LS2 402 Ysi build underway!!!
#22
#23
Pro
Thread Starter
#24
Just so everybody knows.... I took some of the advice here. I just ordered a&a stage 2 fuel system, the alky twin nozzle meth kit, and the auto meter dual gauge pod with the cobalt boost gauge!!! Skipped on the 3.85 pulley went with a 3.0 pulley and aiming for around 17 psi and close to 900!!!!!! Cheers guys. The wife is going to kill me lol!!!!!
good call! that thing is going to be mean! you'll probably save money doing it right that way once too
#25
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St. Jude Donor '15
Good deal! Have you taken into consideration bumping the compression ratio up a bit?
#27
Safety Car
Bump the compression and you'll be set.
#28
Just so everybody knows.... I took some of the advice here. I just ordered a&a stage 2 fuel system, the alky twin nozzle meth kit, and the auto meter dual gauge pod with the cobalt boost gauge!!! Skipped on the 3.85 pulley went with a 3.0 pulley and aiming for around 17 psi and close to 900!!!!!! Cheers guys. The wife is going to kill me lol!!!!!
With a 3" pulley it is unlikely you will see 900whp with compression that low. If you have fuel to support it, go straight to a 2.75" and be done. When it comes to tuning, give it what it wants. Do not listen to these people that say there is a "limit" for safe timing. If its not showing any knock and its still picking up power, let it eat. With the compression as low as it is, don't be surprised if you never see knock or any signs of detonation, especially with that much methanol. It will likely just stop making power somewhere around 22-23 Degrees of peak timing, do not listen to these people that say you cant do that. If the car likes it, it likes it... You can also run the car much leaner when you are spraying that much methanol without worrying about it, just make sure your rings are up to the heat. Stainless rings suck, they get hot and curl up. Ductile Iron or tool steel top rings will take much more abuse.
If your engine isn't built yet, I would REALLY advise you to bump that compression.
#29
Pro
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#30
Pro
Thread Starter
With a 3" pulley it is unlikely you will see 900whp with compression that low. If you have fuel to support it, go straight to a 2.75" and be done. When it comes to tuning, give it what it wants. Do not listen to these people that say there is a "limit" for safe timing. If its not showing any knock and its still picking up power, let it eat. With the compression as low as it is, don't be surprised if you never see knock or any signs of detonation, especially with that much methanol. It will likely just stop making power somewhere around 22-23 Degrees of peak timing, do not listen to these people that say you cant do that. If the car likes it, it likes it... You can also run the car much leaner when you are spraying that much methanol without worrying about it, just make sure your rings are up to the heat. Stainless rings suck, they get hot and curl up. Ductile Iron or tool steel top rings will take much more abuse.
If your engine isn't built yet, I would REALLY advise you to bump that compression.
If your engine isn't built yet, I would REALLY advise you to bump that compression.
#31
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St. Jude Donor '15
What's the big improvement with upping the compression? I've seen some builds on here with similar low compression making over 900 on a similar build. I'm still thinking I'll make over 850 or so and that's fine for me. The car will never see the track. Just a few 60 roll races is about it. I'm thinking I'll be quite happy with that. School me though and tell me what I would need to do to get the compression up to say 9.5 to 1 or 10.0 to 1. I know different heads will do it but is there other ways??
I won't pretend to be an expert on building FI LS engines.. but some of the guys on here have built quite a few, so they are only trying to help
That, and everyone always has to critique everyone else's build, lol. Just the nature of the beast around here.
#32
I'm just curious what everyone thinks some bigger headers(2" primaries) would do on this combo. I understand they may be out of the budget but I'm curious and its somewhat on topic.
#33
Pro
Thread Starter
hey bud. so what about drive train upgrades? what would you do. the cars drivetrain is completely stock. keep in mind the car will never see the track. just a few green lights and highway driving. im installing a new slave and throw out bearing when I install the tick and new clutch as well. will I need a new reinforced torque tube and pilot bearing? ive heard people put in hardened half shafts as well. ill have to do all this next year obviously but just trying to put together a parts list for the spring.
#34
Le Mans Master
Nothing. Driveline will be fine. You should be around 800-850rwhp. Never had an issue with my stock driveline at that power, especially if you're on the street.
#35
Build
I have the same setup mine is a402 ls3 but have ecs kit car made 853 on dyno but ran out of fuel. So iam going to add a fuel system should be right under 900 iam going to add a 100 shot too. Good luck man
Last edited by killakane1427; 07-18-2015 at 10:50 AM.
#36
Pro
Thread Starter
just out of curiosity what compression are you running. i've gone with the a&a stage 2 fuel system so im hoping for close to 900 rwhp. I see realcanuck is making over 1000 with a 3.0 pulley. to be honest anything over 800 and ill be happy.
#37
Pro
Thread Starter
ive just ordered the auto meter dual gauge pod with the cobalt boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge. ive noticed though that when installing the stage 2 fuel system the line connects to the shrader valve on the fuel rail. but according to the instructions from the a&a website the fuel pressure gauge line is suppose to connect to the shrader valve area. just wondering where I should hook up the fuel pressure gauge line now????
#38
Le Mans Master
Wouldn't get too hung up on the numbers. Every dyno is different as is every build combo.
#40
I don't remember the numbers its on a safe nice tune