winters97gt

Yeah, I roasted one piloting a CTSV a while back. It was on its way out, but I finished it off. The new DYAD's aren't all organic from my understanding. They have the standard DYAD then a modified DYAD.

Clutch talk is funny through the years. It's like a trend that switches every few years.

sr20dime

You can blame me if you want.
The reality is: I installed the first one that failed. They send a replacement and after removing the first clutch(a different shop did this one because I was working out of the country) they saw the second disk was different than the new kit and it appeared they shipped me the wrong disk on the failed unit resulting in the failure. The second one did well until we turned the boost up and it made 870whp. I called to say it was slipping again and they said "yeah it's only rated to 1000 to the crank" after I explained they told me several times 1000whp was "no problem, we do it all the time" I got silence. I'm sure lots of you guys have heard the same thing when purchasing these clutches.

The third one was installed by the vendor because the LS7 car is at our weekend home 1100 miles away and I don't have many tools there. This is the noisy one (doesn't slip just growls loudly at parking lot speeds). I sent a video to mantic about the growl and they said it was harmonics and they would most likely warranty it but why the hell do I want to go through all that again. I'm just changing to something different. I learned and bought all the lessons I want from Mantic. The is a bit more to the story with some broken promises from mantic but this should be enough to steer anyone away from them.

Unreal

Strange. No issues with mine at 1200rwhp.

Not blaming you, just saying I would take 3 failures on the same car with a grain of salt without the whole story. Just like if a person keeps losing motors in the same way, maybe it isn't the motors fault.

sr20dime

I hear you, I tried really hard to like Mantic. Look back at all my post in the last year. I was really pro Mantic until they totally screwed me at the beginning of the year.
Just trying to let everyone know what happened on my end so they can make an educated decision. I'm sure there are lots of other people that had good experiences or they wouldn't be around.
I didn't have 3 failures in the same car, we have 2 C6's that are setup completely different with 3 different installers so you can't blame a specific installer. A clutch in an investment especially if you have to do it several times! Clutches are a hard decision and everyone has a different experience.

Chance42

I'm on my second mantic 9000, my first one died at around 4000 miles. It had I think somewhere around 35-50 passes. I didn't keep exact count, but most of them were very soft launches. 1.8 60' and such just letting out easy, but quick, with little to no slip at around 3000 rpm. I had ONE harder slip, riding it for just a second at around 4200 rpm and cut a 1.6x 60. Another 1.6 that was letting out very quickly, but not dumping it. So one hard slip, one moderate, and numerous easy passes. There were a few no lift shift passes, maybe 3 or so.

That being said, Doug at ECS was nice when I talked to him about trying out their new "drag racing" discs or triple when they were released a few months after my 2nd clutch was purchased/installed. I didn't buy my clutch directly from him either, I bought it through a local shop that gets them from ECS.

I've put about 2800 miles or so on this one with no issues so far, but I haven't been to the drag strip yet. A handful of roll races, but that's it. Time will tell, I switched to bias plies to help out the clutch and drivetrain in general. If this ones burns up quickly, I'll see what Mantic is willing to do, but if it isn't favorable I'll be giving the RXT or a Monster clutch a shot the next go round. I have the Mantic in now, so I'm willing to give them a fair chance if it doesn't last, that's only right. I was always taught that mistakes and whatnot happens, but it's how the situation is handled that makes a difference.

For what it's worth the last time the car was dyno'd before tearing it down and finding the clutch in the shape it was, it made 768 rwhp/688 rwtq with a twin screw and very flat torque curve. Which is well under 1000 at the crank. I honestly believe most of the guys that have clutches in these cars (no specific brand), that claim they live over 1000 rwhp while "abusing" them, are doing mostly air strip/roll racing events. I want to know what the die hard drag strip guys are doing, what kind of 60' they are cutting, how many passes, are they hot lapping any, etc.... that will tell me more about what a clutch can stand up to, versus what someone did at shift sector or tx2k etc.

winters97gt

Chance, I beat the crap out of my Mcleod RXT daily when I got home from work at 800-850rwhp. I'd hot lap the car to 1.4-1.5 60fts in street trim on drag radials. It didn't hiccup a single time, not once. Hard slips and clutch basically did the work for me.

So now I'm in my C5 with a few thousand miles on the RXT. I'm making maybe 100hp more than my C6. 2 launches on the old motor at 830rwhp, but very light launches. The clutch won't hold for a loaded mustang dyno pull. Went back over one video and saw the dust blow out under the car from the clutch when it slipped. So I'm hesitant on both the RXT and Mantic right now.

slow ride

Looking at the Mantic and RXT I'm pretty sure they use the same Miba friction lining (or they look damn close). I know the RXT is solid hub and I think you can get either with the Mantic. Either way you need to make sure they are set up correct and the TOB is not pushing on the fingers when it should be released. I guess the rest is just up to the floater and pressure plate design. I realize the RXT is a cheaper design, but the price reflects that also.