-DUNNY-

i am getting a labor quote from my shop now. And will weigh my decision. funds are pretty unlimited, would rather have the car right, then limping it along. But the more money i throw at the car and more time its in the shop the more burned out i become. season is pretty much over for us here in ohio, car will be stored before november.

realcanuk

Get that. Season about over here too. I'm just comparing to my car where to be honest, I can't use the power I have which is why I never tried the smaller pulley. I'd be surprised if the 3.0 left you disappointed.

Unreal

Throw a 3" on it, enjoy, go break some stuff, and upgrade later.

gotjuice?

I run one of Andy's early bracket with the 2.85 razor cut pulleys, larger balancer, 8 rib set up. Also run a direct drive. I have not seen any slippage. I talked to Josh about converting to a 10 rib setup, Even purchased the balancer. The issue was that I could not run a 2.75 pulley. I think I was quoted $1200 for everything except the balancer.

-DUNNY-

but for the reason below i dont see it being very practicle to pay another 600 for pulley and tune for the car just to be changed again for next season. and i already had a 3.125 pulley, the 3.00" really worth the 600 dollars over teh 3.125?

and with the car at the shop and still needing tuned ($400) i figured go 10 rib now and just have it done and right. i will just have to pay for another 400 dollar tune next spring and 200 plus for the pulley and belt that i will just be removing it for the 10 rib for next yr. thats 600 i can just put towards the 10rib setup and labor. sell my 8 rib kit ect.

i went from 3.47" 13psi to a 3.125" 15lbs. the 3.00 pulley would only be another lb of boost over my 3.125". not worth 20-30rwhp for 600.

Get that. Season about over here too. I'm just comparing to my car where to be honest, I can't use the power I have which is why I never tried the smaller pulley. I'd be surprised if the 3.0 left you disappointed.[/QUOTE]

is the 3.00" going to make the 600 tune and pulley price that much difference?? over my 3.125

see i hope they were being quite conservative on the fast quote they produced, seems a couple hundered high of what it should be.

why can you not run a 2.75?

realcanuk

If you throw on the 3.0, and tune the car, you may just be satisfied with that. If you do change it over the winter, the tune would just need a few tweaks and the tuner shouldn't charge too much for that. Speak to him first, telling him you might change and how much will he charge.

I cant tell you how much difference its going to make. I can only tell you what it makes on my car. To be honest, if your car is properly tuned now, then the tuner probably shouldn't have to do much with just a pulley change, and shouldn't need to charge a full tune.

Unreal

If a shop is charging you $500-600 each time to do mild adjustments, find a new shop, or just get your own HP tuners and do it yourself. Hell, anyone with a build like this should have their own. The 10 minutes of tweaks, if that when pulley is swapped is so basic a 1 eye'd semiretarded autistic tree frog could do them.

-DUNNY-

600 is for the pulley, belt, install and tune.

realcanuk

That seems fair to me. The point is, if you change the pulley again after, the tuner should just charge you a few bucks to check and make small adjustments... not charge another tune.

SquatchMachining

Exactly.. Dyno time basically....

Unreal

That is high. Belt is $35 off amazon, pulley is $90-100 from summit. Takes ~20 minutes max to swap out (on ECS kit, maybe A&A is that much worse).

SquatchMachining

A&A kit takes about 30 mins to change a belt, its easiest to just unbolt the head unit.


Yeah you are talking $130 in parts.. So even if that place is charging $100 an hour labor, you are $180 in parts and labor. Unless that tune is being done from the ground up, that is MADNESS for a touch up. If the car is tuned correctly already and has a good fuel system, its unlikely it will even really need any tuning. It should compensate for that minor change on its own. No difference than someone with a turbo car playing with the boost control...

-DUNNY-

i was going off the price of a razor cut A&A pulley, 160 local napa store was about 50 for the belt. the shop does charge less then an hr for install when they did it before. initial tune was 650 to start from scratch when my car was there the first time, with the new added boost etc we was going to change it to be a speed density tune as my maf was about maxed i believe and they said 400 to tune this last time for the 2.75". i am coming off a 3.125 tho so i can see the 3.00 pulley needing less time but we were switching to speed density etc might have factored in.

they said about 400-600 on price for install on the 10rib kit but they are weeks out to work it in. i just have them sticking the 3.125 back on no change to the tune and i will set everything up with 10rib over winter here, so i can get the car back before the snow flys.

Unreal

If you need to go SD something is wrong. I'm still maf only and way more airflow. Do you have the old 3" A&A intake pipe or something?

schpenxel

2005's are limited to 512 g/sec airflow on the MAF and have a frequency limit that can be an issue too.

And the original LS2 style MAF's were smaller so that made the frequency part worse. Not sure if he's running the card style or LS2 style MAF though.

-DUNNY-

this A&A kit is from 2012 started as a v3, i believe it is a 3" intake tube. upgraded to ysi in 2014. this is a ls7 z06. the shop said i need to look into getting a 4" intake tube to helpthe maf readings.

schpenxel

(your profile says '05 Z51 so that's why I assumed that's what you were working with)

realcanuk

You cant be maxing out the maf on that. Very strange that they didn't find the issue for you, and just let the car leave like that.

Unreal

Thats a 4" pipe in the picture so I'm confused.

-DUNNY-

that's why I added the photo, im 2 hrs from the shop the car is at, so I couldn't measure myself. it is a 2 bar sensor I believe. I will talk more with the shop and see what they have to say.