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IT happened to me as well. Replaced the belt, the bolt, and the idler pulley. Also used loctite for a peace of mind. So far so good. But only time will tell.
My bolt is missing the spacer... Wounder if that's a big deal, I have to change mine out cuz the bolt got stripped I always used the size wrenched that was in instructions / belt video but I always seemed a little too large and that bottom bolt the head got stripped and I need to change, the top bolt seems to fit the wrench better tho! What size wrench are you guys using?
The bolts are really a 9/16" head, but I've forced a 14mm on there more than a few times and it will barely go on (but it won't slip). If you're using a 15mm then that's too big
My B7 - bought in 4" and cut off 3/8" or so. Used with a flat washer under the bolt head along with a flat washer, lock washer and a regular B7 nut on the other end. Used Red Loc-Tite on the threaded section that passes through the SC bracket.
So far, so good and I'm fairly confident that it will hold up just fine for the long haul.
I had mine break last night on the way home from a cruise in. Called Chris at ECS this morning for a replacement bolt and idler and ask for it to ship today because Monday is a holiday and I am trying to get ready for the Holley LS Fest next weekend.
I had mine break last night on the way home from a cruise in. Called Chris at ECS this morning for a replacement bolt and idler and ask for it to ship today because Monday is a holiday and I am trying to get ready for the Holley LS Fest next weekend.
Wow. Wonder why this never got posted before? Or maybe they got a bad batch of bolts, who knows.
I'm tempted to tighten/loctite mine this weekend just to be sure it isn't going anywhere.
seems like all of this is just from the bolt coming loose, if were me I'd think you could just slide some open ends in there, loosen the bolt a bit and drop loctite down on it, tighten it all up and let sit over night and forget about all of this and call it done?
seems like all of this is just from the bolt coming loose, if were me I'd think you could just slide some open ends in there, loosen the bolt a bit and drop loctite down on it, tighten it all up and let sit over night and forget about all of this and call it done?
Not enough room with it installed. You can grind down a wrench and barely squeeze it in there enough to tighten it, but there's not enough room to unscrew/loctite it without removing the head unit or at least taking the bolts out so you can move it around. I may do that on mine this weekend just to be sure they aren't going anywhere
Me too. I wish ECS would provide us some clarification if we should do this or leave the installed bolts alone.
Like I said earlier, we have not seen this issue here, but as they say "an ounce of prevention..". So to take a few minutes and check to make sure that bolt is tight certainly can't hurt.
I also checked into if we changed hardware manufacturers and we have not. Same we have been using for years.
So all we can conclude is that we will lock tight the hardware here and replace the nut with a std nut and lock washer instead of the nylon lock washer.
Like I said earlier, we have not seen this issue here, but as they say "an ounce of prevention..". So to take a few minutes and check to make sure that bolt is tight certainly can't hurt.
I also checked into if we changed hardware manufacturers and we have not. Same we have been using for years.
So all we can conclude is that we will lock tight the hardware here and replace the nut with a std nut and lock washer instead of the nylon lock washer.
I definitely think this is the way to go. If your setup has been together for a good length of time, I wouldn't pull it apart to loctite it. It's not an issue of the bolt coming loose when driving the car, but an issue of it coming loose when you tighten the manual tensioner adjustment.
Add mine to the list. 2008 A6, ECS kit installed in June. Heard a rattle & the tensioner bolt had broken. Would a grade 10 bolt work in place of the grade 8?
08-31-2015, 02:34 PM
