Anyone Install fuel system themselves?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Anyone Install fuel system themselves?
Hey guys wondering who has done there fuel system install themselves, either stage one type setup OR Fore type setup. Just curious how it worked out for you. Any issues with your tune afterwards? pros and cons?
#4
Team Owner
They are all pains in the ***. Done a few. Can be tricky, and easy to mess stuff up. Take your time and test as much stuff as you can before reassembly.
Tune issues? Shouldn't effect tune at all unless you are tuned with falling fuel pressure taken into account, in which case the new system will just make it run rich.
Tune issues? Shouldn't effect tune at all unless you are tuned with falling fuel pressure taken into account, in which case the new system will just make it run rich.
#6
Team Owner
Oring pinched, cut, not sealing. Leaks. Fuel level floats hung up on lines, plugged check valves, pump wiring not correct. Multimeter, battery to drive the pumps, etc. Can test a lot of that stuff outside the car if you want.
#7
Then breaking them again trying to muscle the crossover tube in.
#9
Team Owner
Depends on system. For a FPR system you need to drop both.
#10
#11
had an oring pinch and fuel leaked everywhere then someone overtightened the tank lid and the screw punched a hole in my tank causing me to have to buy a new tank pls b careful
#14
Supporting Vendor
I hate the plastic lines inside. I didn't want to remove the back end drivetrain, so I decided to redesign the way the lines go. I removed the plastic lines from inside the stainless hose and installed bulkhead fittings on the flat area around the factory fuel hats. Inside the tanks, I converted the plastic lines to AN using barbed fittings. If you heat them up carefully, they get soft enough to slide the barbed fittings into and once they cool, they're stuck. I ran lines outside the stainless crossover, leaving some slack that allows me to drop one tank without disconnecting anything. Removing the lines from the top of that tank, gives the slack back so that the other tank can be removed. I am considering doing this conversion on every car that I have to drop both tanks on.
I've got pics but I'll need to find time to dig them up and post them.
I've got pics but I'll need to find time to dig them up and post them.
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Offering products from A&A Superchargers, East Coast Superchargers, Mechman Alternators, Mantic clutches, RPS clutches, Kooks Headers, Lakewood, LG, Brian Tooley Racing, Comp Cams, FAST, ARP, UPP Turbo systems, Wiseco, Callies, K1, MAST Motorsports, Haltech and many more. PM me for details.
Offering products from A&A Superchargers, East Coast Superchargers, Mechman Alternators, Mantic clutches, RPS clutches, Kooks Headers, Lakewood, LG, Brian Tooley Racing, Comp Cams, FAST, ARP, UPP Turbo systems, Wiseco, Callies, K1, MAST Motorsports, Haltech and many more. PM me for details.
#15
Race Director
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St. Jude Donor '15
That sounds pretty slick--sub'd for pics
#16
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#17
Race Director
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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St. Jude Donor '15
I'd like to know how you get the fuel pump out without dropping the tank?
#18
Supporting Vendor
I shaved the factory seams down smooth before drilling the tanks. This allowed me to put the bulk head fittings where I wanted. The driver tank has a pair of Walbro 450's in it. No reason you can't do 3. I ran a Teflon plug into the tank specifically designed for installing into fuel tanks and maintaining a seal. They're expensive but I've found no better alternative so far. Cheaper, but not better. I have 4-10ga teflon coated wires in the plug so it's certainly enough to run 3 pumps.
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Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance; 05-17-2016 at 10:35 AM.
#19
Supporting Vendor