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Spun a innovators west crank pulley ! Ideas ?

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Old 09-27-2015, 10:23 PM
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booztd3
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Default Spun a innovators west crank pulley ! Ideas ?

I have a 2200r 10rib with cog set up at 20psi . Well the other day I had noticed the blower whistle pitch a little different and inconsistent .Driving normal then all of a sudden I start losing volts and temps get higher ! Pulled over and inspected the belts, they looked great ! The crank bolt had backed out and the key broke . Not sure which happened first . I had impacted the pulley on with my 1/2in impact and used red loctite on the bolt . Innovators west had recommended 150ft lbs for their longer bolt . I have since cleaned up the crank as best as possible and sent the pulley back for a new hub .
I don't want this to happen again , next time the crank may not be useable .
I did buy the mr gasket hardend key , so hopefully that won't shear . The key way is still in great shape luckily . Anybody ever experience this with a key ?

Last edited by booztd3; 09-27-2015 at 10:25 PM.
Old 09-27-2015, 11:58 PM
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schpenxel
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St. Jude Donor '15

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So you didn't torque the crank bolt properly, basically?
Old 09-28-2015, 06:32 AM
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booztd3
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I guess I should mention that I did check to see if it was at least 150ft lbs ,which it was after impacting .Stock specs are far more than 150ft lbs though . I wondering if the key broke first ,then the bolt came loose or vise versa.
Old 09-28-2015, 07:18 AM
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Arctic Vette
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I talked to a very experienced person on this very issue and he recommends to tighten to oem spec which is 240ft lb if i remember correctly. Now i see why, sorry to hear bud..
Old 09-28-2015, 08:06 AM
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schpenxel
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Yeah I'd go with the 250 ft lb personally unless someone has broken one from going too tight or something.
Old 09-28-2015, 08:33 AM
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Unreal
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Sounds like maybe the key broke. Mine is keyed and pinned. Also follow the instructions and torque it properly.
Old 09-28-2015, 09:08 AM
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booztd3
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Yeah I think I will install the mr gasket hardend key and also pin it as well . The snout got pretty gouged up and the key pretty much melted and fused to crank . I sanded the snout as smooth as possible with out removing to much material . Stock pulley is still a snug fit . The crank definetly got hot with the pulley just spinning on it . Hopefully this issue didn't sacrifice any strength on the crank . This go around I will torque to factory spec with red loctite and pin.
Old 09-28-2015, 09:22 AM
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SquatchMachining
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I run a single 3/16" keyways on a dragonslayer crank.. No fancy key, just normal keystock... I made a 1/2" thick washer from tool steel and drove a off the shelf grade 10.9 bolt home with my impact and red Loctite. Never an issue in almost 3 years and non stop abuse. If the key fits tight in the keyway, the odds of that crank pulley moving with or without a bolt even in there is slim to none. Being that the crank hub is a press fit, if it cannot rotate, it will not move. My guess is that the key that was used was loose in the keyway and eventually sheared from torque.
Old 09-28-2015, 02:13 PM
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lt1z
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I am single keyed on a dragons layer crank with the IW bolt torqued to 240 ft lbs. No issues.
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:16 AM
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Louis Gigliotti
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In my opinion, the Innovators west instructions leave you in a tough spot.

The OEM torque/OEM bolts work well for me, but thats only because I dont use the Innovators bolt/washer.

I tried to torque the supplied bolt/washer to 240, but it broke the washer. Yes, it was indexed and facing the correct way. I ended up salvaging an ARP washer with the IV bolt, and it lived to tell the tale.

The bolt probably came loose, allowing the balancer to move, and then it sheared the key/pin.
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