Nino S

almost there

EX1

Out cruising right now. 215F while in town and 203F at 60mph on the highway is the most I have seen tonight. Its nice at 75F ambient though.

LSX block
Custom oil cooler (no fan)
Dewitts cut down radiator
SPAL dual fan kit
Thicker Procharger "race" FMIC

No modifications to the front end other than no more stock shrouding. Although I have heard it actually hurts your temps not having them. They are a pain to keep with the Procharger though.

ajrothm

215* idling with the AC on? If so thats pretty good... However 75* is easy to stay cool in... 95* and you'll be 230+.

Unreal

For reference, it was 85F all week. Car idles/runs at 178F which is t-stat temp. Took 22 minutes for oil temps to get to 180F from cold, highway driving.

Arctic Vette

FYI my SC/Built car would still overheat with dual spal dewitt kit, changed to DP3E and it has been 170-200 deg max but mostly at 175. The dewitt dual spal pulled more wattage so it burned my connector and had it replaced as well, keep an eye on that and i dont recommend having fans at 99% without the relay kit it will fry he connector. Arizona is not in the top 4 hottest states in the US so i dont get why some keep comparing to Florida or even Texas. I highly recommend if using dewitt get the relay wiring kit. The d3pe fan has been good thus far. I had overheating for months and did change the hoses, wp, rad, coolant, etc etc etc but ive never said the hoses brought down temps, they are better looking and dont expand as much thats about it.. No one really helped on here it all came down to diagnosis trial and error. Thankfully my car was fixed and I hope you get it all sorted Nino. Lots of us FI guys go through this issue but not 100% of FI guys, so I hope this post of my experience helps someone else with fan issues or overheating with their car....

neverstop

"other than no more stock shrouding."

boxing in the side of my radiator Pat-g style and putting the top shroud on my car both made a noticeable difference on their own for sure.

bullitt4110

Bumper turned out awesome!!

ZBESTZ

all these things mentioned in these threads will make a difference, including a VENTED HOOD.

EX1

This build hasn't seen those ambient temps yet so we will see I guess .

I plan on making some custom shrouds out of sheet metal this summer. Seems like a PITA to do though.

Unreal

Not that bad if you have the correct tools and access. Trying to get into my friends shop so I can work on my new FMIC/ducting/etc. Welded is there so can't do it at home. I'll have to photo/document it. Got some cool ideas.

cwylie

So if I am turbo and have room for the d3 fans they are the way to go?

Nino S

If I had a tall dewitts radiator I would strongly consider the D3 set up

ajrothm

Have you been running yours with the AC on in traffic yet with the new modded setup?

I'm curious to see your results with the cut frame bar and relocated IC...

Nino S

We have had nothing but rain in northern VA for 5 days straight and it looks like it I will not have a clear day until Sunday. I plan on going out all day Sunday and logging everything. I finally figured out how to get HPtuners suite to work in my cars lap top and should have some good data to share. I will be posting pics up of all of the shrouding soon too

Nino S

Aluminum top shroud that deletes the procharger filter hole. Making ducting on top to push all of the fresh air from the new bumper intake direct to the F1X. Going to also try building a box filter that will handle the 20+ psi because I really want to run a filter on the car.
Side shroud runs along the side to keep all of the fresh air flowing through the radiator with very little escaping the new monster 17" brushless fan that draw a lot more air then the 2 11" SPAL fans.

Nino S

the new intake is more then triple the size of the useless factory scoop. Has a black mesh screen glued to the bumper too.

ajrothm

WOW!

Everything looks great man! I love the modded scoop.

Do you didnt actually move the IC forward, you just notched the frame cross bar for more air flow TO the IC... It still looks pretty tight between the IC/condenser. I suppose if that fan is really killer, it could pull air through both the radiator and IC thru the big open grill but....

Either way, you did a great job on the frame notch, shrouding etc....I'm saving those pics for future use..

Making a duct from the blower inlet to the scoop would be killer if you can get it sized right to not restrict it. Outside/cool air only would be great.

Nino S

The ECS spacers do drop it down about 1 " and forward up to 1.5"



If you look at the original bolt locations and where the new ones are you can see the difference. I picked up a fair amount of real estate but the new brushless fan was a deeper then the dual SPAL fans too. I am able to move it a little but more forward if I have a pipe made from the IC to the throttle body since it would be too shallow and short but just ran out of time before the weekend race. If I am not happy with the temps with the new changes I have a couple small options to make a little more room but after seeing the amount of air that 17" brushless draws I think I am in good shape.

I did run in to an issue with my first fan and it reminded me of your install thread with the comparison of the twins vs the 17" brushless with the piece of paper in the grill. I had very little air movement after the install compared to my twin SPAL's.

I called John from Dewitts and spoke with him and he informed me that there have been issues with the wrong coolant temp sensors being sent with the 17" brushless kit. He had one shipped to me with a warranty replacement fan and after I replaced the sensor and fan I can see why many people run the single 17". It moves a TON of air compared to the 2 small SPALs once they are working as designed.

cwylie

Did you have to get new radiator hoses when you moved everything forward? I assume you had to make a new pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body.

Nino S

I did not purchase a new radiator, I had a almost new Dewitts shorty and all that the spacers did was drop the cradle down so you still use the same radiator mounts/holes as before. I did have a new pip made that goes in to the intercooler from the charge pipe 90" coupler that is by the front sway bar. I did not have another pipe made from the IC to the throttle body since i was on a time crunch. I bought a 4 ply 3.5" x 12" coupler and cut the coupler down to about 4.5" to fit. You can see that I tried to get up as far up on the pipe as possible going to the TB. I figured the more the clamp has to bite on to the better