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I'm about done with the install. The instructions done realty say much about what to do with the eVap and breather lines from the dry sump.
Do I put them all back in the stock locations?
Om the pass side, there is no prevision in the intake tube for the one line. The other line has no place to go if I run a line from the air filter to it as instructed.
Can some one post up a pic or a diagram as to best solution. I'm running stock cam, intake and only mods is the blower.
Im pretty jealous of you. I am putting on the exact same kit in about a week. About how long has it taken you? Easy instructions to follow?
The instructions are not great. No other way to say it. The latest ones are better, but are still pretty vague in some spots.
You do NOT have to pull the steering rack to pin the crank. Look up the magna charger instructions and they show you how to do it. Basically lower the front cradle as far as you can while leaving the nuts on the bolts.. raise the engine as far as you can, and you'll end up with enough space to pin the crank without pulling the rack. You'll need a right angle drill of some sort to fit in the space you'll have to work with
Im pretty jealous of you. I am putting on the exact same kit in about a week. About how long has it taken you? Easy instructions to follow?
I started it in December. I pulled the heads and sent them out. I work on it one day a week end when I have time. No rush. Haven't tuched it in 3 weeks. It's ready to fire up.
Nice. Well the good news is my engine was just fully built and the crank is pinned. Also I am going with the 10rib with flip drive. Could get interesting. Lol
Because they are for a wet sump car that doesn't have any of that. Just needs to be hooked to a vacuum source if you want to keep it more emissions friendly, or you can vent them.
Just call your dealer or ECS if you have any questions. They are very helpful.
I would like to not smell the oil from venting under the hood as the cabin filter is about 6inches away from the dry sump. Also if I attatch it to the intake I will need another check valve so I don't boost the lines and pressurize the system. I'm sure everyone dose something, just not trying to re invent the wheel. I will call today and ask what's best for a street car.
On a stock C6Z with a supercharger there is no need to go crazy with the PCV system, the only difference with the std C6 vrs the Z06 is that the dry sump is in between. Here is a pic for you which will be added to the instructions. No smell or problems with oil unless you overfill it. Thank you.
On a stock C6Z with a supercharger there is no need to go crazy with the PCV system, the only difference with the std C6 vrs the Z06 is that the dry sump is in between. Here is a pic for you which will be added to the instructions. No smell or problems with oil unless you overfill it. Thank you.
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Awesome Doug, Thank you very much. I get it now. Every thing go's in the stock location. The one tube with no were to go from the air intake ,go's to the line from the new filter. Basically same location in the system, just has to be moved so it is before the blower.
Do I run the stock caps or add the cap with the breather built in that came with the kit, and put in on top of the dry sump? So the system can vent under boost I take it.
Awesome Doug, Thank you very much. I get it now. Every thing go's in the stock location. The one tube with no were to go from the air intake ,go's to the line from the new filter. Basically same location in the system, just has to be moved so it is before the blower.
Do I run the stock caps or add the cap with the breather built in that came with the kit, and put in on top of the dry sump? So the system can vent under boost I take it.
Typically we use the stock cap so it remains sealed, some people order the neck from GM for a wet sump oil fill to raise it and use the breather so we include it.
I do not feel it is necessary until you go higher on the HP/boost.
Thank you again. I should be all set then. I will run it sealed and keep the cap for future expansion.
I will call you in a week or so. I may just bring the car to you for the tune. I'm jest east of Cleveland Ohio. It's about 7 hrs but I can't think of anyone to tune around me that I feel all fuzzy about. I may just see if you can install a meth kit and tune it at the same time.
Thank you again. I should be all set then. I will run it sealed and keep the cap for future expansion.
I will call you in a week or so. I may just bring the car to you for the tune. I'm jest east of Cleveland Ohio. It's about 7 hrs but I can't think of anyone to tune around me that I feel all fuzzy about. I may just see if you can install a meth kit and tune it at the same time.
Sounds good, we have a loaner car you can use while we are completing the work. Thanks
Set everything as Doug said. Car fired right up and idled up to full temp. And the belt alignment looks to be spot on. Now to wire the boost-a-pump when I get time.
Set everything as Doug said. Car fired right up and idled up to full temp. And the belt alignment looks to be spot on. Now to wire the boost-a-pump when I get time.
Good deal! Are you adding a racetronix harness too or no?
I also used a hobbs switch with a metri-pack style connector if you're into that kind of thing. Racetronix sells them as well. The one ECS includes will work fine, I just prefer to use metri/weatherpack connectors and thought they looked a lot neater. I think I ordered the 4psi one. They are adjustable, so it's not a huge deal which one you order as long as it's in the ballpark
The harness def. made the BAP install easier + had the obvious benefit of bigger wiring going to the fuel pump all the time. And that way you can put the BAP in the rear driver fender well instead of trying to put it under the hood where space is obviously limited
You'll need to add one wire to the racetronix harness (or just zip tie it to it or something). This is for the trigger wire that turns the BAP "on" when you're over a certain amount of boost.
I also used a hobbs switch with a metri-pack style connector if you're into that kind of thing. Racetronix sells them as well. The one ECS includes will work fine, I just prefer to use metri/weatherpack connectors and thought they looked a lot neater. I think I ordered the 4psi one. They are adjustable, so it's not a huge deal which one you order as long as it's in the ballpark
The harness def. made the BAP install easier + had the obvious benefit of bigger wiring going to the fuel pump all the time. And that way you can put the BAP in the rear driver fender well instead of trying to put it under the hood where space is obviously limited
You'll need to add one wire to the racetronix harness (or just zip tie it to it or something). This is for the trigger wire that turns the BAP "on" when you're over a certain amount of boost.
The brown wire on the ECS bap just goes directly into the hobbs switch and does not connect into the racetronics harness. While the red and orange wire get tied into the racetronics harness correct?
03-01-2015, 07:27 PM
ECS install question, Evap lines/Z06
