changing a/c compressor with a centri...
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
changing a/c compressor with a centri...
can the a/c compressor be replaced w/o removing the a&a blower? what brand are people replacing them with (ac delco/oem or other)?
#2
Ac delco was in my car replaced oem.. Dont think blower removal is necessary but thats on my ECS. Now gonna replace that with a 6 ribz compressor..
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#4
Le Mans Master
Looks to me like this is a good opportunity to make your car faster by taking some unnecessary weight off the front end. You can get rid of the condenser and evaporator core too. I've been to Mississippi before and don't remember it being that hot there.....
#5
#6
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St. Jude Donor '15
$270 isn't bad. I'd pay someone that to do it vs. having to deal with it myself.
You can get it out the top (with an ECS kit anyways), barely, but it's really supposed to come out the bottom and should be easier for someone with a lift to do it that way
I pulled mine out the top to replace the clutch one time. Wish I had just replaced the damn thing then since it's making some noise
You can get it out the top (with an ECS kit anyways), barely, but it's really supposed to come out the bottom and should be easier for someone with a lift to do it that way
I pulled mine out the top to replace the clutch one time. Wish I had just replaced the damn thing then since it's making some noise
#7
$270 isn't bad. I'd pay someone that to do it vs. having to deal with it myself.
You can get it out the top (with an ECS kit anyways), barely, but it's really supposed to come out the bottom and should be easier for someone with a lift to do it that way
I pulled mine out the top to replace the clutch one time. Wish I had just replaced the damn thing then since it's making some noise
You can get it out the top (with an ECS kit anyways), barely, but it's really supposed to come out the bottom and should be easier for someone with a lift to do it that way
I pulled mine out the top to replace the clutch one time. Wish I had just replaced the damn thing then since it's making some noise
#8
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
$270 isn't bad. I'd pay someone that to do it vs. having to deal with it myself.
You can get it out the top (with an ECS kit anyways), barely, but it's really supposed to come out the bottom and should be easier for someone with a lift to do it that way
I pulled mine out the top to replace the clutch one time. Wish I had just replaced the damn thing then since it's making some noise
You can get it out the top (with an ECS kit anyways), barely, but it's really supposed to come out the bottom and should be easier for someone with a lift to do it that way
I pulled mine out the top to replace the clutch one time. Wish I had just replaced the damn thing then since it's making some noise
#9
#10
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#11
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St. Jude Donor '15
Depends. Do you have a vacuum pump/manifold gauges/r134a laying around? If so, I'd probably do it myself at that price. If not, I'd probably let them do it
#12
http://www.tooltopia.com/ac-tools-to...ice-tools.aspx
Air Conditioning Compressor Replacement
Removal Procedure
1 Recover the refrigerant from the A/C System. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .
2 Remove the A/C drive belt. Refer to Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement for the 6.0L engine or Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement for the 7.0L engine.
3 Remove the A/C compressor hose assembly from the A/C compressor. Refer to Compressor Hose Assembly Replacement .
4 Lower the front suspension crossmember. Refer to Front Suspension Crossmember Replacement .
5 Disconnect the A/C compressor electrical connector.
6 Remove the A/C compressor mounting bolts (1, 2, 4).
7 Remove the A/C compressor mounting nut (3).
8 Remove the A/C compressor from the vehicle.
Important: Replacement A/C compressors are charged with polyalkylene glycol (PAG) oil. Refer to Refrigerant System Capacities .
9 If replacing the A/C compressor, oil balance the compressor. Refer to Air Conditioning Compressor Oil Balancing .
Installation Procedure
1 Install the A/C compressor to the vehicle.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.
Important: Finger tighten the A/C compressor bolts and nuts only, do not torque at this time.
2 Position the A/C compressor onto the A/C compressor bracket and install the A/C compressor mounting bolts (1, 2, 4).
3 Install the A/C compressor mounting nut (3).
4 Tighten the A/C compressor mounting bolts and nut in sequence.
Tighten the bolts and nut to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
5 Connect the A/C compressor electrical connector.
6 Raise and install the front suspension crossmember. Refer to Front Suspension Crossmember Replacement .
7 Install the compressor hose assembly to the A/C compressor. Refer to Compressor Hose Assembly Replacement .
8 Install the A/C drive belt. Refer to Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement for the 6.0L engine or Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement for the 7.0L engine.
9 Evacuate and recharge the A/C System. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .
10 Leak test the fittings of the A/C components using J 39400-A .
Air Conditioning (AC) Refrigerant Filter Replacement
Removal Procedure
1 Recover the refrigerant from the A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .
2 Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
Important: Immediately cap or tape the open A/C components immediately in order to prevent contamination.
3 Remove the front evaporator inlet line to A/C condenser bolt.
4 Disconnect the front evaporator inlet line from the A/C condenser.
5 Cap or tape off the A/C condenser port.
6 Remove A/C refrigerant filter from the front evaporator inlet line.
7 Remove and discard the seal washer from the front evaporator inlet line.
8 Cap or tape off the front evaporator inlet line.
Installation Procedure
1 Remove the cap or the tape from the front evaporator inlet line.
2 Install a new seal washer to the front evaporator inlet line. Refer to Sealing Washer Replacement .
3 Install the A/C refrigerant filter to the front evaporator inlet line.
4 Remove the cap or tape from the A/C condenser.
5 Connect the front evaporator inlet line to the condenser.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
6 Install the front evaporator inlet line to condenser bolt.
Tighten the bolt to 16 N·m (12 lb ft).
7 Lower the vehicle.
8 Evacuate and recharge the A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .
9 Leak test the fittings of the component using J 39400-A .
#13
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
This is my mechanic that installed the blower, so he knows how it is all setup (very ocd as well).....the air conditioning place didn't want to really deal with it.
#14
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St. Jude Donor '15
I'd probably just let them do it unless you're strapped for cash and/or really like doing the work. It's not a horrible price IMO
#15
#16
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#17
#18
I've done some AC work in the past and if the compressor puked more than likely you will have debris in the system. If you plull the compressor and when you turn it ove to drain oil if that oil is a metallic slurry the system will need a flush. That would require completely opening system, flushing hoses and evaporator with a Freon based solvent(got it on Amazon, don't use anything else as it will contaminate system), replacing compressor, condenser (these cant really be flushed anymore tubes are too small), orifice tubes(can be cleaned) and accumulator. Next add the correct amount of oil to compressor and accumulator, then vacuum pump it to 30" and verify it can hold. Then for a hour or so keep vacuum pumping to remove all air and water in system. Finally using a weight scale add the correct amount of refrigerant. If you just replace the compressor and there is debris it wont last more than 6 months because it will chew up the new compressor and you will be replacing it again(ask me how I know that one). A/C work is a royal PITA that's why they charge what they do. Its not as simple as replacing the compressor and adding some Freon which might work but wont last.
#19
If you are replacing the compressor, replace it with the one from the ZR1. I doubt the price difference is much and it will give you a option to run a 6 rib belt in the future if you choose too.
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Arctic Vette (09-28-2015)
#20
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I've done some AC work in the past and if the compressor puked more than likely you will have debris in the system. If you plull the compressor and when you turn it ove to drain oil if that oil is a metallic slurry the system will need a flush. That would require completely opening system, flushing hoses and evaporator with a Freon based solvent(got it on Amazon, don't use anything else as it will contaminate system), replacing compressor, condenser (these cant really be flushed anymore tubes are too small), orifice tubes(can be cleaned) and accumulator. Next add the correct amount of oil to compressor and accumulator, then vacuum pump it to 30" and verify it can hold. Then for a hour or so keep vacuum pumping to remove all air and water in system. Finally using a weight scale add the correct amount of refrigerant. If you just replace the compressor and there is debris it wont last more than 6 months because it will chew up the new compressor and you will be replacing it again(ask me how I know that one). A/C work is a royal PITA that's why they charge what they do. Its not as simple as replacing the compressor and adding some Freon which might work but wont last.