Need help on engine temps - 1k+ HP guys please help
03-25-2016, 03:42 PM
#21
Pro
Thread Starter
Said it many times, so one more wont hurt. Leaving some space between the IC and condenser, and re using the stock fan shroud (with modifications) has worked well for me. The shroud forces air through the rad, as it was intended to do all along.
I have yet to see another car where this was done, but it works for me. My friend with an blown Z06 copied this, and it also reduced his temps to a manageable level.
I know........... its not florida or Texas weather here, but it gets fairly hot in the summer. My buddies Z06 was running 230-240s like some of you guys, until he did this.
I also have an oil cooler with a fan, and the fog lights removed to allow tons of airflow through all my coolers.
Here is the shroud partway through the hacking up process.....
Here it is back installed.....
I have yet to see another car where this was done, but it works for me. My friend with an blown Z06 copied this, and it also reduced his temps to a manageable level.
I know........... its not florida or Texas weather here, but it gets fairly hot in the summer. My buddies Z06 was running 230-240s like some of you guys, until he did this.
I also have an oil cooler with a fan, and the fog lights removed to allow tons of airflow through all my coolers.
Here is the shroud partway through the hacking up process.....
Here it is back installed.....
THANK YOU EVERYONE THAT IS POSTING!
03-25-2016, 03:46 PM
#22
Le Mans Master
My cooler has a fan on it. I have the identical setup on the other side for my trans cooler. As you see in the pic it is in the fender and removing the fog lights lets tons of air flow right on them.
03-25-2016, 04:14 PM
#23
that oil cooler behind the light is a slick setup. I'd imagine that would have a huge impact on cooling. I think OP probably will be fine with just some side shroud work, cutting out a piece of the center bumper bar PatG style, and spacing the intercooler and AC condenser off the radiator a bit and maybe some tuning tricks but adding an oil cooler setup like that certainly wouldn't hurt. my iron block and no oil cooler is fine though. c5 vettes certainly have a harder time with frontal air flow. maybe tigershark style front bumper is key?
03-25-2016, 04:27 PM
#24
Team Owner
Dude... It's common that it's gonna run hot with the AC on in hot/humid climates with an intercooler in the front... Especially that big monster race cooler.
There is a few things you can try, most of them won't work. This has been an on going battle for most of us every summer, (especially the C5 guys with no grill)...
The trick is to try to space the intercooler forward away from the radiator to allow more gap for air to enter through the bottom..
You name it, I've tried it... Only thing left for me is to cut the front frame cross bar out and move the intercooler all the way up to the license plate area in the nose.
I have not tried the D3 brushless fan combo... I did have the single 17" brushless and it did not work well for me.
Good luck man,
I'm sub'd for your progress...
Btw Nick's car is the high power, cool running unicorn that hauls a$$ and never hurts motors..... His is THE ONE.. Lol
There is a few things you can try, most of them won't work. This has been an on going battle for most of us every summer, (especially the C5 guys with no grill)...
The trick is to try to space the intercooler forward away from the radiator to allow more gap for air to enter through the bottom..
You name it, I've tried it... Only thing left for me is to cut the front frame cross bar out and move the intercooler all the way up to the license plate area in the nose.
I have not tried the D3 brushless fan combo... I did have the single 17" brushless and it did not work well for me.
Good luck man,
I'm sub'd for your progress...
Btw Nick's car is the high power, cool running unicorn that hauls a$$ and never hurts motors..... His is THE ONE.. Lol
Motors yes, drive train now.
Just got tranny/torque tube back in. Got a notice on facebook, 4 years ago when I blew an axle apart, and before that when clutch went out. Seems like it is apart yearly for drivetrain upgrades/repairs.
03-25-2016, 10:45 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
-Curtis
03-30-2016, 03:56 PM
#26
Pro
Thread Starter
D3 will not work on the dewitt's shorty and would have to be trimmed with the F1X so I am going with the 17" brushless dewitts and starting the tear down today. I will keep it updated with pictures and what I chop up to get some air flow. Thanks!
03-30-2016, 08:02 PM
#27
I've never run an f1x but I'm guessing it should fit yours, however if you are questioning that, if you ask them Dewitts can make your brushless fan in an "adjusted" or special shape if you need it also. i had them fab mine different shape slightly than their normal fans to go around my velocity stack intake filter setup.
03-30-2016, 09:09 PM
#28
Team Owner
Shroud is the best thing to do like Jody suggested. I would have done that first as it is basically free and probably would have helped out a ton.
03-30-2016, 09:23 PM
#29
Le Mans Master
When I read all these problems regarding temperatures it makes me think about what it is keeps my car from having any issues. I think it is a combination of many thing, rather than just one magic fix. Here is a list of all things that I changed that may contribute, although some were not really done with temperatures in mind.
Dewitts full size rad with dual fans. (fans set to come on earlier than stock)
Factory shroud modified and being used and as much space as possible between the IC and condenser.
Transmission cooler, with radiator bypassed. Don't need the rad doing extra work IMO.
Oil cooler with fan..... lower oil temps have to help, although you don't want them too low.
All 4 steam vents connected. I have no clue if that contributes, but it could possible by eliminated air pockets I suppose.
Weather stripping on cowl and inserts in side vents removed..... trying to let as much air flow quickly out of the engine compartment as possible.
Headers are coated.. again no clue if that really helps engine temps.
That's all I can think of right now. As I said, some of this was not done thinking about engine temperature, but now I wonder if each helps a little.
Dewitts full size rad with dual fans. (fans set to come on earlier than stock)
Factory shroud modified and being used and as much space as possible between the IC and condenser.
Transmission cooler, with radiator bypassed. Don't need the rad doing extra work IMO.
Oil cooler with fan..... lower oil temps have to help, although you don't want them too low.
All 4 steam vents connected. I have no clue if that contributes, but it could possible by eliminated air pockets I suppose.
Weather stripping on cowl and inserts in side vents removed..... trying to let as much air flow quickly out of the engine compartment as possible.
Headers are coated.. again no clue if that really helps engine temps.
That's all I can think of right now. As I said, some of this was not done thinking about engine temperature, but now I wonder if each helps a little.
03-30-2016, 10:12 PM
#30
Team Owner
Dewitts with no extra coolers (same reason, take load off the radiator)
Spal 17" fan with custom shroud
Vented hood
Removed stripping on cowl
Ceramic coated headers and x pipe
Intercooler spaced away from condenser
Clear condenser/radiator. This makes a HUGE difference. Keep them both clean.
No oil cooler.
No tranny cooler.
Purposely small FMIC to allow air to FMIC. Could have gone MUCH MUCH MUCH larger, but no need and just hurts cooling.
Thats about it. Agreed it is a sum of parts. If I could go back I would run the full size dewitts and shroud.
Spal 17" fan with custom shroud
Vented hood
Removed stripping on cowl
Ceramic coated headers and x pipe
Intercooler spaced away from condenser
Clear condenser/radiator. This makes a HUGE difference. Keep them both clean.
No oil cooler.
No tranny cooler.
Purposely small FMIC to allow air to FMIC. Could have gone MUCH MUCH MUCH larger, but no need and just hurts cooling.
Thats about it. Agreed it is a sum of parts. If I could go back I would run the full size dewitts and shroud.
03-31-2016, 09:55 AM
#31
Pro
Thread Starter
starting on it last night. once I get the shroud off it is obvious why I am running so hot with the radiator and condenser resting against each other
once I got the bumper off I realized that the black flaps on either side of the grill are going nothing but hurting me. Easy removal with a razor blade
I think removed the middle plastic "intake" shroud that the bumper is supposed to air flow through, this is also getting removed and we are going to try to deflect air over the top shroud to the blower. right now my blower is doing nothing but sucking in hot air
Nice of my builder to mount my Inter cooler AGAINST my air bag sensor too.
Tonight we are going to get the IC out and start drawing my lines to cut the front crash bar and foam. I would like to get the IC sitting more forward straight up and down and lower. In order to accomplish this I either need to space the lower cradle down which will put the half oval skid bars lower to the ground then I would like or just have my local body shop fabricate a new custom cradle. I am on a 3 week deadline before an event so I will try spacing it first. I should have my 17" brushless dewitts fan here by the weekend so I can start drawing up a custom shroud to be made.
Thank you to everyone in this thread that has contributed. I would be in a tough spot without your help. I am currently not running an oil cooler and if my temps stay were I like I do not plan on adding one. If they are high I am going to try mounting one with a fan in one of the fenders.
I will post updates after the weekend
03-31-2016, 10:35 AM
#33
Pro
Thread Starter
When I read all these problems regarding temperatures it makes me think about what it is keeps my car from having any issues. I think it is a combination of many thing, rather than just one magic fix. Here is a list of all things that I changed that may contribute, although some were not really done with temperatures in mind.
Dewitts full size rad with dual fans. (fans set to come on earlier than stock)
Factory shroud modified and being used and as much space as possible between the IC and condenser.
Transmission cooler, with radiator bypassed. Don't need the rad doing extra work IMO.
Oil cooler with fan..... lower oil temps have to help, although you don't want them too low.
All 4 steam vents connected. I have no clue if that contributes, but it could possible by eliminated air pockets I suppose.
Weather stripping on cowl and inserts in side vents removed..... trying to let as much air flow quickly out of the engine compartment as possible.
Headers are coated.. again no clue if that really helps engine temps.
That's all I can think of right now. As I said, some of this was not done thinking about engine temperature, but now I wonder if each helps a little.
Dewitts full size rad with dual fans. (fans set to come on earlier than stock)
Factory shroud modified and being used and as much space as possible between the IC and condenser.
Transmission cooler, with radiator bypassed. Don't need the rad doing extra work IMO.
Oil cooler with fan..... lower oil temps have to help, although you don't want them too low.
All 4 steam vents connected. I have no clue if that contributes, but it could possible by eliminated air pockets I suppose.
Weather stripping on cowl and inserts in side vents removed..... trying to let as much air flow quickly out of the engine compartment as possible.
Headers are coated.. again no clue if that really helps engine temps.
That's all I can think of right now. As I said, some of this was not done thinking about engine temperature, but now I wonder if each helps a little.
Dewitts with no extra coolers (same reason, take load off the radiator)
Spal 17" fan with custom shroud
Vented hood
Removed stripping on cowl
Ceramic coated headers and x pipe
Intercooler spaced away from condenser
Clear condenser/radiator. This makes a HUGE difference. Keep them both clean.
No oil cooler.
No tranny cooler.
Purposely small FMIC to allow air to FMIC. Could have gone MUCH MUCH MUCH larger, but no need and just hurts cooling.
Thats about it. Agreed it is a sum of parts. If I could go back I would run the full size dewitts and shroud.
Spal 17" fan with custom shroud
Vented hood
Removed stripping on cowl
Ceramic coated headers and x pipe
Intercooler spaced away from condenser
Clear condenser/radiator. This makes a HUGE difference. Keep them both clean.
No oil cooler.
No tranny cooler.
Purposely small FMIC to allow air to FMIC. Could have gone MUCH MUCH MUCH larger, but no need and just hurts cooling.
Thats about it. Agreed it is a sum of parts. If I could go back I would run the full size dewitts and shroud.
YES YES YES thank you!! I am looking to doing something very similar and these pics are a huge help. If you have any more please share.
03-31-2016, 10:37 AM
#35
Le Mans Master
Those are all I have... it is very simple to do. Between that and some small spacers, everything is lowered nicely without losing a lot of ground clearance.
03-31-2016, 10:39 AM
#36
Team Owner
Why didn't you just have dewitts make the shroud? They have done several custom ones, and they turn out great and are priced really nice.
If you move the FMIC, you are probably going to have to redo the upper pipe. Your builder did nothing wrong, just installed it as designed.
Without a shroud, cutting the bumper area may hurt you. You want to force the air through the stuff. Opening that up without a way to make the air go through the radiator/fmic/etc will just have the air go around it. I would start with a piece of foam weather strip between the bar and FMIC. I think that would help a lot more than cutting that area out.
I also did a sheet aluminum lower damn to force air through the radiator/etc. So it doesn't go out the bottom of the car.
If you move the FMIC, you are probably going to have to redo the upper pipe. Your builder did nothing wrong, just installed it as designed.
Without a shroud, cutting the bumper area may hurt you. You want to force the air through the stuff. Opening that up without a way to make the air go through the radiator/fmic/etc will just have the air go around it. I would start with a piece of foam weather strip between the bar and FMIC. I think that would help a lot more than cutting that area out.
I also did a sheet aluminum lower damn to force air through the radiator/etc. So it doesn't go out the bottom of the car.
Last edited by Unreal; 03-31-2016 at 10:41 AM.
03-31-2016, 11:34 AM
#37
Pro
Thread Starter
are you running a front sway bar? After just looking at the car I do not see how I am going to be able to run a coolant hose in to the radiator after I drop it with the sway bar being directly in front of the coolant hose intake on the radiator
03-31-2016, 11:38 AM
#38
Le Mans Master
03-31-2016, 12:26 PM
#39
Pro
Thread Starter
Why didn't you just have dewitts make the shroud? They have done several custom ones, and they turn out great and are priced really nice.
If you move the FMIC, you are probably going to have to redo the upper pipe. Your builder did nothing wrong, just installed it as designed.
Without a shroud, cutting the bumper area may hurt you. You want to force the air through the stuff. Opening that up without a way to make the air go through the radiator/fmic/etc will just have the air go around it. I would start with a piece of foam weather strip between the bar and FMIC. I think that would help a lot more than cutting that area out.
I also did a sheet aluminum lower damn to force air through the radiator/etc. So it doesn't go out the bottom of the car.
If you move the FMIC, you are probably going to have to redo the upper pipe. Your builder did nothing wrong, just installed it as designed.
Without a shroud, cutting the bumper area may hurt you. You want to force the air through the stuff. Opening that up without a way to make the air go through the radiator/fmic/etc will just have the air go around it. I would start with a piece of foam weather strip between the bar and FMIC. I think that would help a lot more than cutting that area out.
I also did a sheet aluminum lower damn to force air through the radiator/etc. So it doesn't go out the bottom of the car.
I am making a sheet metal lower shroud/deflector to push air up direct to the front of the radiator too. Probably going to have one for both sides as well.
03-31-2016, 12:29 PM
#40
Pro
Thread Starter
I am also going to ditch the screen to run a straight pipe off of the F1X with a filter. I am cutting the front air intake on the Z06 bumper lower and making a plastic deflector to push air to the blower so I just need a straight pipe off of the blower, any idea if anyone makes one or should I just have one made?
I am also welding a piece of metal over the stock Procharger top shield since i will not be putting a filter in front of the radiator to keep the air from being pushed up away from the radiator.
I am also welding a piece of metal over the stock Procharger top shield since i will not be putting a filter in front of the radiator to keep the air from being pushed up away from the radiator.