george536

Patiently waiting for the data line tap... Dumb 05 of course wouldnt have spare locations

schpenxel

Yeah I'll have to look into that a little bit more before doing it.. should be easy enough to splice into them, though I'll try to find a way to make it neat

Any idea where the NPP controller is mounted on factory installs? It came with some adhesive installed on it already so I assume it's stuck on to something, somewhere..

schpenxel

Here's what I found on the factory location.. basically it's in the trunk

schpenxel

I installed the NPP controller today.. ordered solenoid a few days ago but it's not here yet

I put a bunch of pics/info on this other thread for anyone that wants to see how to do it:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1591003860

george536

Oh nice! Been waiting to see if you got around to it, so all the connectors you listed correct?

And i see there are empty slots for the 05 were the data lines connect. thanks for the info and pics!

schpenxel

Yep there are plenty of empty spaces. I used a metri-pack 150 female pin to add an additional wire. It did NOT fit 100% properly, but I was able to make it work..

Yep.. it worked out pretty simple. Basically just connect power and serial data to the NPP controller, then connect one wire from the controller to the solenoid. Ground the other wire on the solenoid connection and you're in business, electrically anyways.

When the solenoid gets here I'll post finishing it up

You can hear the controller turning power on and off when I tell it to go on/off via dash logic, so it 100% works.

Dash logic is setup to make the rear view mirror switch more useful. It will make the NPP system switch between "quiet", "power" and "normal" modes. Quite is always closed, power is always open, and normal is obvious regular operation.

schpenxel

I'm going to put this post here too.

-------------------

Alright here's the basics on how to install an NPP controller.

Serial bus wiring diagram


NPP Wiring diagram


Controller. I'm using the "export" version because it was cheaper. I'll be using dash logic to control it mostly so that's fine with me


Adhesive comes already installed on the back


And here's where it's going to get mounted


Behind the BOSE amp that is a nice empty space (thanks to xtremespeed for the idea!)


Amp removed


A little bit left of the BOSE amp is this connector. This is where all of the serial bus wires connect together. The NPP controller needs a signal from this serial bus


Pull the cap off and you'll see how it works. This cap basically connects ALL of the wires together. I didn't get a good picture of how it works, but just know it connects every wire in this harness together so that they're all on the same network basically


Here's what the housing looks like


I had this pin laying around from something else that was close to the ones used for this connector from the factory.. It wasn't exactly the same, but it was close enough to work


I added a new wire to the end of this connector..


Put the cap back on and taped it up (came taped from the factory so I figure there must be a reason)


Here's what it looks like


Serial bus wire runs to pin #7 on the NPP controller


Positive / negative goes to pins 2 / 4 respectively. I tied into wires going to my wideband so I didn't have to mess with any of the factory wiring


There's a second connector.. this is the output to the NPP solenoid. This is basically 12V+ (black wire was all I had on hand)


This will run to NPP controller. The long wire connects to the controller up front. That will feed 12V+. The short wire will go to ground somewhere in the back


Here's where I mounted the controller


With BOSE amp re-installed


One more


This is the wire that goes to NPP solenoid. I just ran it back to cargo area for now. I'll figure out the rest once my solenoid comes in


Dash logic rocks. Power mode..


It works! 12V to the NPP solenoid wire


Quiet mode..


0 volts


That's it.

stephenpen

I'm not sure if I installed the mild to wild wrong but my baffles don't close until the engine makes vacuum. When I start my car its loud for a second or two. My Nighbours don't like it at 5am when I leave for work. Id like to be able to start the car with the baffles closed so it's quiet from the start.
Is there supposed to be a check valve to hold vacuum ?

realcanuk

Mine is the same. Starts with the valves open for a second until some vacuum builds to close them.

Arctic Vette

My kit starts closed

https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/inde...17605/image/0/

Xtremespeed

Even with a check valve, the actuators will leak down over time. When I had my Z06, it was the same way from the factory. Starts loud for a couple seconds before the valves close.

realcanuk

Have the same kit.... really don't see how it can start closed. Mine starts and closes quickly, but does start open for a second.

Arctic Vette

Ill post a vid when i start the car they are closed as long as i left them closed prior to turning off..

realcanuk

Maybe you could figure out if there is a check valve or something installed....

Or... maybe it can only work that way on a car that had NPP from the factory... mine didn't..... would be nice to know either way.

Arctic Vette

Its an Akro for ZR1 ill make a small vid to show you it starts closed but im sure it does because i have to remember to open all the time.. Doesnt make a diff open or closed my car is extremely loud tho..

schpenxel

I'm using close to a factory NPP setup (no vacuum reservoir, but does have a check valve) and it starts up in loud mode and shuts pretty quick after that

I think I'm going to remove the one way valve.. I really hate having to remember to switch over to loud before I go WOT. With the check valve removed it will open automatically at about -2psi boost

Streetk14

You can set up an NPP system to work that way if you want. Might take a little work depending on what exact setup your car has, but it can be done. I had a retrofitted B&B NPP system on my '08. It came with a vacuum reservoir, and the typical "Mild to Wild" remote setup. I added a one-way check valve to the system for good measure. On that car, I could operate the flaps open and closed probably 5 times with the engine off. Even after parking the car for a week, I could walk out and close the flaps with the remote. I believe my M2W controller defaulted to "loud" whenever it lost power (i.e. ignition off), so I just had to switch on the ignition, close the flaps, then fire the motor.

Now, if you have a factory NPP car, it will probably be different. I'm not sure what the best way would be. I haven't done enough testing with vacuum readings or solenoid operation to answer that. I'm pretty sure the factory cars have a vacuum reservoir, and if that's the case then it should be possible. Just need to find the best way to get the flaps to physically close before engine start.

schpenxel

Yes, factory NPP cars have a reservoir

Streetk14

Yep, after I posted I looked at the GM parts catalog to see the entire system. I didn't realize I had a factory check-valve installed right near the quick connect line in the engine bay, but that's where it is. My car has been parked for probably almost 2 weeks, and there was still some vacuum present when I disconnected the quick connect.

Do you know when the exhaust controller module energizes the solenoid during factory operation? The module gets constant power, but it seems like it maybe doesn't energize the solenoid until the engine is running. At least that's how it seems. Figured you'd maybe done some testing when you were wiring everything up.

schpenxel

I'm not sure on that one.. I could have tested it before I finished wiring the new solenoid but didn't even think about it

I did hook a multimeter up to the wires I ran and flipped the mirror switch back and forth with dash logic connected to make sure it turned on and off, but that was about it