ERL Superdeck I and oil pressure?
#1
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ERL Superdeck I and oil pressure?
Well I recently picked my car up from a complete overhaul (new ERL Superdeck, TF heads, etc.) the car also has an ECS 1500 and all the other goodies. I took the car to the grocery store this morning trying to put some break-in miles on it and started having some issues that could possibly be of concern. Since I picked it up (about 55 miles ago) I've noticed that it's very difficult to start and I have to more or less prime it seemingly to get it to start, otherwise it just sits there trying to start until it times itself out. I hadn't paid much attention until this morning, but when I first started the car the oil pressure seemed to be around 28-30psi. I didn't think anything of it, being in the high 90's right now I figured that could be normal. However, when I pulled back into my driveway after about a 20 minute round trip my oil pressure had dipped at idle to 17-18psi @ 205-210 engine oil temp. I let the car sit for 30-45 minutes, and restarted. Took three times to get the car started, and when it finally cranked it showed about 21psi on the dash. I've let the car sit again for about 3 hours and I now have about 27psi at idle. I understand that with higher temperatures the resistance, and thus oil pressure will be lower, but I've never owned this expensive of a set-up and this seems quite low to me for a brand new engine. Any help is appreciated, and I apologize for the lengthy post.
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St. Jude Donor '15
The oil pressure issue I can't really say much about. It doesn't sound low enough to be a problem to me, but that's just my opinion. What's it look like while driving?
The starting issue is more than likely tune related and totally separate from the oil pressure issue.
What was your previous setup and were any adjustments made to the tune between the two?
The starting issue is more than likely tune related and totally separate from the oil pressure issue.
What was your previous setup and were any adjustments made to the tune between the two?
#3
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The oil pressure issue I can't really say much about. It doesn't sound low enough to be a problem to me, but that's just my opinion. What's it look like while driving?
The starting issue is more than likely tune related and totally separate from the oil pressure issue.
What was your previous setup and were any adjustments made to the tune between the two?
The starting issue is more than likely tune related and totally separate from the oil pressure issue.
What was your previous setup and were any adjustments made to the tune between the two?
#4
Melting Slicks
Oil Pressure
I have an ERL SD1 with the LS7 dry sump. With the factory pump I had the same oil pressure as you. However, while I was doing something else I switched to the Katech Red Pump which has 20% more volume/pressure and now my oil pressure 200 hot - is like 23 instead of 18 and 55 instead of 45 (at 5,000 rpm). Basically when you go to the aftermarket set up the bearing clearances are larger thus loss of pressure. Not sure what pump you have in there or if you are dry sump but the stock pump is probably not enough for that lower end.
#5
I have an ERL dry sleeve M2 with a ported LS pump and my idle pressure is around 40psi, at highway speeds its around 65psi.
#6
Drifting
Yeah I've had multiple AL. motors with what most consider low oil pressure. But when making more power you need bigger clearances to a point. I don't think yours it too far off though. Like some one mentioned, you didn't state what oil pump setup your running on your car as it does make a difference. On my wet sump motor it was like 20-24 cold and 10-16 hot depending on the temp of the oil etc... But it never blew up and I did plenty to try lol! A few things to make sure you have done is 1.oil cooler 2. Good oil and probably a little thicker than what you were used to running. Like the Rotella 15-40 or the T6 5-40 area few I've run. Valvoline Racing 20w-50VR1 is another that I've had good success with. GL! Don't let the pressure bother you to much, for peace of mind cut the oil filter and look for signs of any trash or bearing material.
#7
I have had an ERL 434 Superdeck I in my previous car and I did have a Melling oil pump give me trouble within the first few hundred miles. My oil pressure wasn't as low as your seeing, but the pump would seem to stick over relief at about 45#'s not allowing pressure to rise when revs went up. Regardless, there are some things to consider:
- As inspector stated, with built motors clearances can be/are greater leading to lower oil pressure and that is not an issue. Also, if you talk to big power engine builders like say, Reher Morrison, they will tell you loser tolerances make more power.
- Not sure what oil you are running, but thinner oil will maintain less pressure. Not saying it's the end all be all, but I ran 10w40 Amsoil (and still do).
- Also, not sure what oil pump you're running, but you may want to make sure it is operating correctly.
All this said, it seems as though it isn't overtly out of line considering the high oil temps. I'd possibly try a thicker oil, this should both increase pressure, and should decrease oil temps.
- As inspector stated, with built motors clearances can be/are greater leading to lower oil pressure and that is not an issue. Also, if you talk to big power engine builders like say, Reher Morrison, they will tell you loser tolerances make more power.
- Not sure what oil you are running, but thinner oil will maintain less pressure. Not saying it's the end all be all, but I ran 10w40 Amsoil (and still do).
- Also, not sure what oil pump you're running, but you may want to make sure it is operating correctly.
All this said, it seems as though it isn't overtly out of line considering the high oil temps. I'd possibly try a thicker oil, this should both increase pressure, and should decrease oil temps.
#8
if you want just for peace of mind there are places that are cheap you can send your oil out and they test it for metals etc to catch abnormal wear before it gets too bad. with a bran new motor i'm sure the oil will look all sorts of weird in their tests but i'd call the engine builder and then after 1-2 oil changes just get in the habbit of sending the tests out to keep track of internal engine health.
#9
Melting Slicks
Another test
I think the idle is one test. Test it at 5,000 rpm hot and make sure you have like 50 psi or so. The general rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1,000 rpm.
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I'll have to look at my build sheet and see exactly what I have in there as far as an oil pump, but I'm pretty certain we did go with an aftermarket setup. inspector12, I've seen your cars and know they run very strong, I live off Pearland Parkway and have met you a couple of times. I'll do some more inspecting and record more data for piece of mind. I'm going to change the oil in a couple hundred miles and see if there is any difference.
#11
Drifting
I'll have to look at my build sheet and see exactly what I have in there as far as an oil pump, but I'm pretty certain we did go with an aftermarket setup. inspector12, I've seen your cars and know they run very strong, I live off Pearland Parkway and have met you a couple of times. I'll do some more inspecting and record more data for piece of mind. I'm going to change the oil in a couple hundred miles and see if there is any difference.
Jeff