ProEFI

I had no luck with the RPS so I go for Mantic now and there spec E-trim can hold it too, if you're going to a shortcut directly the end of this chapter with Tilton

1SwtRide

OP, if you have anyone near you with a mantic triple, definitely try to get behind their wheel. If you want to go to ECS, I'm happy to let you take a short spin. The mantic triple is by far the best clutch for high torque/hp builds. Good luck!

Icevettez06

So it seem like there are few recommending Mantic 9000 triple I assume.

Mantic 9000 triple $2450
RPS triple $2800
Centerforce DYAD $1715

Witch of those are the best for street and strip?

Icevettez06

Doug you must have some info on 60” time on cars using this clutch? Are they easy of the line or do they come in to strong and loose traction?

Icevettez06

Thanks. No one have Mantic in me country. I might just jump on a air plane and so I can take you car for spin

Icevettez06

What did you not like on your RPS? Was it RPS triple?

inspector12

I drove a few RPS triples and my biggest complaint is consistency. Everyone I tried felt different and most chattered real bad, but a few were smooth?? But I refused to pay that kind of money and not know what I'm going to get. I took the spec twin out of my car cause it chattered so bad. The closest clutch to the DYAD I can think of how it drives it the RXT you just had but the Centerforce is a little lighter on the petal and a tad smoother. The RXT is probably a lot closer feel to the DYAD DFX really. Its up to you but I'm telling you its hard to beat them for the performance and the cost. Never driven a Mantic so I can't tell you about them other than they look nice in the pictures. I've driven a ton of cars with a million different clutches so I'm not just an individual who had a single clutch installed I do run a shop from my house since 1995, its small and mostly by word of mouth.GL! Hope all the info just didn't confuse you on what your going to get lol !

ProEFI

yes sir it was triple and I didn't said I didn't like it but I said I don't have a luck with this clutch lose 3 of them 2 was on supercharge cars and one was on nitrous C5Z


supercharge was perfect until we spray an extra 150 shoot it's start losing, and the other supercharged car lose it at the first dyno, for the nitroused C5Z it was working well on dual stages on dyno and at the event clutch died as soon as the driver hit the 2nd stage.


FYI: all the cars I mentioned was between 1450-1600 WHP.

inspector12

Sorry just saw this, but I haven't been back to the track yet with this DYAD DFX. I did go with the standard organic DYAD and on the 900-950 RWHP setting I was slipping it pretty good to save all my stock drive train I went 10.10@155mph I think. 1.89 60' I did get a 1.69 60' but the trans locked me out in two gears ran 10.30 @ 140mph. I did everything not recommended to do with the clutch IE: slipped it a lot and it was hot etc... but it held up well considering. I have everything in the drivetrain build so I do plan on going to see what I can run at the track in the future. So far I've made 149xrwhp on the DFX and its holding up great so far. Bryan and Will at Centerforce have helped me out a lot providing me pretty accurate info before I purchased both of there clutches. So last thing I thought I'd be recommending was a Centerforce like 5 years ago. but now I'm having a hard time recommending anything else for most of the higher HP cars I've been working on lately. There are less expensive good clutches for the lower HP cars but a DYAD would be right at home in them as well. I ran the RPS light its a decent clutch only rated @800-850 if but one disc is organic and the other is a ceramic metallic compound etc... drives nice for sure but not a great track clutch for sure. They don't sell them any more. GL!

winters97gt

Jeff, I'd like to stop by the shop and check out the car with your clutch. Maybe just around the block after we get out of the sticks to see what a quick release feels like just to 20-30mph in the car even riding shotgun. Before I tear in to mine, I'd like some first hand experience. I've been through and raced a lot of clutches too, not as many as you, but it's hard to squeeze the trigger at 900-1000rwhp when your go to clutch and the customer support isn't there. It will probably be 3 weeks from this weekend, since I'm in prime fishing season.

inspector12

Sure. Just give me a ring and see if we can get together.

Blackonblacksls

I think the best option is call ECS and order the mantic...

once you buy one. It will likely become the only thing you ever want to use or reccomend.

MyLS1Hauls

The RPS is hands down the most impressive clutch I've driven. The lightweight disks make it shift lightening quick, and the carbon on carbon surfaces are the most forgiving to slippage/heat. Nothing is going to warp. My only complaints are the heavy pedal and the price...but carbon/carbon is very expensive and time intensive to produce. The ones I've driven have had ZERO chatter. My buddy removed his RXT due to chatter, and installed an RPS triple. I have never seen it chatter once. He did take the time to break it in correctly, to make sure all the friction surfaces were fully seated, before slipping it hard. This is essential for long clutch life.

The pedal travel is very short, and you should run a pedal stop because of it. It does take some time to get used to. A smaller bore master cylinder would be perfect, as it would lengthen the travel a bit and lessen the effort...but nobody makes one.

I will say that I've never driven a Mantic twin/triple. I would like to test drive one, but I don't like ceramic friction material. Every brand I've ever driven with ceramic has chattered on take off. I may be interested in their organic disk twin, as I'm in the market for a street clutch for my NA Z. A $2500 RPS twin is a waste for a purely street car, IMO.

Icevettez06

What to do!!

I would have thought I would get more response from people that have been using RPS on the dragstrip! Maybe not to may doing that out there taking their cars to the strip.

Doug@ECS and many more recommend Mantic 9000 but what about real would data from the strip!! It is not the same to do some roll on the street as going to the strip were you have extreme grip which will stress your clutch. I cannot go with Mantic without some reference other than street drive. I do not care if the clutch is stiffer than stock ( not to many stock parts left in the car anyhow)

I do not want to spend mor than I need but I only want to do this once.

DOUG @ ECS

I used to feel the same way about ceramic clutches... prior to using Mantic clutches. Take a test drive in a Mantic car if you get a chance.

There is a ton of track results on the board with the Mantic's now. I have personally cut a 1.42 with a twin disc with a 28" tire, ZR1 trans ratio's and 3.42 gears. Not exactly the 60'ing combo, yet it did quiet well IMO.
The slip off the line is great and the separation at WOT is great.

0SNL/MonsterClutchCo

Monster has a couple of reasonably priced clutches, for your setup./

However, what kind of power are you going to be making? How is the car going to be driven? Also feel free to give us a call if you want to go over details. (817-750-2000).

Icevettez06

Most of me driving Street with some drag racing and track as well. Power is in the 900- 1000rwhp rang I think. Car is 3650 lb 402 with twin APS/DKT 6266.

Unreal

Wouldn't touch a CF with a 10ft pole. Do some more searching on failed DYADs.

Icevettez06

DYAD is out.

inspector12

Yeah well most of the ones I've herd about were some questionable issues either with break in or installation. Not all, but the majority I'v gotten info on. Not saying its the best clutch ever, but for the money its hard to beat.

OP GL! I'm sure you'll find something to work for you there's a lot out there currently.