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OP, any pics on the rad install? Wanna see how difficult this was to tackle.. Tks!
Are you talking installing the shroud into the rad or the rad into the car? Rad into the car is pretty straight forward. I've never done one and I was able to do it. Basically remove the stock fan and work it out the bottom. Disconnect the hoses, unbolt the upper mounts that hold the rad down and slide the entire rad out the top. There may be an easier way but that's how I did it.
Last edited by Ultrasport05; 06-20-2015 at 03:48 PM.
Did you call the folks at Dewitt's! They're traditionally very easy to talk to.
Keith
I've exchanged multiple emails with John and he's been helpfully.
I realized this morning the fan still isn't running so I have to dig back into this. It's starting to **** me off. I'm going to pull the fan out and try and jump it to see of the fan itself is bad. I did order the 165-185* temp switch so I'll be able to see if the fan can come on earlier. If I still can't get it to work the stock fan is going back in until I can either get it to a shop or find the time to get it to work. Not having a car is getting old.
Are you talking installing the shroud into the rad or the rad into the car? Rad into the is pretty straight forward. I've never done one and I was able to do it. Basically remove the stock fan and work it out the bottom. Disconnect the hoses, unbolt the upper mounts that hold the rad down and slide the entire rad out the top. There may be an easier way but that's how I did it.
Ok thanks sounds easy, just did my Hayabusa rad and it was a b to say the least with no space to work with..
So an update....I ordered a new temp sensor which should be here tomorrow. Going to install that and try to jump the fan. If it doesn't work then The only other idea I could think of is that the fan is bad. If that's the case I'll talk with Dewitt's and see what they want to do about it. The stock fan will go back in in the mean time.
I got the fan to work tonight using the blue switch wire. I did move the switched power from the wiper motor fuse to the emissions which is #14 I believe. The fuel pump and wiper motor fuse locations are hot even with the ignition off so the fan will keep running after the car is shut down until the coolant temp goes down lower than the minimum value of the sensor's range.
The reason the fan didn't run was because it was rubbing against the rad core keeping it from starting to spin and not letting it ramp up in speed. After the Shroud was cut, the drivers side of it was open and allowed it to be pushed too close to the rad core by Z06 oil cooler and thus caused the fan to rub. So all of my wiring was good.
I've spoken with Dewitt's about a new shroud that will fit with centri blowers. As I found out cutting the shroud wasn't the best idea after all but I didn't have a choice at the time. I'll keep everyone updated with what they come up with.
Lastly this fan moves a LOT of air! I'm very excited to get it installed and do some testing in traffic to see how temps are affected. I'm not really looking for them to go down while cruising as much as I want the temp I'm at to be maintained with the AC on when I come to a stop. Again when I get the fan installed with the new shroud I will update everyone with my findings.
I would order one right now if they made one that fit a centri and a cut down dewitts. That is the #1 combo people are going to want yet companies don't get that.
I would order one right now if they made one that fit a centri and a cut down dewitts. That is the #1 combo people are going to want yet companies don't get that.
That's what we are working on. They made up a new shroud for me and I'll have it Installed Saturday. I'll take lots of pictures. One of the big thing I was trying to push with them was getting a shroud that fit centri blowers because I feel 90% of potential buyers have an intercooler blocking their rad and most will be centri blowers.
Not sure about the cut down rad fitment. I talked to Dewitt's before I bought anything and they said the brushless fan is 17in and the cut down rad core is only 15in tall so it hangs off a bit. They may be able to just modify the top part of the Version 2 shroud I'm getting to make it work with the cut down rad. I will be sure to talk to John about it after I test fitment on the new shroud Saturday.
Unreal, I took your advise about getting the regular sized core and just running the ECS intake pipe. I'm under 800rwhp so I don't need a 4in intake pipe. That is how I ended up with the combo I have.
Which is great and I would do the same, but for 1000+hp people we want as much as possible. I already mocked up one of the 17" fans on my core. The overhang isn't bad and just box it in up from the core. Shouldn't be a big deal.
Did you call the folks at Dewitt's! They're traditionally very easy to talk to.
Keith
We can make it anyway you want. We just came up with this package for standard (non-blower) cars. This brushless fan is fairly deep and we wanted to avoid any interference issues with ABS on the left side.
We can make it anyway you want. We just came up with this package for standard (non-blower) cars. This brushless fan is fairly deep and we wanted to avoid any interference issues with ABS on the left side.
Tom I didn't have any issues with the ABS getting in the way when I cut the shroud and moved the fan all the way over to the driver side of the car. I'll have the new shroud John had made up for me installed Saturday and I'll verify abs module clearance among other things
I got the new shroud installed today. It went in easy enough and fits very well. THe fan clears the ABS module by about 1/2in and it clears the blower by plenty. The only issue I had was the area where the inlet dongle sits behind the rad. Not really a big deal, I just had to push the rad forward slightly to get the inlet seated and cranked down. Over very well fitting. I confirmed fitment with an ECS kit only so I'm not sure on fitment for an A&A or procharger but I can't imagine the fitment would be too far off. The inlet is where Im unsure of for A&A and procharger kits fitment.
Also, I have a Z06 oil cooler mounted with the ECS relocation brackets and it just barely fits with the new fan. I was able to get 3 of the 4 bolts back in and it holds the cooler just fine.
I do recommend testing the fan off of the car to confirm everything works before installing everything like I did. Save yourself the *** pain if it's not right. I hooked the two harnesses to their power and ground sources, connected the white wires and used the blue wire to activate the fan.
Final wiring connections I made
Fan harness
. Red wire connected to the lug on the fuse box
. Black wire connected to the chassis ground on the passanger frame rail
. White wire connected to white wire on sensor harness
. Yellow wire not used
Temp sensor harness
. Red wire connected to switched power via fuse location #14 emission control( I used an add a circuit)
. Black wire connected to chassis ground on passanger frame rail
. White wire connected to white wire on fan harness
. Blue wire was not used but a switch can be wired in
I haven't really had a chance to go drive anywhere but I did drive on base a little and the coolant temps never went above 190*. It's 90 here and humid today. John @ Dewitt's customer servise was outstanding. He was always helpful and got me what I wanted with this fan setup. After a few emails about getting a blower friendly shroud, he had a new shroud delivered to me in Florida from Michigan. I gave him confirmation I needed a new shroud on a Tuesday and he had a new one in my hand that Friday. Pretty awesome in my book.
Last edited by Ultrasport05; 06-21-2015 at 11:41 AM.
Awesome, thanks for the wiring instructions. I like the way it will keep running after car is shut off. Did you put a fuse on red wire after hot lug?
Yes I put an inline fuse holder with a 30AMP fuse between the lug and the fan.
The fan does run after the car is shut off which I like. My stock fan was set to run after the car is turned off so nothing changed with this new setup. It runs for about 2min then shuts off. I'm guessing the car keeps the power at the fuse box until the stock fan was supposed to shut off and since that's where I get my switched power it keeps the new fan on after I shut the car off.
Last edited by Ultrasport05; 06-21-2015 at 02:30 PM.
Just went for a drive. The car said it was 96* here and it's really humid. With the AC off the highest coolant temps I saw was 196* and with the AC on 217*. The car used to run 208* with the air off and would run 220 and spike to 230+ when I came to a stop with the air on. The fan is doing its job well.
Did you cut through one layer in the coupler where you installed the meth nozzle?
The shop that did the install decide to cut out a small hole in the coupler instead of just making the coupler shorter. It look ghetto but I don't care since only lift my hood to work on the car. The metal charge tube is under the coupler where the nozzle is so the nozzle is attached to the metal pipe not the coupler.
I'll have to measure. I think with the corner where it narrows trimmed off, and then just a plate to go down to the 2" shorter this would work fine. Only need clearance by the intake so being tall elsewhere doesn't matter.
The shop that did the install decide to cut out a small hole in the coupler instead of just making the coupler shorter. It look ghetto but I don't care since only lift my hood to work on the car. The metal charge tube is under the coupler where the nozzle is so the nozzle is attached to the metal pipe not the coupler.
I'll have to measure. I think with the corner where it narrows trimmed off, and then just a plate to go down to the 2" shorter this would work fine. Only need clearance by the intake so being tall elsewhere doesn't matter.
I was able to get the dongle on somewhat easily. I wanted to see if I could make it work without cutting the shroud again. It would be pretty easy to modify to make your inlet work Unreal. If you need a specific picture to help let me know.
06-10-2015, 12:12 PM
