Unreal

Local guy did a solid roller. Dropped a ton of money doing the swap. Jessel rockers, machined heads, lifters, pushrods, etc. Thought it was going to make 50+rwhp more than a similar hydralic setup. After a bunch of issues, etc he finally got car running and made absolutely sad numbers. 40-50rwhp than most of the local basic cam cars. He was pissed that he bought into the solid roller thing. Everyone told him not to do it, but he didn't listen.

Besides Kip@CAM motion, who is trying to sell you one, I haven't seen or heard of anyone with luck on a street car. I have seen PLENTY of people with failed rockers and issues.

Race car, max effort, hell yah do it. Already making 1400rwhp and want to get to 1500rwhp+, go for it.

SHovV

Next Generation Performance, Cunningham Motorsports, Martin Smallwood. There's a guy thay goes by the user name SpeedTigger on ls1tech and yellowbullet who has a lot of documentation on his hydraulic to solid roller swap, as well as track testing and dyno testing.

There's also a guy that posts on here and ls1tech that goes by the name JMB who has a lot of documentation on his solid roller setup.

A few phonecalls, PMs and a little bit of searching on other forums with a better info base should help you make your decision.

ajrothm

If you're not pulling and inspecting your solid roller lifters, it's just a matter of time before one of them gets you. Whether it eats a wheel, a lobe or spits needle bearings... It WILL get you, and just because technology is better today, don't think the materials are....

Your only chance is to check the valve lash often, and if you see more the .002-.003 change at any one check up, you better pull it apart because something is happening.

Sticking your head in the clouds and saying "it runs/sounds fine so I'm good to go" will cost you a motor on a solid roller setup. Not to mention staying on top of spring testing.

I finally got rid of my last solid roller BBC about 3 years ago.. Got tired of the routine, and I didn't have to pull heads to get the lifters out on that one.

Honestly, it's just dumb to run a solid roller in an LS street motor....unless it's a max effort deal, and at that point, street miles/reliability probably isn't a concern.

It's your money, your time..

SHovV

Idk. To me, that train of thought, it seems like one should be pulling and inspecting hydraulic lifters and testing springs often also

usmcpony

I ordered the heads today. Should be weeks before I'll need to decide on the cam. I asked him about today and he said the low lash roller setup is more reliable. He said even with hydraulic rollers you're suppose to be inspecting them. Since I put maybe 2k-4k miles on my car a year. I'll hardly have to inspect them. I'll probably definitely do it every winter at least. That is if I decide to get the low lash rollers. I'm a newbie to this stuff and that's why I made this thread.

SHovV

What heads did you get?

usmcpony

All Pro 12-4

SHovV

Damn. You got the heavy duty heads, nice! Might as well go solid roller Lol

The AP's have room for 1/2" pushrods I believe. Overkill size for just about any LS combo that isn't a dedicated ultra high cylinder pressure race car. But if you can fit it why the hell not? Hell, I opened up my stock LS7 heads to accept 1/2" pushrods.

What's the rest of your build / combo look like?

usmcpony

Erl m5 427ci 6 bolt block, 1/2" head studs, 10:1 compression, All pro 12-4 heads, novi 2200r supercharger, E85. Haven't decided what type of cam yet. Need decide if I'm going with low lash solid rollers or hydraulic or intake yet.

Unreal

Well your heads are going to use the crowers correct? Thats locked in, so 90% of the extra cost for a solid roller is there. Might as well go full silly race car at this point.

Now if the $2k+ on rockers was an added expense, I wouldn't do it. You already are doing the rockers so there is basically no cost difference at this point.

White_Lightning

how much power are you trying to make???
i have a very Vanilla LME 427 lsx.. make 1450 rwhp and it makes power to my 7600 rpm limiter.. it actually would pull WAY past there but thats where i stopped..

off the shelf Dallas performance cam..

usmcpony

Its not locked in. He doesn't need a answer for 3-4 weeks. I can go with any setup I want. Only reason I'm considering it is because he said it's more reliable and allot less maintenance than most people think.

usmcpony

1000 to 1100rwhp With my 2200r. If I switch to a F1x probably 1200-1300rwhp.

Unreal

Put the money towards a transmission or drivetrain.

usmcpony

What is the best route for reliability and performance. If it isn't reliable. I don't want it. Doesn't matter how much faster it is. I understand its a performance car. Things are going to break. I just want the best of both worlds. I'm willing to take a slightly slower setup if its allot more reliable.

Detoxx03

Keep it simple. Stock overthinking things.

realcanuk

If you ask 100 guys with experience, probably 99 will say stock rockers. There is even an upgrade now to get rid of those silly needle bearings which is what I might have done if it was available at the time.
So many guys here making the power you are looking for, have been through it, and know what is working.... use their knowledge to your benefit.

That said, I am running aftermarket rollers......... 4 years now without one issue.

SHovV

If you go with a hydraulic setup, I would at least get a quality short travel lifter, like a Morel or Johnson.

Blackonblacksls

Do the solid.

It's dumb to me that guys want to spend all this money on blowers and forged internals and bla bla bla but think an extra grand or two in rockers is going to break them.. I don't want to or need to brag about how many stock parts my ls motor uses.


I checked my solid roller lash often and it didn't need any adjusting..

Of all the things that I felt made my last car too racey, the solid roller lifters and having the check the lash were not on the top of my list.


At the End of the day, a solid roller is a better design that will make more power. Period, end of story, it by design has more accurate and repeatable control of the valve train. No arguing, no options needed. That's fact.

I put more miles on my last car between valve adjustments than some of the guys in here do on motor swaps/refreshes.


If you're priority is to make power, or go fast, or to be reliable. Do it.


I wouldn't build another ls motor without a solid roller, they are so much more responsive, sound so much smoother, they are quieter, and my solid roller z06 with a 258/275 cam drove better than my other z06 with a 254/265 cam.. Both 427+ inch motor setup for NA.

inspector12

Anything but a FI non race car motor I'd 100% agree with you. But I don't think its going to make a lot more power or be more reliable Blackonblacksls. But that is just my opinion and you have run solids more than I have, but my experience is a lot closer to Alan's. And a good set of solid lifters CAN run considerably more as well, but not all are. So depending on his choice of lifter that can add to his cost of the conversion. GL to the OP. I'm sure what ever you decide will work out ok for you.