schpenxel

On mine the idler was still there, just basically tilted sideways towards the head unit. I didn't see it until after the belt was snapped, so I have no idea what it looked like before that.

DOUG @ ECS

Interesting, I'm going to sit down with the crew here and make some decisions, odd that this is just now becoming an issue, but regardless we'll look into this.

neverstop

for whatever it's worth the tensioner on my procharger A&A backet was also bent recently for no good reason too, it's the old style bracket and i know they have since upgraded the tensioner setup on all new brackets but just making the point that this is not an ECS specific issue as all the blower kit providers have had past issues with tensioners.

DOUG @ ECS

This is a bolt breaking on an idler, not the tensioner. I'm wondering if we changed hardware manufactures or something for this to be an issue now after the kit being this same way for years. I'll get to the bottom of it.

Unreal

ARP L19 tensioner bolt

schpenxel

I replaced mine with a cheap'o bolt from Lowes and I haven't had any problems since. I don't remember the grade #'s, but the replacement was a lower grade bolt than the one that came with the kit (because that's all Lowe's had in a full threaded version)

My belief is the portion of the bolt that threads into the idler is coming loose when people are tightening the nut that holds the manual tensioner still. This creates a small gap between the idler and the bracket. This makes it possible for the tension on the idler to bend the bolt, causing it to eventually break. If it's tight, it can't bend, and the only way it's breaking is if there is enough force to basically shear the bolt in half.

Given that this portion of the belt is on the "loose" section of belt, I don't see it having enough force to shear the bolt

I would have to take a better look at it to be sure I'm remembering how it works properly, but that is my best guess going from what I remember when I replaced mine.

Xtremespeed

That is exactly what I've been trying to bring to everyone's attention. I don't think the bolts are bad. It doesn't have to be very loose to put a lot of extra stress on it and unless it's really tight, that nyloc nut has just enough grip to back the bolt out slightly before the nut gets tight. Some loctite on the bolt where it threads into the bracket and replacing the nyloc nut with a regular nut and lock washer fixed the issue for me so far.

M M Alexander

I used a B7 bolt - the local bolt supply warehouse did not have any "all threaded" grade 8 in 3/8" 16 3.5" - B7 is 97K versus the Grade 8 being 130K. I used a regular nut and lock washer as opposed to the nyloc along with thread lock where the bolt screws thru the bracket as Xtreme did. The car now makes a solid 12 psi and the belt alignment has held steady.

Yahelou

basically the same as mine. dealt with this last month. and also with my friends car a couple of months before then.

didnt realize the bolt was broken until I saw the belt was off a rib.

schpenxel

Yep! I completely understand what you're saying now. Whenever I have the manual tensioner loose on mine again I'll probably go with some loctite on the portion of the bolt that threads into the tensioner and/or switch to a different type of nut on the end, like you had suggested. Can't hurt.

This is looking like a pretty common issue. Will be interesting to see what changes are or aren't made to help.

DOUG @ ECS

What we have decided on, which is exactly what you guys have concluded as well it appears, is that the bolt must be backing out a bit. It's the only thing that makes sense.

We are going to assemble them with a really hard lock tight and if anything in the assembly every needs replacing like an idler, we will just send the entire assembly.

Thanks for your input guys, we appreciate it.

schpenxel

Good to see you are improving the system.

Any particular kind of loctite? I was going to just put regular red loctite on mine next time I have it off (which is hopefully no time soon!)

Xtremespeed

Thanks Doug. I think the loctite will probably do the job. Switching from the nyloc nut to a regular nut with a lock washer also seems to help.

I used loctite 272 which is for bolts over 1" but the normal 271 should be plenty. You just have to let it set up a little.

Nosferatu

yup bolt snapped right in the center FSP showed it to me when I went to pick up the car

schpenxel

Wonder why it happened to so many of us all at once? If I ever have that off I may try to find a stronger bolt to use in the future. I'm not sure what's above grade 8 though?

M M Alexander

There's not much in SAE above Grade 8. There are 9 and 10.9 but they're not readily available & most likely not in 3/8"

1MEANGS

My bolt is missing the spacer... Wounder if that's a big deal, I have to change mine out cuz the bolt got stripped I always used the size wrenched that was in instructions / belt video but I always seemed a little too large and that bottom bolt the head got stripped and I need to change, the top bolt seems to fit the wrench better tho! What size wrench are you guys using?

schpenxel

Ah.. well, that sucks then! Grade 8 should work, though.

You mean the thick washer that is under the head of the bolt in the picture above?

1MEANGS

Yea the washer... Did I say spacer lol, I'm still tired from corvettes @ Carlisle ahaha

Yahelou

so do u recommend applying loctite on the bolt thats already installed or leaving it as is?