A&A or ECS?
02-10-2015, 07:47 AM
#41
Pro
Thread Starter
Well I guess you can't go wrong with either. I never intend on making more than 600rwhp anyways, which is my goal which is to hit 575-600rwhp when I am done so I guess it really doesn't matter either way.
02-10-2015, 07:54 AM
#42
Le Mans Master
02-10-2015, 07:59 AM
#43
Race Director
Member Since: May 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 16,664
Received 1,195 Likes
on
1,053 Posts
St. Jude Donor '15
I said it.
I'm not even done tuning the initial base setup and already went overkill on clutch and probably going overkill on fuel system next.. So that can only mean one thing.. Those pesky stock pistons are in the way of me turning it up!
I'm not even done tuning the initial base setup and already went overkill on clutch and probably going overkill on fuel system next.. So that can only mean one thing.. Those pesky stock pistons are in the way of me turning it up!
02-10-2015, 08:59 AM
#44
Premium Supporting Vendor
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: Providing the most proven supercharger kits for your C5/6/7 609-752-0321
Posts: 23,322
Received 1,091 Likes
on
659 Posts
Even if that was true, which is rare you just don't know it yet,
you will have better resale from the 1500/t-trim then the Si. You will also be more efficient in the power you're making, slightly lower IAT's and more power per lb of boost.
Here is a thread that shows a direct comparison between the two. The comparison graph's are a bit hard to see, but with very little extra boost, roughly 1 lb more, it pick's up around 50 RWHP. One Lb of boost is normally 20-25 RWHP +-.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...00-t-trim.html
02-10-2015, 06:26 PM
#45
Le Mans Master
Even if that was true, which is rare you just don't know it yet, you will have better resale from the 1500/t-trim then the Si.
You will also be more efficient in the power you're making, slightly lower IAT's and more power per lb of boost.
Here is a thread that shows a direct comparison between the two. The comparison graph's are a bit hard to see, but with very little extra boost, roughly 1 lb more, it pick's up around 50 RWHP. One Lb of boost is normally 20-25 RWHP +-.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...00-t-trim.html
you will have better resale from the 1500/t-trim then the Si. You will also be more efficient in the power you're making, slightly lower IAT's and more power per lb of boost.
Here is a thread that shows a direct comparison between the two. The comparison graph's are a bit hard to see, but with very little extra boost, roughly 1 lb more, it pick's up around 50 RWHP. One Lb of boost is normally 20-25 RWHP +-.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...00-t-trim.html
02-10-2015, 06:36 PM
#46
Drifting
I'm going to give a shout out to A&A's products and service. They've always treated me well. No experience with ECS.
Living in California I needed Carb certified centrifugal S/C. Recently, just passed smog without any issues.
02-10-2015, 09:06 PM
#48
Team Owner
Yep, if Cali and CARB are an issue, then A&A it the way to go, but the other 49 states don't have that issue.
02-10-2015, 10:16 PM
#50
Drifting
02-11-2015, 12:37 AM
#51
Platinum Supporting Vendor
I dislike getting involved in threads like this at all. But I guess it's time I say something in the defense of my company.
Mr Unreal had a disagreement with my manager almost 5 years ago and for some reason continues to post things like this at every opportunity, which he is entitled to do. The problem is that a lot of the information is incorrect. Some, but not all, of the points he brings up were true back then. Very little of it is nowadays. I'll be as objective and truthful as I can and truly hope that "the other guys" don't try to blow this up and make it something it's not. It's merely me pointing out some real errors in things posted about A&A. I also am entitled to do this.
Some things are simply one opinion vs. another and hopefully I've clarified what is opinion and what is fact without ruffling any feathers.
I always encourage people to look over our instructions. You'll see detailed pictures of just how well our intercooler system is designed. Everything fits like a glove.
Look at the articulated silicone hoses. They have bends in just the right places to get around the sway bar, skid bar etc. You won't find any generic rubber hoses in our systems.
Every clamp is a stainless constant tension design.
You don't sell over 400 kits a year if you're not delivering a quality product.
I also saw someone post that great customer service meant posting in threads on Corvette Forum. Try calling your favorite supercharger company on a Saturday, Sunday, evenings or even Holidays for help.
Who's going to answer 90% of the time or call back if you missed them?
Call A&A after hours and it automatically forwards to my cell (unless I'm out of the country) I guarantee nobody else will do that for you.
In the last 6 months we've done everything we can to build up our inventory of superchargers and components. We have been able to consistently build systems and ship them within 2 or 3 days of ordering.
We currently have all head units (Si, Ti and YSi) in both black and polished in stock. There's no waiting for custom head units such as this.
I hope this clarifies a few things without "stirring the pot".
Thanks, Andy
Mr Unreal had a disagreement with my manager almost 5 years ago and for some reason continues to post things like this at every opportunity, which he is entitled to do. The problem is that a lot of the information is incorrect. Some, but not all, of the points he brings up were true back then. Very little of it is nowadays. I'll be as objective and truthful as I can and truly hope that "the other guys" don't try to blow this up and make it something it's not. It's merely me pointing out some real errors in things posted about A&A. I also am entitled to do this.
Some things are simply one opinion vs. another and hopefully I've clarified what is opinion and what is fact without ruffling any feathers.
Let me break it down farther from someone that has owned both kits
Easier pulley changes- I can swap an ECS kit belt/pulley in <10 minutes. It is very easy. Loosen blower pulley, loosen two bolts, open tensioner, slide belt off, slide pulley off, repeat. I don't think there is any debate on this one. ECS hands down on belt/pulley changes.
This one I'll give you. But then if you can go a couple of years without changing a belt, it's not such a big deal.
Better tensioner- ECS tensioner is good out of the box for 600-1200hp. All the big power A&A people I talk to reinforce or weld the tensioner to remove flex. At <800hp, probably not noticeable difference.
We've made well over 800 RWHP with our standard tensioner. Yes, on some of the real high HP stuff, we reinforce the tensioner. It's included on our YSi kits. If you think that the other team has never broken a tensioner, you're mistaken. At super high HP levels it's inevitable.
Better BOV- Tial BOV provided with the ECS kit is superior to the turbosmart or whatever came with the A&A kit. At low power levels, they both work fine, but the Tial is top of the line BOV that flows a ton.
Once again, we have options. The Tial is just obnoxiously loud and cannot be made to be any other way. 90% of everyday drivers just don't want that. Our 52 MM valve can be just as loud with the "trumpet" attached, only mildly obnoxious with a filter and fairly quiet with a muffler assembly we make. I actually dislike our BOV (and the open Tial style) without muffling it because it's too loud.
People don't realize that it's not like a turbo where the BOV only makes noise when you make a shift. It's open at idle, when cruising, when decelerating, even when accelerating lightly. It can really grate on you. An obnoxious BOV just isn't for everyone.
Better Piping- 1 piece 4" upper pipe that came powder coated in color of my choice, and pre set up for dual nozzle meth/IAT. When I had the A&A kit, it was a multipiece pipe, 3.5" instead of 4", and to add meth was $200+ in fabbing/welding/work. If you are just running an out of the box kit at 600hp, probably no difference, but when upgrading later it is nice. A&A may have swapped to full 4" pipes now, as it seems the newer systems appear to have that so this may not be different anymore.
We've used a one piece 4" pipe for years. this is nothing new. Nothing to dispute here.
Better FMIC- The bar and plate core ECS uses is top notch. You can argue it isn't as pretty since it doesn't span the whole front end, but I'll take function over form. That being said, they both work fine I just like the ECS core more. IATs were both 5-6 degrees over ambient cruising and about the same WOT.
Our intercoolers are also "bar and plate" and have 150 square inches of core that is 100% open to frontal airflow. NOBODY can beat that. It's sealed top and bottom and has side skirts so that all the air that hits the front is literally forced through it.
Your favorite intercooler has over half of it shrouded by the frame with nothing to direct the airflow through it. Look through the grill opening on both. With ours all you see is core. That's all that is exposed to frontal airflow. Both tanks are sealed off. Now look through yours. What do you see? The bottom tank and a 3" sliver of the core that only covers 2/3 of the grill opening. Why would you want the tank, rather than the actual core, to be in the air stream?
What about directing airflow into the radiator? We have laser cut panels that mount to the frame and are sealed against the radiator to direct airflow to the radiator as well. Does anyone else? No, we're the only ones that go to the time and expense to incorporate thiee parts into our system.
These facts can't be disputed. It's not opinion.
Better base blower- Only an issue if you don't pay the $250 or so to upgrade to the Ti-trim. I wouldn't run a Si-trim on any corvette application.
We'll have to agree to disagree here. The Si is more efficient in the 500 - 600 RWHP range. That's the range that 80% of the buyers are in and will stay in. The Ti Trim is advantageous only if you spin it harder. I believe in using the right blower for the application. The Si is more than enough for any stock motor. The Ti is too small for most built motors. Most guys who get the Si stick with it, drive it for years and have no issues. Most of the guys who go with the Ti end up building their motors and wanting a YSi. That's just been my experience.
Steel idlers- ECS uses double bearing steel idlers, A&A plastic ones. If that is worth anything to you, make up your own mind, but replacing the idlers can be a pain, so I'll take the ones that will last longer.
I actually prefer the thermoplastic idlers. They tend to be quieter and rarely wear out. That being said, we started using steel idlers about a year ago simply because I got tired of "hearing about it" from the other side.
Setup for 8 rib out of the box- Cost me $700+ for 8 rib kit and have to take whole blower off with A&A kit to swap out spacers/etc. ECS kit was setup already, just swap PS/alt/crank/blower pulley and you are ready to rock. Once again it is something if you just are going to make 600hp, and not upgrade no big deal, but in the future it is nice.
We sell our 8 rib setup for just about what they do. It includes the blower, power steering, alternator, idler pulley on the alternator bracket and the spacers and pulleys for our bracket. We don't charge extra for the idlers and spacers.
I see little or no advantage to either side.
Restictor Plate- Low end torque is nice. The small pulley restrictor design gives a nice power band.
I, and supercharger manufacturers, believe that spinning the crap out of the blower and then restricting it can cause impeller damage. It also drives intake temps up drastically. Maybe that's why they push Meth injection so hard?
It's kind of like a boat propeller cavitating. It will eat up the propeller.
They will disagree, but this is what I have been told and it makes sense to me.
I also like the ECS dongle better. It also comes with a catchcan/PCV system. I like the ECS branded plug/play voltage booster. I like the injectors ECS kit ships with more.
My dongle, their dongle? I see no advantage to either side here. I made sure we had a large cross section and a smooth entry into the blower when designing ours. The cross sectional area, at the tightest point, is still larger than a 4" round tube. I'm assuming they did the same.
Catch can? The way we run our crankcase evacuation, there is no need for a catch can. Our air filter remains dry which proves no oil is being sucked through.
We use the Kenne Bell Boost A Pump simply because we have zero comebacks with them. They simply work under all conditions, wet or dry, hot or cold.
Injectors? Again, years ago we used FIC drilled OE injectors. For over 2 years we've used NEW Bosch 60# injectors for LS2 and Billet Tip 82# injectors for LS3 and LS7.
That being said, if you want a bolt on 600hp never touch, just slap on and enjoy, either kit are fine. It is when you want to make 700, 800, or more then all the sudden you are swapping out a lot more, and upgrading other parts with any other kit.
Kind of like a z06 vs zr1 arguement, both good cars, both fine if you are just daily driving, but if you want to take them to the track or upgrade, there are plenty of little differences that make one a bit better.
Easier pulley changes- I can swap an ECS kit belt/pulley in <10 minutes. It is very easy. Loosen blower pulley, loosen two bolts, open tensioner, slide belt off, slide pulley off, repeat. I don't think there is any debate on this one. ECS hands down on belt/pulley changes.
This one I'll give you. But then if you can go a couple of years without changing a belt, it's not such a big deal.
Better tensioner- ECS tensioner is good out of the box for 600-1200hp. All the big power A&A people I talk to reinforce or weld the tensioner to remove flex. At <800hp, probably not noticeable difference.
We've made well over 800 RWHP with our standard tensioner. Yes, on some of the real high HP stuff, we reinforce the tensioner. It's included on our YSi kits. If you think that the other team has never broken a tensioner, you're mistaken. At super high HP levels it's inevitable.
Better BOV- Tial BOV provided with the ECS kit is superior to the turbosmart or whatever came with the A&A kit. At low power levels, they both work fine, but the Tial is top of the line BOV that flows a ton.
Once again, we have options. The Tial is just obnoxiously loud and cannot be made to be any other way. 90% of everyday drivers just don't want that. Our 52 MM valve can be just as loud with the "trumpet" attached, only mildly obnoxious with a filter and fairly quiet with a muffler assembly we make. I actually dislike our BOV (and the open Tial style) without muffling it because it's too loud.
People don't realize that it's not like a turbo where the BOV only makes noise when you make a shift. It's open at idle, when cruising, when decelerating, even when accelerating lightly. It can really grate on you. An obnoxious BOV just isn't for everyone.
Better Piping- 1 piece 4" upper pipe that came powder coated in color of my choice, and pre set up for dual nozzle meth/IAT. When I had the A&A kit, it was a multipiece pipe, 3.5" instead of 4", and to add meth was $200+ in fabbing/welding/work. If you are just running an out of the box kit at 600hp, probably no difference, but when upgrading later it is nice. A&A may have swapped to full 4" pipes now, as it seems the newer systems appear to have that so this may not be different anymore.
We've used a one piece 4" pipe for years. this is nothing new. Nothing to dispute here.
Better FMIC- The bar and plate core ECS uses is top notch. You can argue it isn't as pretty since it doesn't span the whole front end, but I'll take function over form. That being said, they both work fine I just like the ECS core more. IATs were both 5-6 degrees over ambient cruising and about the same WOT.
Our intercoolers are also "bar and plate" and have 150 square inches of core that is 100% open to frontal airflow. NOBODY can beat that. It's sealed top and bottom and has side skirts so that all the air that hits the front is literally forced through it.
Your favorite intercooler has over half of it shrouded by the frame with nothing to direct the airflow through it. Look through the grill opening on both. With ours all you see is core. That's all that is exposed to frontal airflow. Both tanks are sealed off. Now look through yours. What do you see? The bottom tank and a 3" sliver of the core that only covers 2/3 of the grill opening. Why would you want the tank, rather than the actual core, to be in the air stream?
What about directing airflow into the radiator? We have laser cut panels that mount to the frame and are sealed against the radiator to direct airflow to the radiator as well. Does anyone else? No, we're the only ones that go to the time and expense to incorporate thiee parts into our system.
These facts can't be disputed. It's not opinion.
Better base blower- Only an issue if you don't pay the $250 or so to upgrade to the Ti-trim. I wouldn't run a Si-trim on any corvette application.
We'll have to agree to disagree here. The Si is more efficient in the 500 - 600 RWHP range. That's the range that 80% of the buyers are in and will stay in. The Ti Trim is advantageous only if you spin it harder. I believe in using the right blower for the application. The Si is more than enough for any stock motor. The Ti is too small for most built motors. Most guys who get the Si stick with it, drive it for years and have no issues. Most of the guys who go with the Ti end up building their motors and wanting a YSi. That's just been my experience.
Steel idlers- ECS uses double bearing steel idlers, A&A plastic ones. If that is worth anything to you, make up your own mind, but replacing the idlers can be a pain, so I'll take the ones that will last longer.
I actually prefer the thermoplastic idlers. They tend to be quieter and rarely wear out. That being said, we started using steel idlers about a year ago simply because I got tired of "hearing about it" from the other side.
Setup for 8 rib out of the box- Cost me $700+ for 8 rib kit and have to take whole blower off with A&A kit to swap out spacers/etc. ECS kit was setup already, just swap PS/alt/crank/blower pulley and you are ready to rock. Once again it is something if you just are going to make 600hp, and not upgrade no big deal, but in the future it is nice.
We sell our 8 rib setup for just about what they do. It includes the blower, power steering, alternator, idler pulley on the alternator bracket and the spacers and pulleys for our bracket. We don't charge extra for the idlers and spacers.
I see little or no advantage to either side.
Restictor Plate- Low end torque is nice. The small pulley restrictor design gives a nice power band.
I, and supercharger manufacturers, believe that spinning the crap out of the blower and then restricting it can cause impeller damage. It also drives intake temps up drastically. Maybe that's why they push Meth injection so hard?
It's kind of like a boat propeller cavitating. It will eat up the propeller.
They will disagree, but this is what I have been told and it makes sense to me.
I also like the ECS dongle better. It also comes with a catchcan/PCV system. I like the ECS branded plug/play voltage booster. I like the injectors ECS kit ships with more.
My dongle, their dongle? I see no advantage to either side here. I made sure we had a large cross section and a smooth entry into the blower when designing ours. The cross sectional area, at the tightest point, is still larger than a 4" round tube. I'm assuming they did the same.
Catch can? The way we run our crankcase evacuation, there is no need for a catch can. Our air filter remains dry which proves no oil is being sucked through.
We use the Kenne Bell Boost A Pump simply because we have zero comebacks with them. They simply work under all conditions, wet or dry, hot or cold.
Injectors? Again, years ago we used FIC drilled OE injectors. For over 2 years we've used NEW Bosch 60# injectors for LS2 and Billet Tip 82# injectors for LS3 and LS7.
That being said, if you want a bolt on 600hp never touch, just slap on and enjoy, either kit are fine. It is when you want to make 700, 800, or more then all the sudden you are swapping out a lot more, and upgrading other parts with any other kit.
Kind of like a z06 vs zr1 arguement, both good cars, both fine if you are just daily driving, but if you want to take them to the track or upgrade, there are plenty of little differences that make one a bit better.
Look at the articulated silicone hoses. They have bends in just the right places to get around the sway bar, skid bar etc. You won't find any generic rubber hoses in our systems.
Every clamp is a stainless constant tension design.
You don't sell over 400 kits a year if you're not delivering a quality product.
I also saw someone post that great customer service meant posting in threads on Corvette Forum. Try calling your favorite supercharger company on a Saturday, Sunday, evenings or even Holidays for help.
Who's going to answer 90% of the time or call back if you missed them?
Call A&A after hours and it automatically forwards to my cell (unless I'm out of the country) I guarantee nobody else will do that for you.
In the last 6 months we've done everything we can to build up our inventory of superchargers and components. We have been able to consistently build systems and ship them within 2 or 3 days of ordering.
We currently have all head units (Si, Ti and YSi) in both black and polished in stock. There's no waiting for custom head units such as this.
I hope this clarifies a few things without "stirring the pot".
Thanks, Andy
__________________
PLEASE TAKE A MOMENT TO VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT WWW.AACORVETTE.COM
NOW PARTNERING WITH AFFIRM TO OFFER INTEREST FREE FINANCING!
A&A CORVETTE
477 LAMBERT ST
OXNARD CA 93036
WWW.AACorvette.com
A&A CORVETTE SUPERCHARGER SYSTEMS
HOME OF THE WORLDS FIRST
CENTRIFUGALLY SUPERCHARGED C7
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING- SUPERIOR POWER
SUPERIOR PRICING- SUPERIOR CUSTOMER SUPPORT
Andy@AACorvette.com 805- 278 4107
PLEASE TAKE A MOMENT TO VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT WWW.AACORVETTE.COM
NOW PARTNERING WITH AFFIRM TO OFFER INTEREST FREE FINANCING!
A&A CORVETTE
477 LAMBERT ST
OXNARD CA 93036
WWW.AACorvette.com
A&A CORVETTE SUPERCHARGER SYSTEMS
HOME OF THE WORLDS FIRST
CENTRIFUGALLY SUPERCHARGED C7
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING- SUPERIOR POWER
SUPERIOR PRICING- SUPERIOR CUSTOMER SUPPORT
Andy@AACorvette.com 805- 278 4107
The following users liked this post:
csnow (08-27-2019)
02-11-2015, 12:52 AM
#52
Former Vendor
ive installed both kits same vehicle and andys made more rwhp/tq acros the board with 2 less psi. Not going to go into a big debate but pm me if you have questions. Andys kit is nice!
02-11-2015, 02:25 AM
#53
Safety Car
OBD check only, no more sniffer. They looked up the carb number and did a thorough visual inspection. They checked for CATS, PCV routing and even measured the S/C pulley.
In California, there is no such thing as "putting the car away for the winter". Maybe, a couple of weeks for rain.
Just to add to Andy's post above. I drove from northern CA to southern CA to A&A Corvettes to have a V3 Si supercharge installed and tuned. They did a professional job and took great care of my car. The results were 581 rwhp on an 08 LS3, NPP, manual with no other mods. They did not try to sell me other upgrades, actually discouraged me from buying unnecessary options for my application and needs. I appreciate their honesty and professionalism.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; 02-11-2015 at 02:50 AM.
02-11-2015, 03:15 AM
#54
we have tested both and while A&A has a pretty nice product, i havent had a single case where they have shown the results and longevity that the ECS kits have. ECS is our vendor of choice hands down
02-11-2015, 10:02 AM
#55
Drifting
Glad to see A&A respond, I have 30,000 miles on my A&A kit and haven't even changed the belt .
ECS are good guys, I'm running their Meth kit, bought my Mantic from them, and will have them check my tune when or if Winter ever ends.
They are both the best F/I kits for the vette on the market IMO. My advice is always to just select who has an authorized shop closest to you. There's nothing worse than having a problem and the shop that did the install is 4 hours away. You will be happy with either kit.
. ECS are good guys, I'm running their Meth kit, bought my Mantic from them, and will have them check my tune when or if Winter ever ends.
They are both the best F/I kits for the vette on the market IMO. My advice is always to just select who has an authorized shop closest to you. There's nothing worse than having a problem and the shop that did the install is 4 hours away. You will be happy with either kit.
02-11-2015, 12:23 PM
#56
Pro
Thread Starter
Yeah well my options are: Drive 90 min to MA and there a great shop there that will install the A&A for $6900 or the ECS kit for $7100 tuned. Option #2 is to drive 5 hrs. to ECS and spend $7495 to have their kit installed and tuned, which I don't think anyone would do a better job with the ECS kit. Option 3 would be buy the kit from one of the vendors here for right around $5K and find someone in NH to install it and then get it tuned. Just don't know who I would trust up here in Cowhampshire that could do it and do it right. I guess either kit has it's pro's and con's and in the end, the result will most likely be the same from what everyone's been posting. I didn't want this to turn into a **** show, just wanted some true honest opinions on both products without pissing off any vendors. All vendors will get offended if someone bashes their product. Just like everything else that first starts out, there may be some hiccups in the beginning but they will eventually work themselves out in the end if the Manufacturer fixes the issue based on the complaints of their customers.
Last edited by Chokeu; 02-11-2015 at 12:27 PM.
02-11-2015, 12:58 PM
#57
Drifting
I have to thank Andy for clarifying the information about their kits. I don't know if that would had sway me into their kits when I placed my order but it would've definitely made me consider them a bit more.
On a side note, I think I've read more about A&A kits suffering from higher engine temps. Also seen more recommendation for radiators upgrade with the A&A as well. So if one suffers from higher IATs(assumed based on Andy's comment and btw I have not experienced that yet) and one from higher engine temps(assumed as well by posts), I think that there's a happy medium. At the end everyone should go with whichever kit they feel comfortable buying and the follow on support.
On a side note, I think I've read more about A&A kits suffering from higher engine temps. Also seen more recommendation for radiators upgrade with the A&A as well. So if one suffers from higher IATs(assumed based on Andy's comment and btw I have not experienced that yet) and one from higher engine temps(assumed as well by posts), I think that there's a happy medium. At the end everyone should go with whichever kit they feel comfortable buying and the follow on support.
Last edited by Pitufina; 02-11-2015 at 01:00 PM.
02-11-2015, 02:50 PM
#58
Racer
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Fort Walton Beach Florida
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
3 Posts
Op, for the power level you are after either kit will do just fine. I personally have an ECS kit and love it. I chose it because it came with the T trim although it's only a small fee to upgrade the A&A kit to themt trim. I liked that ECS uses a Tial BOV because I wanted loud and obnoxious, but the most important reason I chose the ecs kit was the simplicity of the kit. The bracket and tensioner are a very simple yet extremely effective design. Belt changes are quite easy for me.
I knew I was going to be maintaining the car myself so I wanted the kit that would be easiest for me to maintain and service. If you are going to be working on your own car than that's something I'd think about. I had a competent shop do the initial install and I haven't have any blower related issues since. I think you'll be happy with either kit as they are both quality products.
I knew I was going to be maintaining the car myself so I wanted the kit that would be easiest for me to maintain and service. If you are going to be working on your own car than that's something I'd think about. I had a competent shop do the initial install and I haven't have any blower related issues since. I think you'll be happy with either kit as they are both quality products.
02-11-2015, 04:38 PM
#59
Premium Supporting Vendor
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: Providing the most proven supercharger kits for your C5/6/7 609-752-0321
Posts: 23,322
Received 1,091 Likes
on
659 Posts
To tear up the response to shreds or not.... I'm actually going to take the high road for once, you guys clearly know the deal by now.
Thanks guys, we appreciate your business.
Thanks guys, we appreciate your business.
__________________
C5/C6 and C7 Supercharging Specialist
ECS Supercharger Kits / Mantic Clutches
www.EastCoastSupercharging.com
Facebook Page
ECS YouTube Channel
C5/C6 and C7 Supercharging Specialist
ECS Supercharger Kits / Mantic Clutches
www.EastCoastSupercharging.com
Facebook Page
ECS YouTube Channel
02-11-2015, 04:45 PM
#60
I've had great GREAT experience with both shops over the years and nothing but good things to say about both, in this game most shops are really low quality in my opinion and it's always refreshing to talk to ECS or A&A and get just top notch customer service and well thought out products. I honestly think you can't go wrong with either and if it were me I'd just go with whoever was closer to my house....
i will add that if you haven't owned one yet, 550rwhp is not as fast you think it might feel, with modern drag radials and suspension I was surprised how little drama and scariness there is to driving a procharged vettte at that level. My buddy has a stock ls3 with ca smog legal A&A kit on it at ~540whp and it basically just feels like stock but with 150 more hp. It's awesome and some people may love that but I don't drive a supercharged >$50k monster vette to feel like it's stock, I personally want something that is a little more intense than that and half the fun with these cars is the process of moding and building/improving them. so I would certainly say to plan for a setup that allows you to grow because I'll bet money you want more than 550whp by the 4th or 5th month of ownership. So I'll second what everyone else here is saying and recommend you upgrade the blower head unit on whichever kit you go to in order to support more hp because head units are crazy expensive on their own to replace and it's only a few hundred more to do it right the first time.
i will add that if you haven't owned one yet, 550rwhp is not as fast you think it might feel, with modern drag radials and suspension I was surprised how little drama and scariness there is to driving a procharged vettte at that level. My buddy has a stock ls3 with ca smog legal A&A kit on it at ~540whp and it basically just feels like stock but with 150 more hp. It's awesome and some people may love that but I don't drive a supercharged >$50k monster vette to feel like it's stock, I personally want something that is a little more intense than that and half the fun with these cars is the process of moding and building/improving them. so I would certainly say to plan for a setup that allows you to grow because I'll bet money you want more than 550whp by the 4th or 5th month of ownership. So I'll second what everyone else here is saying and recommend you upgrade the blower head unit on whichever kit you go to in order to support more hp because head units are crazy expensive on their own to replace and it's only a few hundred more to do it right the first time.
Last edited by neverstop; 02-11-2015 at 04:51 PM.