2.75" pulley ysi 8-rib A&A direct drive set up issues
#1
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2.75" pulley ysi 8-rib A&A direct drive set up issues
my car is at the shop right now, i had a 2.75" 8rib vortech pulley installed, i have the innovations 8" balancer, and A&A direct drive set up.
issue is my car is only seeing 16psi peak boost, the shop says it is belt slip on the carry. they said they have maxed the tensioner out. i am running the suggested K080530HD belt
ysi, A&A direct drive, innovations 8" balancer
original set up was 3.47" pulley=13psi
then went 3.125 and was 15psi
now i went 2.75" and its 16psi with slip
any suggestions?
issue is my car is only seeing 16psi peak boost, the shop says it is belt slip on the carry. they said they have maxed the tensioner out. i am running the suggested K080530HD belt
ysi, A&A direct drive, innovations 8" balancer
original set up was 3.47" pulley=13psi
then went 3.125 and was 15psi
now i went 2.75" and its 16psi with slip
any suggestions?
#2
Your belt is slipping. 8 Rib will not hold a 2.75" pulley but it will hold a 3" in most cases. Even 10 ribs slip on the 2.75" a lot of times unless you really have your belt length, alignment, and tension dialed in.
Go to a 3" slotted pulley that A&A offers or convert to a 10 Rib drive...
Do you have the reinforced A&A spring tensioner or just the standard one? The reinforced version will have a 1/2" aluminum plate welded to the back of it and a bolt that runs all the way through it. Im assuming you probably just have the standard tensioner and under that high of a load it will flex.
Your best solution to this problem is to get the modified tensioner and convert to 10 rib. I run a 2.75" with no slip issues as do many other members.
Go to a 3" slotted pulley that A&A offers or convert to a 10 Rib drive...
Do you have the reinforced A&A spring tensioner or just the standard one? The reinforced version will have a 1/2" aluminum plate welded to the back of it and a bolt that runs all the way through it. Im assuming you probably just have the standard tensioner and under that high of a load it will flex.
Your best solution to this problem is to get the modified tensioner and convert to 10 rib. I run a 2.75" with no slip issues as do many other members.
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[QUOTE=SquatchMachining;1590599459]Your belt is slipping. 8 Rib will not hold a 2.75" pulley but it will hold a 3" in most cases. Even 10 ribs slip on the 2.75" a lot of times unless you really have your belt length, alignment, and tension dialed in.
Go to a 3" slotted pulley that A&A offers or convert to a 10 Rib drive...
Do you have the reinforced A&A spring tensioner or just the standard one? The reinforced version will have a 1/2" aluminum plate welded to the back of it and a bolt that runs all the way through it. Im assuming you probably just have the standard tensioner and under that high of a load it will flex.
when i talked to A&A they pointed me in the direction of the 2.75 and 2.85 pulley with my setup as they said anything over a 3" is a waste on ysi. any suggestions on where to purchase the 10 rib setup? ecs?
Go to a 3" slotted pulley that A&A offers or convert to a 10 Rib drive...
Do you have the reinforced A&A spring tensioner or just the standard one? The reinforced version will have a 1/2" aluminum plate welded to the back of it and a bolt that runs all the way through it. Im assuming you probably just have the standard tensioner and under that high of a load it will flex.
when i talked to A&A they pointed me in the direction of the 2.75 and 2.85 pulley with my setup as they said anything over a 3" is a waste on ysi. any suggestions on where to purchase the 10 rib setup? ecs?
#5
Drifting
A&a sell the 10 rib. I think you need to change to an ecs bracket to run their setup which I think is cog drive not 10 rib. 2.75 will slip on an 8 rib
#6
ECS's kit is 10 rib as well. They offer a cog driven balancer for direct drive to eliminate the slipping of the 4 Rib A/C belt. As he already has the A&A bracketry though, all he needs is a new balancer, longer bracket spacers, and wider idler pullies and he will be good.
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ECS's kit is 10 rib as well. They offer a cog driven balancer for direct drive to eliminate the slipping of the 4 Rib A/C belt. As he already has the A&A bracketry though, all he needs is a new balancer, longer bracket spacers, and wider idler pullies and he will be good.
#8
It will slip. Just go to a 3" and be done with it till you upgrade to 10 rib. A 3" pulley will still make 900whp in most cases as long as the engine isn't a turd.
#9
Try a slightly smaller bet too imo, if they are stretching enough it will eventually lead to belt slip.. Just my 2 pennies.
#10
Le Mans Master
Running the same setup as your with a 3 inch pulley with no slip at all. Making near 20 lbs. I have a 2.85 here but haven't tried it so I don't know if it would slip or not. If you are going to try it, make sure it is the slotted pulley from A&A..... with that you have a chance.
#11
Team Owner
Like the good people above said, anything less than 3.0" is going to have issues on a 8 rib. I couldn't get anything lower than that to hold. 10 rib solved that issues and now 2.75 works great. Makes 24psi and no belt issues. Only belt issues recently in past 2 years since going 10 rib has been the direct drive stuff which was solved by the ECS cog mod for the direct drive parts. That doesn't touch the blower side of things, and you can have that done. In fact, when you upgrade to a 10 rib I would STRONGly suggest looking into that since the balancer will be off.
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Running the same setup as your with a 3 inch pulley with no slip at all. Making near 20 lbs. I have a 2.85 here but haven't tried it so I don't know if it would slip or not. If you are going to try it, make sure it is the slotted pulley from A&A..... with that you have a chance.
Like the good people above said, anything less than 3.0" is going to have issues on a 8 rib. I couldn't get anything lower than that to hold. 10 rib solved that issues and now 2.75 works great. Makes 24psi and no belt issues. Only belt issues recently in past 2 years since going 10 rib has been the direct drive stuff which was solved by the ECS cog mod for the direct drive parts. That doesn't touch the blower side of things, and you can have that done. In fact, when you upgrade to a 10 rib I would STRONGly suggest looking into that since the balancer will be off.
it is in the shop still, so i guess i will weigh it back and forth, i might as well do the 10 rib while its there, car will be stored within the next month before the ohio winter kicks in.
#13
Le Mans Master
Every combo is different boost wise. If I would you I would try it with the 3.0 for now, and then you can change later. You might be surprised how it is.
I would even try the 2.85 to see if holds. Since 3.0 holds perfectly... that might too.
I would even try the 2.85 to see if holds. Since 3.0 holds perfectly... that might too.
Last edited by realcanuk; 09-30-2015 at 01:10 PM.
#14
Its Canadian PSI and Canadian Horsepower, subtract atleast 1/4 from everything they tell you!! HAHA
#15
Le Mans Master
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josh at A&A is trying to sell me on a even smaller pulley at 2.70 razor cut and a smaller idler pulley??? i called and he replyed in the A&A question thread stickied at the top of the forum.
i know you guys have the experience in this, the shop says they have my tensioner maxed out and the belt is almost touching itself around the blower. my 2.75 is not razor cut ribs in it.
if i should throw down the $200+ for a 3" and belt. or the 1200 for a 10 rib and recoup some selling off my 8 rib stuff.
did any of you guys run the 2.85 razor cut 8 rib belt from A&A?
i know you guys have the experience in this, the shop says they have my tensioner maxed out and the belt is almost touching itself around the blower. my 2.75 is not razor cut ribs in it.
if i should throw down the $200+ for a 3" and belt. or the 1200 for a 10 rib and recoup some selling off my 8 rib stuff.
did any of you guys run the 2.85 razor cut 8 rib belt from A&A?
#17
I dunno where the $1200 number is coming from though. A 10 Rib balancer is $550, the 10 Rib bracket conversion parts with idler pulleys and everything is only a couple hundred dollars. The 10 rib blower pulley can be bought directly from Vortech or summing/jegs for under $100.. Where is this $1200 number coming from?
Last edited by SquatchMachining; 09-30-2015 at 03:49 PM.
#18
Le Mans Master
I would try the 3.0. That 1200 will be much more if you are paying labor. I would be surprised if the 3 inch didn't make enough power to keep you happy, unless of course you are seriously racing the car.
#19
Agreed, this would be what I would do as well. Then just upgrade when the funds are available.
The YSI does like to be spun hard though, the power will come on much harder with the 2.75 than it does with the 3.00", that much is a fact.
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I dunno where the $1200 number is coming from though. A 10 Rib balancer is $550, the 10 Rib bracket conversion parts with idler pulleys and everything is only a couple hundred dollars. The 10 rib blower pulley can be bought directly from Vortech or summing/jegs for under $100.. Where is this $1200 number coming from?
and with the car at the shop and still needing tuned ($400) i figured go 10 rib now and just have it done and right. i will just have to pay for another 400 dollar tune next spring and 200 plus for the pulley and belt that i will just be removing it for the 10 rib for next yr. thats 600 i can just put towards the 10rib setup and labor. sell my 8 rib kit ect.
i went from 3.47" 13psi to a 3.125" 15lbs. the 3.00 pulley would only be another lb of boost over my 3.125". not worth 20-30rwhp for 600.