realcanuk

Well.... like they say.... once you get it running just the way you want, it is time to start all over.

To sum up quickly, I enjoy the project as much as driving the car and there was just nothing left to do on my eforce build. I got it to the point that it was a perfect, reliable daily driver in the summer but its time to try something different. At 780 RWHP, the eforce proved itself well and was very reliable.

I am not really looking to make more power, just something different. (famous last words. LOL)

I was considering turbo's, but I came across a deal on an A&A YSI kit that I just couldn't refuse. The kit is off a C5 so it will be a bit more work but nothing huge. We will fabricate the IC piping and brackets so that is no issue.

My first question for the experts. Being a C5 kit I am told I can either get a C6 bracket for the head unit, or change the water pump for an LS6 style. This also requires spacing the PS reservoir but that is no big deal. Any thoughts on this ? Anyone done it ?

What I bought is 1.5 years old so it has all the latest brackets, intercooler and updates. It was on a car for one summer.

Included...
YSI kit 8 rib with 2 pulleys
Secondary drive
Vortech Mondo blowoff valve
A&A dual fuel pump kit ( this will probably be for sale soon)
ID 1000 injectors ( my ID850s will be for sale soon)
IW 10% overdrive damper , 8 rib. (for sale also)

This is going to be a fun project being done with Seth at Federal Performance here in Montreal. Its going to be a fun year !!!!

PS... my eforce is for sale in the parts for sale section.

Unreal

Nice. If you need some pulleys I got 4-5 8 rib pulleys laying around not being used.

realcanuk

I got 2 pulleys with it. A 2.85 and 3.0. I have no clue what boost those will make but if I need bigger I will contact you for sure.

I will probably have many questions along the way too. I guess no one has input on the C5 - C6 bracket thing so I will figure it out as I go.

breecher_7

Its about time!!! Welcome to 1000whp land!!

First off, just get a 2.75"pulley from the get go, dont bother with anything else. That keeps the blower in its happy range all the time.

As far as the kit goes, I have never retrofit a C5 kit to a C6 but I cannot imagine it is that difficult.

My Advice:

Remove the Mondo BOV, and replace it with two Tial Q units with 2-3psi springs and mount them as close to the blower discharge as possible. This will vent pressure to atmosphere under vacuum and keep the intercooler temps down. They also flow enough that you will never encounter a blower "surge" issue...

Reinforce the spring tensioner. A&A offers this service but I can explain to you how to do it. The stock tensioner has a big of play in it and it can flex under load. Plus, if it breaks in its current configuration it would make a mess. The modification will prevent it from exploding, even if it breaks.

Best place for the IAT sensor is either right before the throttle body or drilled and tapped into the back of the intake manifold.

Dual 15gph meth nozzles in the charge pipe.

Try to hard pipe as much of the kit as you can, the less silicon the bettter!

alignment, Alignment, ALIGNMENT!!! Take your time to laser alight everything! If its not perfect, you WILL have belt problems that will make you want to rip your hair out!

You will have plenty of YSI support on this forum man, best of luck with this build! Cant wait to see the outcome.

realcanuk

Thanks for all the advice. I will need it. I know it can make 1000 plus as I have a few friends doing it but I don't really want to go there for now. My poor 6L80 will not be happy.

We are going to fab all the pipes so we will use as little silicone as possible for sure. I have the dual meth already. I thought mounting the IAT between the meth and TB was the way to go ??

Tell me more about the reinforcement ? The bracket I have is the latest with the heavy duty tensioner. Is there something more ?

Don't know anything about BOV's. Will have to learn. That sucks cause I though the Mondo it came with was an upgrade.

This doesn't mean I am a PD basher!! Can we still be friends ? LOL Still like my eforce setup and would recommend it to anyone.

breecher_7

Yes the standard procedure is to mount the meth nozzles about 6" before the IAT sensor. I recently started playing with mounting the IAT in the back of the intake to get a more "real" IAT number. Your IAT's will still be Sub ambient with meth. Down at LS Fest this past year it was 100 degrees outside. We never saw IAT's over 90 degrees on WOT pulls. Quite a bit different than them pd blowers...

As far as the bracket goes, the bracket isnt the problem. The tensioner itself unbolts from the bracket and needs to be reinforced for maximum stiffness and strength.

If you plan to limit the cars power due to your transmission I would probably still run a 2.75" pulley and then use a restrictor plate to limit boost. That way the blower will still come on hard like a freight train but limit top end boost.

I know you are coming from a PD blower, but I think you are going to be very suprised with how hard this blower comes on when pullied correctly.

I will send you a PM explaining the tensioner mod....

realcanuk

Awesome... and thanks. Going to be fun building again. I like the project as much as the result.

Unreal

Agreed with Breecher.
Dual Tials
Hard pipe

2.75 will spin the blower in the 1000+ range. 3.0 should be ~900ish. I guess it depends on what you want. If you want 800-900 I got a 3.1 and a few others I think.

camirocz

Order a transmission from rpm you re going to need it.There is no way you re going through all these changes to make the same power you were making with the E force.As they say everything happens for a reason.It should fly thats for sure.

realcanuk

Shall I put the 15k to do a conversion on your account ?

I know you don't get it, but I am doing these changes because I like working on my car. How much power ........... will decide that when the time comes.

Unreal

Weld a bead on the end of the Ysi too so the pipe doesn't blow off. That is something I learned the hard way.

breecher_7

I have personally never had that issue. I know Andy ships them from A&A with a really rough finish on the discharge part of the blower. Takes a rough sanding disc or something to them. Ive never had it it come off. A weld bead would certainly be extra insurance though!

realcanuk

Thanks. Already planned that just from looking at it. Problem or not it cant hurt.

realcanuk

If you don't send me that PM I am going back to a PD !!!

Unreal

I had my discharge pipe blow off twice before I welded a bead on it. They should just come like that.

c5mtl

I had the pipe coming off the inter cooler to the tb pop off just past the 1000's foot mark...cost me a 8.7 slip and gave me a nice crack on my hood......beads are good but for me that pipe shoud be vband!! Saves your hood!!

08C6

" realcanuck " Jody insane build you have going on !!! 1000 WHP club will be insane to drive... I've got 565 WHP which I think is plenty for the street... Maybe do a road trip next season go to a show or track to see your ride... Cheers !!!

realcanuk

Should be fun for sure but not going for 1000. Guess I am getting old !! LOL

realcanuk

Started ordering parts for this build.

Is there a way to accurately figure out belt size before its together or should I just wait and try different sizes then. Taking into account different dampers, pulleys, etc. I guess its tough to know exactly.

Unreal

I could tell you if it was an ECS kit, but even then there is some guess work involved. I had to try 2-3 belts to find the right size. Current one (52.25" I believe) barely fits on, and took 2 of us an hour to wrestle on. The 52.75 goes right now by myself, and puts tensioner in the middle.

Abdul (local 1300rwhp Dsteck/CBI built car) runs a A&A 8 rib ysi/direct drive, and would be a good person to ask.