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New Best With 2200R 10Rib Direct Drive A6 C6

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Old 11-27-2015, 06:30 PM
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504 Strokr
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Default New Best With 2200R 10Rib Direct Drive A6 C6

For those of you that don't know me I have a stock bottom end, stock headed 2012 GS A6 C6. I just upgraded to the 2200R 10 Rib DD from the 1500 ECS blower I had. The car also has ARH 1 7/8, Meth, Fore triple fuel system, PY3400, and welds S76 18X4.5 17X11 on M&H 325 45/17. It put down 850 rwhp on a dynojet with stock block plus FMS cam and Q16. Fast forward went to the track first past 5.80 @118.9 and cog belt comes off!!!!! Can't keep this fuken belt from coming off. Spoke to Doug from ECS and he was very apologetic about my situation, I am one of many people who are having this problem according to Bob the engineer from ECS who said this system really wsn't designed for street cars. I want to thank Doug for his understanding in this issue and I hope they can come up with a resolution soon.U.S.M.C.
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:35 PM
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schpenxel
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There are several people on here that drive the cog setup thousands of miles without any issues.. surprised to hear them say it wasn't designed for street cars.
Old 11-27-2015, 06:37 PM
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Detoxx03
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I know you and Earl both have had that issue. You can made a killer pass from what I saw.
Old 11-27-2015, 06:41 PM
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winters97gt
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That should be right around 150mph in the 1/4 from my slips at 800-825rwhp with a manual. 5.80 is definitely very quick. I'm guessing you are in the 1.30-1.35 short time area? Congrats, and hope you figure out the belt. I've had 3-4 buddies have major issues with cogs on the street.
Old 11-27-2015, 09:35 PM
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usmcpony
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I'm going to be very upset if I build my entire car and have issues with my DD 10 rib cartek kit. Especially when I was told I absolutely needed it and it would stop all belt issues. One thing I hate doing is doing something twice. What pulley and balancer are you running?

Last edited by usmcpony; 11-27-2015 at 09:36 PM.
Old 11-27-2015, 09:38 PM
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croatbob
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Originally Posted by usmcpony
I'm going to be very upset if I build my entire car and have issues with my DD 10 rib cartek kit. Especially when I was told I absolutely needed it and it would stop all belt issues. One thing I hate doing is doing something twice. What pulley and balancer are you running?
Rib should be fine. Cog can be far more problematic

Last edited by croatbob; 11-27-2015 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 11-27-2015, 09:55 PM
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Shayc5
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Default pass

Originally Posted by 504 Strokr
For those of you that don't know me I have a stock bottom end, stock headed 2012 GS A6 C6. I just upgraded to the 2200R 10 Rib DD from the 1500 ECS blower I had. The car also has ARH 1 7/8, Meth, Fore triple fuel system, PY3400, and welds S76 18X4.5 17X11 on M&H 325 45/17. It put down 850 rwhp on a dynojet with stock block plus FMS cam and Q16. Fast forward went to the track first past 5.80 @118.9 and cog belt comes off!!!!! Can't keep this fuken belt from coming off. Spoke to Doug from ECS and he was very apologetic about my situation, I am one of many people who are having this problem according to Bob the engineer from ECS who said this system really wsn't designed for street cars. I want to thank Doug for his understanding in this issue and I hope they can come up with a resolution soon.U.S.M.C.
Nice pass, post a pic of the time slip where I can compare with mine. I have basically the same setup you have except the skinny's on the front as I have 18x8. And like you I will break a cog belt every now and then and they are a pain in the *** the change. Which blower belt are you using?
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Old 11-27-2015, 10:25 PM
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usmcpony
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Originally Posted by croatbob
Rib should be fine. Cog can be far more problematic
I definitely don't want my cogs to break. I bought this kit to solve problems. Not create more.
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Old 11-27-2015, 10:26 PM
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I have the IW Balancer. The kit came from ECS and it is the whole 10 rib direct drive system with all the bells and whistles. I was on an 8 second pass no doubt and that was leaving on the footbrake at 1700RPM with a 1.35 60ft. I have been 1.28 60ft with the 1500 leaving much harder, it will be a stock bottom end stock head record for sure if I can get this belt situation figured out.U.S.M.C.
Old 11-27-2015, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 504 Strokr
I have the IW Balancer. The kit came from ECS and it is the whole 10 rib direct drive system with all the bells and whistles. I was on an 8 second pass no doubt and that was leaving on the footbrake at 1700RPM with a 1.35 60ft. I have been 1.28 60ft with the 1500 leaving much harder, it will be a stock bottom end stock head record for sure if I can get this belt situation figured out.U.S.M.C.
What pulley?
Old 11-27-2015, 10:46 PM
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Justin and Allan @ FMS speced it out for me I think the pulley is a 2.95.U.S.M.C.
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Old 11-27-2015, 10:48 PM
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realcanuk
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Nice time for sure. Very encouraging. I also have a fairly similar setup and will be trying it out at the track next season.
I don't have that cog setup. I was not convinced it was necessary and so far haven't had any issues without it. I hope you get that sorted out and reach your goals.
Old 11-27-2015, 10:49 PM
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Check your bearing fitment in the jackshaft pulley.

That is the issue with flip/direct drives, the pulley wallows out, the bearings fit sloppy in the pulley and the pulley starts wobbling. When its still running the long 4 rib belt, the belt slips enough to absorb the wobble. Once you go to the cog belt, if the pulley starts wobbling, its gonna pitch the belt. The whole thing isn't really a cog belt problem, its a jackshaft pulley problem... Both the A&A and DP direct drive jack shaft pullies will develop this problem over time.

Those that have not yet seen this issue, likely have not checked the pulley since they "haven't had any problems"... But the problem will show up.

Mine has done this twice. I'm looking into different jackshaft pulley options now.

Honestly, I still believe the cog mod on the direct drive is a good mod and the true fix for belt slipping...It just has to have a good foundation (jackshaft pulley that lasts) and that's the problem.

FWIW, I did not have any issues at all with my cog belt, spinning it to 7200+ in high gear at least 10 times....probably more... and about 2500 miles. Never threw or broke a cog belt. I did wallow the $hit out of some jackshaft pullies though.

I think the true fix is a steel jackshaft pulley with the cogged ring attached.

Bob is a very nice, very smart, very conscientious guy, no doubt him and ECS will get this figured out.

My tip to everyone is, don't tighten the belt up much at all, leave it just snug on the bottom, doesn't need to be tight.
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Old 11-28-2015, 12:35 AM
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ajrothm, everything you said has been right on. The problem is that ECS and Bob are in the developmental stage of a new system which will fix the problem but it is not going to be interchangeable in any way with the system that we already have so where does that leave all the customers who have spent their hard earned money on a faulty system? I also had Alex from ECS tell me that they were aware of the problem with the system. Doug said that he would try his best to fix the problem while Alex just avoided my phone calls. That is a hell of a way to treat your customers and someone who risked his life so that you could enjoy the freedoms that you have. I invite Doug to chime in if I have in any way misrepresented the facts. So right now I have spent about 13,000.00 with ECS between the two blowers and I can't enjoy the one hobby that I have loved since I was introduced as a child by my father.U.S.M.C.
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Old 11-28-2015, 03:08 AM
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rajahhindi
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Have you ever learnt proper grammar so people can understand what you want?

Or too lazy?
Old 11-28-2015, 03:49 AM
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ajrothm
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I hear ya 504...

All you can do at this point is work with ECS and Bob and see what they come up with.

Basically, from what I have been told was the "cog mod" was intended for low mileage race cars, and was never really engineered for constant/daily driver type usage, so in certain situations, things can happen to cause issues with it. Bob is definitely looking into the issues and will probably make changes to the design for more street cars.

Basically, ECS rushed it to the market without a lot of testing on street cars....once the product was on customers cars getting real world tested, the short comings showed up.

I think the overall design is great, it just needs some tweaks to make it perfect, but as I mentioned, the Jack shaft pulley wearing out to 2-3k miles is no fault of Bob or ECS....they didn't make the jackshaft pulley...

In regards to your case and it throwing the belt, that certainly has to be an alignment issue, or you had too much tension on the belt, that will pinch it/break it quick.

Take a breath, Bob will fix it. Hopefully ECS will work with you on repair/update costs.

Last edited by ajrothm; 11-28-2015 at 03:50 AM.
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Old 11-28-2015, 01:26 PM
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Zero issues with my cog setup. Only thing that works well. Tons of street miles, 50+ 1/2 mile passes, and not a single issue.

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Old 11-28-2015, 01:44 PM
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I have about 5-6k miles on my set up 20psi no issues . It's all in the set up and cog tension , unless the jack shaft pulley is bad . Several 200 mph pulls as well
Old 11-28-2015, 02:40 PM
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Xtremespeed also had issues when he was overtightening the belt.

Cog needs VERY little tension.

People saying cogs are bad are just silly. Blower cogs are hard to setup and not street friendly, but nothing wrong with a cog belt. Hell TONS of factory cars have factory timing belts that are "Cog" belts. Hell all the high end race cars use cogs to drive dry sump pumps, jessel belt drive is a cog belt, cog driven fuel pumps.

Do you see people ragging on setups like this?

Old 03-18-2016, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
Check your bearing fitment in the jackshaft pulley.

That is the issue with flip/direct drives, the pulley wallows out, the bearings fit sloppy in the pulley and the pulley starts wobbling. When its still running the long 4 rib belt, the belt slips enough to absorb the wobble. Once you go to the cog belt, if the pulley starts wobbling, its gonna pitch the belt. The whole thing isn't really a cog belt problem, its a jackshaft pulley problem... Both the A&A and DP direct drive jack shaft pullies will develop this problem over time.

Those that have not yet seen this issue, likely have not checked the pulley since they "haven't had any problems"... But the problem will show up.

Mine has done this twice. I'm looking into different jackshaft pulley options now.

Honestly, I still believe the cog mod on the direct drive is a good mod and the true fix for belt slipping...It just has to have a good foundation (jackshaft pulley that lasts) and that's the problem.

FWIW, I did not have any issues at all with my cog belt, spinning it to 7200+ in high gear at least 10 times....probably more... and about 2500 miles. Never threw or broke a cog belt. I did wallow the $hit out of some jackshaft pullies though.

I think the true fix is a steel jackshaft pulley with the cogged ring attached.

Bob is a very nice, very smart, very conscientious guy, no doubt him and ECS will get this figured out.

My tip to everyone is, don't tighten the belt up much at all, leave it just snug on the bottom, doesn't need to be tight.
Was wondering if you ever found a better jackshaft pulley option as its a pain to change the cog belt when it breaks?


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