genolan

How often should the belt be changed under non racing conditions?
Should I carry a spare belt and tools to do a field repair?

With a tune the relies on Meth how am I assured that the meth system is working? I have a led light that tells me when it's suppose to be active but is that 100% fail safe?
If for some reason the meth is not spraying is the system smart enough to pull timing? Even if it does pull timing the added boost may be enough to cause problems with no Meth correct?

Just trying to understand the system better

Chiselchst

Some are tuned to determine when/if METH is pressured up. Your tuner/installer didn't spell all of that out for you? That should have been made pretty clear. Might wanna ask him...

neutron82

if the pulleys are aligned properly and everything is in working order in theory the belt should last quite awhile, probably a couple of years or more... I had problems with a certain company tossing and/or shredding belts so I swapped it for a&a and have zero issues since, I wouldn't worry about keeping a spare in the car with tools if you aren't currently having problems with it... as far as the tune, mine is setup to pull timing if the iats start to get too high which would happen if the meth system failed

Unreal

For first 10k miles or so, carry a belt/tools. Never know if you will have an issue until you put enough miles on it to rule it out.

White_Lightning

This is why i went Electric water pump.

belt dies.. no screwing with putting one on sitting on the side of the road.. drive it home and mess with it.

neverstop

I keep a spare belt and the three tools it takes to swap in back cubby just for peace of mind but if they are setup properly they should last at least 5-10k miles I'd think.

I use the dashlogic setup to show IATs on the dash and then I also have a wideband, so with that and keeping an eye on the red/green LED light you can keep a pretty good handle on meth issues. I've never had one fail like that though and I personally don't know anyone that has either so I think if it even really happens it's very rare.

your tuner should have set it up to pull timing and add fuel with the injectors if the IATs spike, but that IAT sensor is not amazingly responsive so it's hard to say how much protection that offers.

if you're not going for max numbers you can just have the tune set very conservative also that doesn't rely on the meth and then if it fails it shouldn't matter at all.

Josh@AandASuperchargers

No need for a spare belt if all was done right.
No need to carry tools, all vette owners should have AAA tho.

As for the meth you need to discuss how your tuner/installer set it all up. There are a few different ways that can go.

C6 Curtis

Only a few kits offer a good enough fail safe for you to tune relying on the meth for increased power. Aquamist has a flow gauge and multiple failsafes implemented in their kits. I recently ordered a custom Direct Port Aquamist kit with 9 nozzles 8 for each cylinder and one post intercooler made to support well over 1200whp. When it comes in I'll post it in my build thread.


-Curtis

BoosTTed C6

First light indicates system armed, second light indicates system spraying.

If Doug did your tune, ask him how it works so you have peace of mind from the guy you paid to provide that peace of mind. I'll tell you that if you don't have meth/too high AITs, the car will fall flat on its face without worries. That's how he tuned it.

I never needed to carry tools. I never threw a belt and I wailed on it constantly making 760 whpr on a stock LS2 through 4.10s.

genolan

I got this from Julio

So when you get into boost, the system activates meaning the LED goes red... once it has activated and the LED turns on, the controller starts sending power to the pump. Lets say 3.5 volts dc. As the boost increases past turnon the voltage sent to the pump also increases.. say 4,5,6,7, etc.. The higher the boost the more voltage the pump sees. As the pump gets voltage its shaft spins, and moves liquid. The more voltage, the faster it spins. The faster it spins the higher the pressure it can build. The green led condition simply means the pressure switch on the pump has moved. Having a red condition means system pressure is below 50 psi.

schpenxel

No.

Red means spraying and under 50psi of pressure. Green means spraying and over 50psi of pressure. There is a pressure switch built into the pump

If it goes green then you have over 50psi of pressure. Of course pressure doesn't 100% mean there is flow.. a line could be clogged

Typically tuners use the IAT sensor to pull a ton of timing if it's not getting cold enough (i.e. meth isn't working)