Which Turbo Kit to Buy
09-17-2015, 03:31 PM
#41
Drifting
I should be hitting the dyno this weekend. I'll post up the pull, I'm turning it up to around 800 (stock motor). I think you'll be surprised how quick it spools. And I'm not sure about you guys but when I race my car it never sees low rpms. Also, I can build boost on the launch easily with my 2 step.
09-18-2015, 09:21 AM
#42
Le Mans Master
I'm not at all saying that they don't make power. Just the spool time is lacking, and the overall efficiency of the system is lacking when in comparison to a proper turbo setup. I know many of them have made power, some alot of power due to the available room in the back for giant turbos compared to what you can acceptably fit under a hood up front. But if you don't need that big of a turbo, and there are other options available, I don't see why you would choose a less efficient system...
....it's like still using dialup...
CK
....it's like still using dialup...
CK
All that is made up in tuning as my four foot charge pipes cool the air prior to even seeing an intercooler. The result is 5-10* over ambient AIT at cruise and moderate driving. Im making something silly like 1200rwhp on gate pressure of 11psi
With rolling antilag there is no more waiting to spool, just release the switch and go, quickly
@07:02 I use antilag and run through some gears at 1400rwhp on rear mounted 80mm turbos
Perhaps the notion of lag and inefficiency was true a few years ago but with modern technology its pretty insignificant now
Last edited by SinisterC6; 09-18-2015 at 09:38 AM.
09-19-2015, 12:28 AM
#43
Racer
What kit are you using? I'm super interested in the STS rear mounted kit. I'll also be going with oil-less turbos. Rick Squires who re-purchased STS recently and is starting to re-start production on the kits said that he deals with Comp Turbos and suggests I upgrade from 1.75 inch diameter turbo piping to 2.0 inches to feed to turbos. He said I can't go bigger than 2.0 due to fitment constraints.
I'm not sure if I should go with his recommended Comp turbos. I feel like spending the extra money to custom fab his pipes to accommodate Garret oil-less turbos would be worth it and allow me to sleep better at night since they are an OEM turbo supplier.
What are your thoughts guys? I'm new to the turbo game.
I'm not sure if I should go with his recommended Comp turbos. I feel like spending the extra money to custom fab his pipes to accommodate Garret oil-less turbos would be worth it and allow me to sleep better at night since they are an OEM turbo supplier.
What are your thoughts guys? I'm new to the turbo game.
09-19-2015, 05:23 AM
#44
09-19-2015, 12:08 PM
#45
Melting Slicks
Proper rear mount graph. They work great if you take the time to do it right. On the street spool time is insane. Stock bottom end 5.3/7175 combo i used last year.
Last edited by DANZGLASS; 09-19-2015 at 12:10 PM.
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C6 Curtis (09-19-2015)
09-22-2015, 02:44 PM
#46
Former Vendor
09-22-2015, 03:03 PM
#48
Former Vendor
Oh I caught that.....but I'm pushing just under 700 on my stock 4.8L with 12psi, and that's through an 4L80E auto....
I'm sure there's more to it, but as you can see efficiency plays a big roll.....
And yes you can ceramic coat, and heat wrap, and anti-lag, but all of those options are still available on a proper turbo setup as well. And when comparing apples to apples, there is a huge difference.
CK
I'm sure there's more to it, but as you can see efficiency plays a big roll.....
And yes you can ceramic coat, and heat wrap, and anti-lag, but all of those options are still available on a proper turbo setup as well. And when comparing apples to apples, there is a huge difference.
CK
09-22-2015, 03:09 PM
#49
Drifting
Oh I caught that.....but I'm pushing just under 700 on my stock 4.8L with 12psi, and that's through an 4L80E auto....
I'm sure there's more to it, but as you can see efficiency plays a big roll.....
And yes you can ceramic coat, and heat wrap, and anti-lag, but all of those options are still available on a proper turbo setup as well. And when comparing apples to apples, there is a huge difference.
CK
I'm sure there's more to it, but as you can see efficiency plays a big roll.....
And yes you can ceramic coat, and heat wrap, and anti-lag, but all of those options are still available on a proper turbo setup as well. And when comparing apples to apples, there is a huge difference.
CK
09-22-2015, 03:12 PM
#50
Former Vendor
I get that, and just like I said before, I'm in no way saying it's junk or doesn't work. I just feel there is a better, more efficient way, so why would you not utilize it? Now if you're trying to squeeze twin 102mm turbos in your options are cut the hood, or place them out back.....obviously at that point there is good reasoning behind the rear mounted setup.
CK
CK
09-22-2015, 03:32 PM
#51
Saw a car at some point from one of the big shops that had fuel tanks removed and turbos mounted there. More of a "mid-mount" setup at that point. Ever since I've been wanting to do that also... Not sure what the logistics around switching to a fuel cell will be, though, especially from a standpoint of safety (NHRA/etc).
09-22-2015, 03:44 PM
#52
Drifting
Saw a car at some point from one of the big shops that had fuel tanks removed and turbos mounted there. More of a "mid-mount" setup at that point. Ever since I've been wanting to do that also... Not sure what the logistics around switching to a fuel cell will be, though, especially from a standpoint of safety (NHRA/etc).
09-22-2015, 10:22 PM
#54
Burning Brakes
Saw a car at some point from one of the big shops that had fuel tanks removed and turbos mounted there. More of a "mid-mount" setup at that point. Ever since I've been wanting to do that also... Not sure what the logistics around switching to a fuel cell will be, though, especially from a standpoint of safety (NHRA/etc).
I get that, and just like I said before, I'm in no way saying it's junk or doesn't work. I just feel there is a better, more efficient way, so why would you not utilize it? Now if you're trying to squeeze twin 102mm turbos in your options are cut the hood, or place them out back.....obviously at that point there is good reasoning behind the rear mounted setup.
CK
CK
09-23-2015, 06:41 PM
#55
Pro
Thread Starter
I've had a TTiX kit with a built LS6 running for about 5 years. Only issue I had is after 3 years I had to replace a turbo manifold (which was pretty hard to do).
turbos get a bad rap, but consider this, truckers put many hundreds of thousands of miles on them.
put it together well, tune it right, and just like nitrous, don't get greedy and push it too much and they are very reliable.
maintenance is a bear though, blowers are MUCH easier to install and maintain.
but with the advanced boost controllers and traction control, it's a bit easier to ramp the boost up accordingly to available traction.
blowers are more "forgiving" in this respect as the power increases a bit more linear according to RPM. turbos tend to provide improved mid range torq and go full boost earlier in the RPM range, but that can also prove difficult to control.
I think the turbos are a bit easier on the crank too as the blower takes quite a bit of power to spin, so turbos are slightly easier on the snout and don't flex the crank as bad.
that being said, turbos are not for the faint of heart or light of wallet.
the secret to making a small fortune, start with a large fortune and go with turbos! you'll see it get smaller quick.
the ttix kit is 12k but features some nice cast iron manifolds but that also limits the turbo size due to placement
my personal belief is anything over 1k hp should have a full cage and safety equipment but that's because I've needed it before!!
the vette isn't really the best platform for hp above 1k. it's expensive to beef up the drive train enough to reliably hold and plant that kind of power. (ask me how I know)
that being said, UPP and others have stepped up to fill the void left by APS and some of the other high hp kits that have dried up.
the TTix is good up to 1k at the wheels and a bit beyond.
my advice, set you goals carefully and make sure you budget enough for all the upgrades at once. it's best to drop the engine and cradles to install the ttix (again, ask me how I know) clearance is really tight and while you CAN install it without doing all that, you need a better clutch, tranny beefed, fuel system, ect.....
do it all at once and be done. good luck, boostamuv!
turbos get a bad rap, but consider this, truckers put many hundreds of thousands of miles on them.
put it together well, tune it right, and just like nitrous, don't get greedy and push it too much and they are very reliable.
maintenance is a bear though, blowers are MUCH easier to install and maintain.
but with the advanced boost controllers and traction control, it's a bit easier to ramp the boost up accordingly to available traction.
blowers are more "forgiving" in this respect as the power increases a bit more linear according to RPM. turbos tend to provide improved mid range torq and go full boost earlier in the RPM range, but that can also prove difficult to control.
I think the turbos are a bit easier on the crank too as the blower takes quite a bit of power to spin, so turbos are slightly easier on the snout and don't flex the crank as bad.
that being said, turbos are not for the faint of heart or light of wallet.
the secret to making a small fortune, start with a large fortune and go with turbos! you'll see it get smaller quick.
the ttix kit is 12k but features some nice cast iron manifolds but that also limits the turbo size due to placement
my personal belief is anything over 1k hp should have a full cage and safety equipment but that's because I've needed it before!!
the vette isn't really the best platform for hp above 1k. it's expensive to beef up the drive train enough to reliably hold and plant that kind of power. (ask me how I know)
that being said, UPP and others have stepped up to fill the void left by APS and some of the other high hp kits that have dried up.
the TTix is good up to 1k at the wheels and a bit beyond.
my advice, set you goals carefully and make sure you budget enough for all the upgrades at once. it's best to drop the engine and cradles to install the ttix (again, ask me how I know) clearance is really tight and while you CAN install it without doing all that, you need a better clutch, tranny beefed, fuel system, ect.....
do it all at once and be done. good luck, boostamuv!
Rkreigh,
What caused the manifold to need to be replaced after only 3 years? I know they are cast instead of welded, so I expected them to last a whole lot longer than 3 years.
Also, how much did it cost to buy the new manifold and the labor to replace it?
09-23-2015, 08:40 PM
#56
Burning Brakes
-Curtis
09-23-2015, 09:52 PM
#57
Pro
Thread Starter
Damn! That turns me off from front mounted kits. Might as well go with a rear mount, keep my long tube headers, use oil less turbos that spool up faster and are less maintenance, and not have manifolds to worry about. What could go wrong with that type of set up? I'm thinking pipe leaks. Anyone want to jump in here??
09-24-2015, 06:50 AM
#58
Le Mans Master
I think it might have been over torqued when installed the rear most mounting flange on the turbo manifold cracked and I started getting and exhaust leak on boost
labor cost was 1400 cuss words and many CASES of beer it wasn't trivial
getting to the rear 5 bolt downpipe bolts is tough
trust me when I say drop the cradle down about 4-5 inches
you'll have a much easier time replacing the inlet pipe to the turbo which is very tight
the manifolds usually hold up great as they are cast iron the turbo positioning is very tight against the frame so not too much to go bigger but trust me if you are actually making 1k at the tire which the system is capable of you will seeing the world through a screaming face and it's the most fun you can have with your pants on
if you want an all out race car (which IMHO, a 1k plus vette IS) you'll need some pretty extensive drive train mods
I would go glide with a strong rear and again, it's expensive
09-24-2015, 09:36 AM
#59
Drifting
Damn! That turns me off from front mounted kits. Might as well go with a rear mount, keep my long tube headers, use oil less turbos that spool up faster and are less maintenance, and not have manifolds to worry about. What could go wrong with that type of set up? I'm thinking pipe leaks. Anyone want to jump in here??
Youll lose spool time and power by running long tubes. Use the stock C6Z manifolds.
Last edited by Dude_man; 09-24-2015 at 03:05 PM.
09-24-2015, 02:33 PM
#60
Former Vendor
Damn! That turns me off from front mounted kits. Might as well go with a rear mount, keep my long tube headers, use oil less turbos that spool up faster and are less maintenance, and not have manifolds to worry about. What could go wrong with that type of set up? I'm thinking pipe leaks. Anyone want to jump in here??
