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Boosted Engine Crankcase Pressure

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Old 12-17-2014, 10:09 AM
  #21  
Unreal
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Nope, keeping it anatomically correct with 2 nipples per cover.
Old 12-17-2014, 01:05 PM
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Pitufina
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Originally Posted by Unreal
I didn't want to mess with expensive AN fittings, so weld on barbs are easy. Friends at AGP turbo are doing everything, and they make catchcans so they are just making me up some. Can't complain, just dropped off covers, and a few days later should all be done. They are also modifying my tensioner at the same time.
It's good to have friends like that. The AN fittings is what's holding me back.
Old 12-17-2014, 01:31 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Pitufina
It's good to have friends like that. The AN fittings is what's holding me back.
but they look so nice... an fittings are cool but dang they get expensive real fast, not only the fittings themselves but the hose as well
Old 12-17-2014, 02:57 PM
  #24  
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Way easier to slip a hose over a nipple than screw on a fitting, plus less hassle. Might not look as cool, but it functions great so good enough for me.
Old 12-17-2014, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
Way easier to slip a hose over a nipple than screw on a fitting, plus less hassle. Might not look as cool, but it functions great so good enough for me.
no doubt you're right about that, I have messed up my fair share of -an fittings... I have -an to pushloc fittings on my breather can and I'm debating switching it to a regular -an hose end with black braided hose while my car is apart just for aestheics... on a line with no fluid or pressure running through it I wouldn't hesitate to use a pushloc hose... now if you're building a fuel system or something along those lines there's no way I would use those even if they are rated for high pressure, just not worth the risk to me

Last edited by neutron82; 12-17-2014 at 03:09 PM.
Old 12-17-2014, 03:26 PM
  #26  
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I have push-loc on my fuel system. Works fine.
Old 12-17-2014, 06:23 PM
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I agree fittings are not cheap, but in the scheme of things another few bucks wont make a difference. And yeah........they look so nice. LOL

Got my MM catch cans today. I brought them to the garage and forgot to take pictures. Oh well. They look like nice pieces.
Old 12-18-2014, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Pitufina
Btw, I'm surprised to see Greg posting. Thanks.
I'm still alive, still have my C6, and this topic was a Nerf toss as I knew the solution off the top of my head that has excellent results. Now, if you'll excuse me, I need to get back to doing more EFI work and finish the new videos for 2015...
Old 12-18-2014, 12:39 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by TurboLX
I'm still alive, still have my C6, and this topic was a Nerf toss as I knew the solution off the top of my head that has excellent results. Now, if you'll excuse me, I need to get back to doing more EFI work and finish the new videos for 2015...
Ahhh good luck with the new videos!
Old 12-19-2014, 10:07 PM
  #30  
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I have a quick question about check valves and what you guys are using.

I'm thinking about upgrading my setup with a 1/2" npt to 5/8" barb fittings. One on the drivers side valve cover and one on the intake to the catch can. I have one 3/8" hose with a check valve going into the intake to vent under vacuum and close off under boost and the same can be said for the other side fitting which goes to the procharger intake. Also the valve cover line is tee'd into the valley cover with the 3/8" lines.

Can I upgrade the lines from the valve cover to catch can and procharger to catch can and eliminate the check valves there and only have the check valve for the intake side hose. There would be fresh air pulled into the crankcase from the oil cap breather and sucked out through the catch can into the procharger intake. Hopefully the vacuum from the procharger and large hoses would allow for the boost to vent (plus the oil cap is vented as well if pressure does build) and I don't really see a need to cap it off. If the intake side pulls more vaccum at idle or part throttle then it should be fine as long as the unmetered air is somewhat tuned for which as of right now it is. I could toss a breather on the valley cover as well if I can tune it decently.

I may be missing something big but as of right now but for the most part I think it would really help. The larger lines and greater vacuum would definitely eliminate the small boost I build in the crankcase.

Old 12-19-2014, 10:13 PM
  #31  
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After last weekend, not a fan of vented caps. Under long high boost mine was spraying oil everywhere.
Old 12-19-2014, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
After last weekend, not a fan of vented caps. Under long high boost mine was spraying oil everywhere.
I should only be hitting 14 psi max. It hasn't been an issue yet just some fumes but hopefully with a good vacuum pull I should be pulling air through that breather and not pushing it out.
Old 12-20-2014, 09:17 AM
  #33  
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Not under load in my experience. Driving around, yes, WOT, nope.
Old 12-20-2014, 09:57 AM
  #34  
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i run 2 an fittings 10an one to each cover to a breather tank were the air pump was
a breather for an oil cap ..pcv system with a oil/air separator from moroso..nipple on pass cover will be plugged

overkill?

Last edited by blown81bu; 12-20-2014 at 10:03 AM.
Old 12-20-2014, 10:41 PM
  #35  
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Not if it works.....
Old 12-21-2014, 09:17 PM
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Well just got the roommate to buy me a vented puke canister, -10an fitting and line with fittings for Christmas. Looks like I'll get to see if that helps any more along with the larger lines. I swear I bought about $100 worth of fittings just to make sure I have everything covered as long as the catch can is large enough.
Old 12-28-2014, 11:34 AM
  #37  
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You can see the 1/2" nipple welded onto the cover. Got another one on the other side. Both are behind the baffles. Just need to grab a vented can or two and plumb them up. still got the other can for now venting covers/valley plate.

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Old 12-28-2014, 03:31 PM
  #38  
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Instead of welding a -10 bung in the valve cover, why not use something like this?

http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...6894/overview/

They also come in -12 (and -8)
Old 12-28-2014, 03:46 PM
  #39  
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Welding was free
That would require drilling or removing the baffles underneath
That is far more expensive by the time you add AN fittings/ends. 1/2" nipples were free, 8 ft of 1/2 hose was $8.
Old 12-28-2014, 04:34 PM
  #40  
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Ya cheap ***.


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