don't really like the way that setup looks. I'm sure it works fine though. The intake came off pretty easy and it gave me a chance to do a little cleaning anyways (which I'm sure some of you guys are happy about! haha)

So, what's the lowest IAT reading anyone has seen (you don't count canuck since it's like -20 up there anyways!). I got down to 20*F earlier. It's about 50*F here right now.. I'm really surprised it gets THAT cold.. I thought with it being this cool already that I wouldn't really notice it as much. Guess I was wrong though

Anyone running meth want to share their IAT tables? (base + multipliers)

edit: scratch that.. I got to 14*F apparently. That was just messing around though.. not at WOT

realcanuk

Hardly driven my car. The weather has been crappy since its finished. The little driving I did, the IAT seemed to be staying pretty much around ambient, but not sure.
A full throttle dyno pull was 135 without the meth, and if I remember right about 65 with it.

FormulaLS1

Post up your results I did a dyno pull last night with ambient temps of 45-50ish meth dropped IAT to 40 and the car really loaded up on fuel wouldn't pull over 4700-4800rpm it was fine on the street so idk.

schpenxel

Too rich you think?

realcanuk

Not sure what results you are asking about. Maybe you are dumping too much meth, or the tune is just too rich up top.

schpenxel

Alright, I screwed the calibration up

I used the "regular" IAT sensor table from a ZR1 calibration

You're supposed to use the data from the IAT "2" table, which is the sensor in the manifold

I changed that and will give the new cal a try soon

I was wondering how I was getting down to or slightly under ambient without meth

(my ambient sensor reads a little high so I figured it was just that)

schpenxel

Quick update since it's been a little bit since I've updated:

IAT's make a lot more sense now that I corrected the IAT calibration info... I was wondering how I was getting down to ambient and even slightly under (without meth) lol.

The tune is getting there, slowly but surely.. I'm down to about 1-2% AFR error in PE now up to about 4000 RPM's, so I think that's pretty good. Haven't had much time to spend on it lately and have been driving another car to/from work. I don't know how much higher I can tune on the street.

I'm thinking about installing a Z06/ZR1 exhaust system.. I found a setup from someone fairly local to me for a great price. They flow quite a bit better than the factory LS2 system, are cheap, and have cats that survive on the ZR1, so I give them a better shot at surviving than factory LS2 ones (or most aftermarket ones for that matter). 20+rwhp gain on NA applications, supposedly. Now I wish I hadn't bought these replacement LS2 cats. Total waste of money, but maybe I can manage to sell them

Still thinking about it though.

Next I'm swapping over to a PLX wideband.. this Innovate Motorsports MTX-L is giving me too many problems and I really don't trust it anymore.

Then I need to open the restrictor plate up a little bit

Then at some point I need to get some time on a dyno for a few runs

Geared

coming along! nice updates.

Have you tuned cars before? Always something that has been foreign to me, but would love to learn.

schpenxel

Nope! First time for me.. Greg Banish has some good books and DVD's to get you going if you decide to try it. For me it was $500 for somebody else to do it once.. or I could just spend that much on an HP Tuners interface and learn to do it myself whenever I wanted. Once you understand what's going on it's not too bad. I was completely lost at first though, that's for sure.

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Update for today--Decided to check for boost leaks. I took the tube that connects the air filter to the supercharger off, put a thick ziplock bag over the inlet, put the tube back on and clamped it down. Then I pulled the hose off of the hobbs switch connected to the BAP and connected compressed air @ 15 psi. I could hear something hissing.. so I sprayed soapy water on all the connections. I didn't find anything major (I don't think anyways). All the major connections looked good, no bubbles.

I did find leaks around the MAF, meth nozzle and the vacuum splitter thing that the bypass valve and BAP hobbs switch connect to. I'm not sure any of these are big enough to matter, but I'm going to try to fix them.

The meth nozzle I think I can just tighten the nozzle down a little more. It's leaking the least of the three.

Some sealant on the small connections on the vacuum splitter should seal it right up.

The MAF sensor I'm not sure about though.. and it's the worst leak by far. It's tightened down and the seal looks good, so I don't know what else to do with it. Any ideas?

Arctic Vette

I know this may sound dumb but is the maf installed upside down? I had same prob when i made that mistake or replace rubber in maf or buy new maf. Could be intake portion is not sealing too. Only you can tell, im sure youll fix it bud.

schpenxel

Yeah it's right way, I think anyways.. the arrow is pointing the right way anyways, so I guess that's the right way

I'm not real impressed with the smoothness of the sealing surface on the charge tube since it's been powder coated, but no idea if that's why it's leaking or not. I could just block the whole MAF opening off and go SD and be done with it since my IAT sensor has already been relocated.

Either way, I'm not even sure if these leaks would even matter.. I just had some free time and thought I'd see if there was anything major leaking and only found these small ones. Probably worth fixing though

realcanuk

The maf looks to be the right way. Anytime you powder coat anything its best to tape off any areas that will get something attached to it. Especially if its something that has to seal well. I would just check that the seal there is good, and maybe clean the surface it mates to.