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How may saw an improvement with Dewitt's 2" shorter radiator?

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Old 06-24-2015, 05:42 PM
  #41  
Unreal
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I'll take some measurements tonight and probably ask you a few questions. How far from the edge of the radiator core to the shroud starts on your setup?
Old 06-24-2015, 09:34 PM
  #42  
Ultrasport05
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Originally Posted by Unreal
I'll take some measurements tonight and probably ask you a few questions. How far from the edge of the radiator core to the shroud starts on your setup?
I'm guessing you mean from the passenger side core to where the shroud starts on the top of the core? If so that distance is a hair under 4in.

Here is a side view for you to get an idea of what you'd need to change to make it work with your cut down rad. If it were me and I had somebody that could tig aluminum, I'd cut the top part that goes over the core and move it down the face of the shroud to where to need it to fit the cut down core, tack it then fill in the gap left with a sheet of similar aluminum. Hope that makes sense.



This is the area by the inlet that if modified slightly would make the shroud fit damn near perfectly(on a full size Dewitt's rad).


Last edited by Ultrasport05; 06-24-2015 at 09:44 PM.
Old 06-24-2015, 11:02 PM
  #43  
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So edge of radiator to edge of 4" inlet is 5". So would have to hack an inch off that, then fill in the gap, and extend the front down to meet with the radiator. Talking to my buddy to see if it is worth modding this or just making a complete custom shroud.
Old 06-24-2015, 11:20 PM
  #44  
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I can get shrouds made, waterjet the aluminum and done on a professional metal break. Would need ~10 made to make it realistic pricing.

Or get the dewitts and modify/weld it.




Old 06-24-2015, 11:23 PM
  #45  
Ultrasport05
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Originally Posted by Unreal
So edge of radiator to edge of 4" inlet is 5". So would have to hack an inch off that, then fill in the gap, and extend the front down to meet with the radiator. Talking to my buddy to see if it is worth modding this or just making a complete custom shroud.
The second picture I posted that shows the gap between where the shroud starts to the inner edge of the end tank. That gap is 4in. I'm not sure how good your fabricator is (assuming he's very good) but I'm guessing it would be rather easy for him to make one.

But modifying the shroud like I mentioned earlier would save you some trouble I think.

Edit: the picture above with the measurements is exactly ow I would do it. I think that would work perfect. You'll get need to bring the upper passanger side in far enough to clear your inlet tube.

Last edited by Ultrasport05; 06-25-2015 at 07:47 AM.
Old 06-25-2015, 11:16 AM
  #46  
adidasUNT8
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Originally Posted by Unreal
Nope, just took a saw and went to town.

Doesn't matter A&A or ECS, it isn't for more intercooler flow, but more flow to the radiator. It really opens up the front end and allows a lot more air up front.

Driving home today from work. Only 104F out. AC ice cold and tunes blasting.

Did you weld a piece back for added support?
Old 06-25-2015, 11:56 AM
  #47  
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Not yet, but that doesn't do anything but hold the bumper up. What is left is plenty strong to do that.
Old 06-25-2015, 03:28 PM
  #48  
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If someone draws this up I have a Water Jet & Tig guy,

He will make 10-12 units but he will give us pricing before hand
Old 06-25-2015, 04:26 PM
  #49  
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Same thing here, buddy has a water jet and tig, can do this all day but isn't worth it unless he can do 10. Otherwise he will just do 1 for me in exchange for beer and dinner.
Old 06-26-2015, 08:56 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Unreal
Not yet, but that doesn't do anything but hold the bumper up. What is left is plenty strong to do that.
Since the bumper support is hollow and not sealed off on the ends, do you think you'd lose a relevant amount by not having it sealed off? Did you see a significant change in IAT and Coolant temps after this mod?

Also would it be beneficial to trim out some of the bumper support padding because it covers part of the front of where we trimmed out. I assume that restricts a little more air? See pics below.







Old 06-26-2015, 10:14 AM
  #51  
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Not sure trimming the foam part would do much since the opening on the bumper over is below it anyways. I haven't messed with yet in person though so it would be interesting to know what others have done.

Pat G had some pretty huge changes in temps after doing this to his.
Old 06-26-2015, 10:41 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
Not sure trimming the foam part would do much since the opening on the bumper over is below it anyways. I haven't messed with yet in person though so it would be interesting to know what others have done.

Pat G had some pretty huge changes in temps after doing this to his.
Were you able to grab a "trace" or did you just make your own side pieces to channel the air better?
Old 06-26-2015, 11:25 AM
  #53  
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I trimmed the foam. You can trim a lot of it out to open up airflow.

Yes IATs and cooling is better.

Will call Dewitts later and see what they can do, and order a setup. Hopefully they can mod it, if not I'll do it myself. Without getting 10+ people it is just easier to modify what they have than make up a shroud from scratch.
Old 06-26-2015, 05:27 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Unreal
I trimmed the foam. You can trim a lot of it out to open up airflow.

Yes IATs and cooling is better.

Will call Dewitts later and see what they can do, and order a setup. Hopefully they can mod it, if not I'll do it myself. Without getting 10+ people it is just easier to modify what they have than make up a shroud from scratch.
Post pictures when you get the shroud.
Old 06-26-2015, 07:07 PM
  #55  
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Once they get back to me. No answer yet.
Old 06-26-2015, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
Once they get back to me. No answer yet.
Call and ask for John. That who I delt with and he would call me back if he wasn't there when I called. They are in The central time zone and close at 5pm I think.

Also I'm going too look into cutting out the cross member. Looks like it will be beneficial especially of you box in the rad like Pat G did.
Old 06-27-2015, 08:40 AM
  #57  
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John got back to me. He is going to have something made up Monday/Tuesday. I'm very excited. My car is worst case. High HP, iron block, super hot outside. I'm seeing 240F or so driving around with AC on. It was 113F yesterday, and last week 118-119 so looking forward to seeing the difference.

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Old 06-27-2015, 11:32 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Unreal
John got back to me. He is going to have something made up Monday/Tuesday. I'm very excited. My car is worst case. High HP, iron block, super hot outside. I'm seeing 240F or so driving around with AC on. It was 113F yesterday, and last week 118-119 so looking forward to seeing the difference.
Looking forward to what they/you come up with Nick.
Old 06-28-2015, 03:47 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by realcanuk


I think most that have cooling issues because of lack of fan shrouds, or improper setup, rather than the rad and fan itself.
To some degree I would say that Is correct , I do know thT the spal fans are 3200 Cfm a peice & both stock fans don't put out that kinda air / if u wanna knock the heat issue out in the summer time & run your Ac in stop & go traffic , ur best bet is using the 55gpm ewp Meizere & add the Dewitt's setup along with the top shroud & ur heating issues are past tense
Old 06-28-2015, 04:50 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by fsuforever
To some degree I would say that Is correct , I do know thT the spal fans are 3200 Cfm a peice & both stock fans don't put out that kinda air / if u wanna knock the heat issue out in the summer time & run your Ac in stop & go traffic , ur best bet is using the 55gpm ewp Meizere & add the Dewitt's setup along with the top shroud & ur heating issues are past tense
Granted it is not as hot as florida or texas here, but I have no issues at all. I run a full size dewitts, dual spals, and most importantly kept the stock shroud with some modifications.
It only averages about 80 here in summer, and 90 is about is high as it gets so I cant speak for anything warmer than that.


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