Disappointed w blower performance
#21
Safety Car
Lots of expert's advice too!
Strange how that works on these forums. Some poor guy posts a thread with some problem he's experiencing with his car. Then some members jump in to offer some words of encouragement or advice, then before you know it, they're being flamed or scoffed at because they were trying to help, admittedly within their own limitations.
I sometimes wonder what some members think these forums are intended for? An advertisement platform for their latest gadgets and gimmicks, perhaps?
IDK who else on this thread could be accused of purporting to be an expert, but I certainly wasn't.
Hopefully, the OP will get his car sorted soon. Maybe, just maybe, some sarcasm will help him cure it.
Strange how that works on these forums. Some poor guy posts a thread with some problem he's experiencing with his car. Then some members jump in to offer some words of encouragement or advice, then before you know it, they're being flamed or scoffed at because they were trying to help, admittedly within their own limitations.
I sometimes wonder what some members think these forums are intended for? An advertisement platform for their latest gadgets and gimmicks, perhaps?
IDK who else on this thread could be accused of purporting to be an expert, but I certainly wasn't.
Hopefully, the OP will get his car sorted soon. Maybe, just maybe, some sarcasm will help him cure it.
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Arctic Vette (09-30-2015)
#22
But, pray tell, how do you categorize advice along the lines of "check with your tuner and the kit builder" and "it may be this or that" as "misinformation"?
Clearly that doesn't fit the definition in any dictionary or in any context I can think of?
It is patently obvious from the OP said that he wasn't going to tear into this thing himself, but was more or less looking to express his frustration and see if anyone had any idea as to what it could be, so it really is hard to see how that could pose a "problem" for anyone.
In any event, and obviously most importantly, "the problem" isn't "misinformation". The problem is a bad running car, according to its owner.
Maybe focusing on that, rather that tearing into others that have somehow seemingly offended you, would be more in keeping with the spirit and character of what these forums were intended for - helping other members. That's just my 2 cents...
#23
Safety Car
Let me tell you a story.
A guy had a 4L80 installed and tuned in his car by somebody else. They set it up with a PCS controller, and it never ran right. Nobody could access the PCS to try and edit it.
I built a T42 conversion for it and got it running, but the TCC was shot and would never lock. It all had to come apart. After it was reinstalled, the converter would lock finally. This lasted a couple hundred miles before the trans burned up. The owner took to the internet, where everybody told him all sorts of things that they knew had to be wrong, especially the tune. Hundreds of online comments later and burned bridges from being totally convinced the tune was wrong, it ended up being that the trans was always under filled because the original person who put it all together used a 4L60 dipstick instead of a 4L80.
But the internet know better because they have good intentions.
If he was losing fuel pressure, it would scatter the engine from being lean in boost. An unintended throttle closing would set off Reduced Engine Power, and torque management is hard when it engages (plus it's all been eliminated anyway).
I would bet the farm on it just being extremely hot. Epi wanted durability. This is part of it, and I can absolutely kill the IAT reduction, but it comes at the expense of increased risk.
A guy had a 4L80 installed and tuned in his car by somebody else. They set it up with a PCS controller, and it never ran right. Nobody could access the PCS to try and edit it.
I built a T42 conversion for it and got it running, but the TCC was shot and would never lock. It all had to come apart. After it was reinstalled, the converter would lock finally. This lasted a couple hundred miles before the trans burned up. The owner took to the internet, where everybody told him all sorts of things that they knew had to be wrong, especially the tune. Hundreds of online comments later and burned bridges from being totally convinced the tune was wrong, it ended up being that the trans was always under filled because the original person who put it all together used a 4L60 dipstick instead of a 4L80.
But the internet know better because they have good intentions.
If he was losing fuel pressure, it would scatter the engine from being lean in boost. An unintended throttle closing would set off Reduced Engine Power, and torque management is hard when it engages (plus it's all been eliminated anyway).
I would bet the farm on it just being extremely hot. Epi wanted durability. This is part of it, and I can absolutely kill the IAT reduction, but it comes at the expense of increased risk.
#24
Drifting
Thread Starter
I certainly appreciate the advice and words of encouragement that some are willing to type. I picked Dave to tune my car because He knows what he's doing and is highly recommended in every LSx forum and HPTuners of course. Like he said, I wanted a safe tune and nothing on the ragged edge. I bumped some ideas and concerns with him within the past couple of days, and in the past and he has ALWAYS responded almost instantly to my sometimes dumb texts lol
I had to leave town and I just made it to Alabama. This is the second long trip for this car in less than 3 months and it drove just fine. One thing I noticed is that the temps are running in the 200-214 on the highway and I thought it was odd. I remember seeing 179-185. Could it be the warmer temps in the south compared to the midwest? Would an aluminum radiator help the engine recover faster? Meaning less heat soaking and possibly help underhood temps and in turn help to keep the IaT temps down? I may have to reconsider the no meth idea and just suck it up.
Also I told Dave that I found the rear 02 sensors were connected incorrectly. He doesn't think that it should affect anything, but I noticed the engine is snappier now. It could be in all my head though lol Something I noticed was that in the last couple of weeks after installing the rxt clutch the vacuum on the highway while crusing was - 4 or - 5 and it required more pedal input for the slightest hill. I was used to see -7 or -8 and today on my way here I was seeing exactly that. All I've done was reconnect the o2 sensors in the right place.
I tried the br7efs for fridays run and the one thing I noticed is that the idle is crap. Otherwise the feel exactly the same as I was using the the ZR1 delco iridiums and the idle is so much better. I want to buy the HPTuners and start logging myself. Dave recommended the NGK TR7s and gave me this part number#4091, but he wasn't completely certain if that's the right one. Can anyone confirm this?
I had to leave town and I just made it to Alabama. This is the second long trip for this car in less than 3 months and it drove just fine. One thing I noticed is that the temps are running in the 200-214 on the highway and I thought it was odd. I remember seeing 179-185. Could it be the warmer temps in the south compared to the midwest? Would an aluminum radiator help the engine recover faster? Meaning less heat soaking and possibly help underhood temps and in turn help to keep the IaT temps down? I may have to reconsider the no meth idea and just suck it up.
Also I told Dave that I found the rear 02 sensors were connected incorrectly. He doesn't think that it should affect anything, but I noticed the engine is snappier now. It could be in all my head though lol Something I noticed was that in the last couple of weeks after installing the rxt clutch the vacuum on the highway while crusing was - 4 or - 5 and it required more pedal input for the slightest hill. I was used to see -7 or -8 and today on my way here I was seeing exactly that. All I've done was reconnect the o2 sensors in the right place.
I tried the br7efs for fridays run and the one thing I noticed is that the idle is crap. Otherwise the feel exactly the same as I was using the the ZR1 delco iridiums and the idle is so much better. I want to buy the HPTuners and start logging myself. Dave recommended the NGK TR7s and gave me this part number#4091, but he wasn't completely certain if that's the right one. Can anyone confirm this?
Last edited by Pitufina; 05-03-2015 at 08:08 PM.
#26
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Mar 2007
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If he was losing fuel pressure, it would scatter the engine from being lean in boost.
I would bet the farm on it just being extremely hot. Epi wanted durability. This is part of it, and I can absolutely kill the IAT reduction, but it comes at the expense of increased risk.
I think you'll agree that without logs it's pretty tough for anyone to say for sure what's going on. Guys were throwing out possible ideas (maybe not great ones, lol), but I don't see too much wrong with that. You're probably right about the heat, though, and you'd know better than anyone since you set up the IAT/spark tables. I'd be curious to see what kind of timing he's actually seeing on one of these passes.
#27
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Mar 2007
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I had to leave town and I just made it to Alabama. This is the second long trip for this car in less than 3 months and it drove just fine. One thing I noticed is that the temps are running in the 200-214 on the highway and I thought it was odd. I remember seeing 179-185. Could it be the warmer temps in the south compared to the midwest? Would an aluminum radiator help the engine recover faster? Meaning less heat soaking and possibly help underhood temps and in turn help to keep the IaT temps down? I may have to reconsider the no meth idea and just suck it up.
Everyone has their own opinion on coolant temps. For emissions and engine longevity, hotter is probably better. For knock resistance and power production, I feel lower is probably better. With these blower cars -- and especially the PD blower I have now -- I do think keeping the coolant temps lower does help with IATs in most situations. Of course, meth is the ultimate IAT solution for an ECS car.
I like iridium plugs myself. If Dave wants you to run a "7" range plug, maybe try an NGK TR7ix? That's basically an iridium version of the TR7.
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
No I did not pulled the filter but took of the heat shield to see if there was something obviously out of the ordinary. I know the potential is there just got to figure if there's an actual problem or its just needs to be tuned more aggressively lol
#29
Drifting
Thread Starter
While you know I respect your opinion Dave, I've had a couple of my own cars that had fuel pump issues that caused them to simply fall on their face at higher RPMs. The most severe issue was on a Magnacharged LS1 '67 Camaro I built some years back. Had a pump cavitation type issue that would show up after longer drives in warmer weather. It had a return style fuel system with a rail-mounted GM regulator. Fabbed stainless fuel tank with a 255 Walbro inside. The fuel would heat up over time and eventually cause it to totally lose power if you went WOT and put enough demand on the fuel system. Filling the tank with cool fuel or letting it sit long enough would resolve the issue.
I think you'll agree that without logs it's pretty tough for anyone to say for sure what's going on. Guys were throwing out possible ideas (maybe not great ones, lol), but I don't see too much wrong with that. You're probably right about the heat, though, and you'd know better than anyone since you set up the IAT/spark tables. I'd be curious to see what kind of timing he's actually seeing on one of these passes.
I think you'll agree that without logs it's pretty tough for anyone to say for sure what's going on. Guys were throwing out possible ideas (maybe not great ones, lol), but I don't see too much wrong with that. You're probably right about the heat, though, and you'd know better than anyone since you set up the IAT/spark tables. I'd be curious to see what kind of timing he's actually seeing on one of these passes.
Just my 2 cents, but I like upgrading the radiator on any FI C6. I've been pretty amazed at how well the DeWitts radiators have worked on my two C6 builds. Drove my A&A car ~200 miles through the desert to run at a 1/2 mile event. Made a bunch of 165 MPH passes in 90+ degree heat, then drove it ~200 miles home in the afternoon heat. On the way home, I had the windows up, A/C on, and coolant temps were staying in the 180 degree range.
Everyone has their own opinion on coolant temps. For emissions and engine longevity, hotter is probably better. For knock resistance and power production, I feel lower is probably better. With these blower cars -- and especially the PD blower I have now -- I do think keeping the coolant temps lower does help with IATs in most situations. Of course, meth is the ultimate IAT solution for an ECS car.
I like iridium plugs myself. If Dave wants you to run a "7" range plug, maybe try an NGK TR7ix? That's basically an iridium version of the TR7.
Everyone has their own opinion on coolant temps. For emissions and engine longevity, hotter is probably better. For knock resistance and power production, I feel lower is probably better. With these blower cars -- and especially the PD blower I have now -- I do think keeping the coolant temps lower does help with IATs in most situations. Of course, meth is the ultimate IAT solution for an ECS car.
I like iridium plugs myself. If Dave wants you to run a "7" range plug, maybe try an NGK TR7ix? That's basically an iridium version of the TR7.
I have a Diablosport tuner and I forgot about it. I can use it to do some basic datalogging. I'm about to get real busy here, but if I can find the time I will give it a try.
#31
Race Director
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St. Jude Donor '15
#33
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2013
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My fault on the rear o2s lol. But they only read catalytic converter efficiency. They are turned off on your car from the tune. You could actually unhook and remove them for race weight! Lol
#34
Instructor
#37
Drifting
Thread Starter
#38
Drifting
Thread Starter
#39
Drifting
Thread Starter
Those with a DeWitts radiator and an ECS kit. Do you have the standard size radiator or the shorty? If you run the shorty, do you have an aftermarket fan too? Thanks.