Price to hit 1500whp? C6Z
#1
Price to hit 1500whp? C6Z
I want the ability to hit 1500whp on race gas but drive around town 800-1k.
Im open to Superchargers and turbos. I know its much easier to do it with twins though.
Also id like to build a rear end and trans for it.
I just cant seem to find a rough price on a custom twin set up and obviously cant find the price on having a shop do most of the work.
I have enough money to do it already just want to not get ripped off when I do it.
any help is awesome and much appreciated. Only need a rough estimate if possible.
Im open to Superchargers and turbos. I know its much easier to do it with twins though.
Also id like to build a rear end and trans for it.
I just cant seem to find a rough price on a custom twin set up and obviously cant find the price on having a shop do most of the work.
I have enough money to do it already just want to not get ripped off when I do it.
any help is awesome and much appreciated. Only need a rough estimate if possible.
Last edited by joewarner; 04-02-2016 at 01:33 AM.
Popular Reply
04-02-2016, 02:01 PM
Team Owner
People are throwing out the big things, and there is SOOOO many things for a reliable 1000+hp car, that know one ever list.
Just like Nino is finding out, you'll have $2500+ into cooling. $3k+ into suspension. Drivetrain is easy $25k if not more. Electronics/gauges/sensors/etc $5k+ to do it correctly.
Not even throwing in labor, or trouble shooting, and all that fun stuff.
I think I'm the only 1000+rwhp vette that is actually driven a lot, and has over 20k miles now at 1000+. So I think I have enough experience to comment on it. I also have one of the most reliable cars, but it is easily down 3+months out of the year for random dumb ****.
If you don't have a spare $10k laying around, just in case, I would even consider starting a 1000+ build.
And I would never suggest or endorse another 1000+ corvette build unless it is a race car. There are simply better platforms for 1000+hp.
You also quickly learn the internet is full of lies, and not to believe anyone. Two friends with 1200+rwhp camaros, both go through built 6060s like candy. They are each on 3 or 4. Few events, few miles races, and gears are whining like crazy and have to be redone. Same with claims on what motors support, and what parts support. The it lived a dyno pull, and it lived 20+ passes, compared to it lived 30k+ and 200+ passes are completely different categories.
Great thing about 1000+hp cars, is plenty of people ignore all advice, do a bunch of 1/2 *** ****, get an unreliable POS, that gets sold for 1/2 of what they have into it. If you want a 1000+car start with one of those, as you will save a ton of money, and then just put the $30-40k into it to make it reliable if they have a good base started.
Just like Nino is finding out, you'll have $2500+ into cooling. $3k+ into suspension. Drivetrain is easy $25k if not more. Electronics/gauges/sensors/etc $5k+ to do it correctly.
Not even throwing in labor, or trouble shooting, and all that fun stuff.
I think I'm the only 1000+rwhp vette that is actually driven a lot, and has over 20k miles now at 1000+. So I think I have enough experience to comment on it. I also have one of the most reliable cars, but it is easily down 3+months out of the year for random dumb ****.
If you don't have a spare $10k laying around, just in case, I would even consider starting a 1000+ build.
And I would never suggest or endorse another 1000+ corvette build unless it is a race car. There are simply better platforms for 1000+hp.
You also quickly learn the internet is full of lies, and not to believe anyone. Two friends with 1200+rwhp camaros, both go through built 6060s like candy. They are each on 3 or 4. Few events, few miles races, and gears are whining like crazy and have to be redone. Same with claims on what motors support, and what parts support. The it lived a dyno pull, and it lived 20+ passes, compared to it lived 30k+ and 200+ passes are completely different categories.
Great thing about 1000+hp cars, is plenty of people ignore all advice, do a bunch of 1/2 *** ****, get an unreliable POS, that gets sold for 1/2 of what they have into it. If you want a 1000+car start with one of those, as you will save a ton of money, and then just put the $30-40k into it to make it reliable if they have a good base started.
#2
Instructor
You're gonna be north of $50k for a build like this....
$20k for a motor
$15k for a custom twin setup
$5k for fuel
$10k for a built drivetrain
$8k for wheels/tires + spindles to fit 15" wheels out back to be able to hook that power
$5k for miscellaneous stuff + tuning
all these are rough estimates from building 3 high hp twin turbo cars myself doing most if not all the work myself.
There's a built RHS shortblock for sale in the c6 for sale section for $10k I think, that's a good foundation to start with.
$20k for a motor
$15k for a custom twin setup
$5k for fuel
$10k for a built drivetrain
$8k for wheels/tires + spindles to fit 15" wheels out back to be able to hook that power
$5k for miscellaneous stuff + tuning
all these are rough estimates from building 3 high hp twin turbo cars myself doing most if not all the work myself.
There's a built RHS shortblock for sale in the c6 for sale section for $10k I think, that's a good foundation to start with.
#3
So I've been researching a few others peoples builds and opinions and see a lot wish they kept it around 800-1khp at max due to drivability issues and traction. Now I've got to think that part over as I didn't think that part through but if that was the new goal are costs the same?
#4
Melting Slicks
Stroke and forge your motor then stick a huge supercharger and proper fuel system on it.Go with a powerglide.You ll make a 1000 rwhp and remain fairly streetable.15 inch drag radials with a high profile and there is your 8 second street car.Not that complicated .Get some high quality rear axles too.
#9
Burning Brakes
Dream on.
+1500whp is tough.
And it's not going to happen overnight. Depending on (pro)builders, days become weeks, then months, then, well...
Good luck!
#11
Team Owner
People saying $50-60k have never done a reliable 1000rwhp car I bet.
I would say $100k to start.
I would say $100k to start.
#12
#13
Le Mans Master
Once you pass 1000 and go for that 1500 number, just bring a blank check with you...... gonna get very expensive.
#14
He has... and so have I. I never added it up, and don't really want to. LOL. I think if a shop is doing the whole build, then budget the 100k. If you can do a lot yourself, it would be considerably less.
Once you pass 1000 and go for that 1500 number, just bring a blank check with you...... gonna get very expensive.
Once you pass 1000 and go for that 1500 number, just bring a blank check with you...... gonna get very expensive.
If I went for 800-1000 you feel prices are the same?
#15
Le Mans Master
Obviously, the less you shoot for, the less stuff you have to upgrade. There are guys who just throw on a blower, make 800, and hope for the best. If you want reliable, and not breaking something constantly, you have to upgrade the diff, trans, fuel system, etc, etc.
#16
Safety Car
Add another 4K for ProEfi
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#17
Yeah I'd want reliability for sure. I have the t56 now and would want an upgrade zr1 geared tr6060. I guess my main concern is if the stock ls7 block with forged internals can handle 800whp.
What do you think? If you don't mind me continuing to pick your brain that is.
What do you think? If you don't mind me continuing to pick your brain that is.
#18
I was saying $50k for engine/power adder/fuel. That did not include wheels/tire/trans/diff/electronics/etc. I am $107k in my car after I added everything up and cried for a little and still have more money to spend. Pro EFI $4k, sheet metal intake $4k, cage $3k, seats $2k.......... it never stops
#19
Team Owner
People are throwing out the big things, and there is SOOOO many things for a reliable 1000+hp car, that know one ever list.
Just like Nino is finding out, you'll have $2500+ into cooling. $3k+ into suspension. Drivetrain is easy $25k if not more. Electronics/gauges/sensors/etc $5k+ to do it correctly.
Not even throwing in labor, or trouble shooting, and all that fun stuff.
I think I'm the only 1000+rwhp vette that is actually driven a lot, and has over 20k miles now at 1000+. So I think I have enough experience to comment on it. I also have one of the most reliable cars, but it is easily down 3+months out of the year for random dumb ****.
If you don't have a spare $10k laying around, just in case, I would even consider starting a 1000+ build.
And I would never suggest or endorse another 1000+ corvette build unless it is a race car. There are simply better platforms for 1000+hp.
You also quickly learn the internet is full of lies, and not to believe anyone. Two friends with 1200+rwhp camaros, both go through built 6060s like candy. They are each on 3 or 4. Few events, few miles races, and gears are whining like crazy and have to be redone. Same with claims on what motors support, and what parts support. The it lived a dyno pull, and it lived 20+ passes, compared to it lived 30k+ and 200+ passes are completely different categories.
Great thing about 1000+hp cars, is plenty of people ignore all advice, do a bunch of 1/2 *** ****, get an unreliable POS, that gets sold for 1/2 of what they have into it. If you want a 1000+car start with one of those, as you will save a ton of money, and then just put the $30-40k into it to make it reliable if they have a good base started.
Just like Nino is finding out, you'll have $2500+ into cooling. $3k+ into suspension. Drivetrain is easy $25k if not more. Electronics/gauges/sensors/etc $5k+ to do it correctly.
Not even throwing in labor, or trouble shooting, and all that fun stuff.
I think I'm the only 1000+rwhp vette that is actually driven a lot, and has over 20k miles now at 1000+. So I think I have enough experience to comment on it. I also have one of the most reliable cars, but it is easily down 3+months out of the year for random dumb ****.
If you don't have a spare $10k laying around, just in case, I would even consider starting a 1000+ build.
And I would never suggest or endorse another 1000+ corvette build unless it is a race car. There are simply better platforms for 1000+hp.
You also quickly learn the internet is full of lies, and not to believe anyone. Two friends with 1200+rwhp camaros, both go through built 6060s like candy. They are each on 3 or 4. Few events, few miles races, and gears are whining like crazy and have to be redone. Same with claims on what motors support, and what parts support. The it lived a dyno pull, and it lived 20+ passes, compared to it lived 30k+ and 200+ passes are completely different categories.
Great thing about 1000+hp cars, is plenty of people ignore all advice, do a bunch of 1/2 *** ****, get an unreliable POS, that gets sold for 1/2 of what they have into it. If you want a 1000+car start with one of those, as you will save a ton of money, and then just put the $30-40k into it to make it reliable if they have a good base started.
Last edited by Unreal; 04-02-2016 at 02:04 PM.
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#20
People are throwing out the big things, and there is SOOOO many things for a reliable 1000+hp car, that know one ever list.
Just like Nino is finding out, you'll have $2500+ into cooling. $3k+ into suspension. Drivetrain is easy $25k if not more. Electronics/gauges/sensors/etc $5k+ to do it correctly.
Not even throwing in labor, or trouble shooting, and all that fun stuff.
I think I'm the only 1000+rwhp vette that is actually driven a lot, and has over 20k miles now at 1000+. So I think I have enough experience to comment on it. I also have one of the most reliable cars, but it is easily down 3+months out of the year for random dumb ****.
If you don't have a spare $10k laying around, just in case, I would even consider starting a 1000+ build.
And I would never suggest or endorse another 1000+ corvette build unless it is a race car. There are simply better platforms for 1000+hp.
You also quickly learn the internet is full of lies, and not to believe anyone. Two friends with 1200+rwhp camaros, both go through built 6060s like candy. They are each on 3 or 4. Few events, few miles races, and gears are whining like crazy and have to be redone. Same with claims on what motors support, and what parts support. The it lived a dyno pull, and it lived 20+ passes, compared to it lived 30k+ and 200+ passes are completely different categories.
Great thing about 1000+hp cars, is plenty of people ignore all advice, do a bunch of 1/2 *** ****, get an unreliable POS, that gets sold for 1/2 of what they have into it. If you want a 1000+car start with one of those, as you will save a ton of money, and then just put the $30-40k into it to make it reliable if they have a good base started.
Just like Nino is finding out, you'll have $2500+ into cooling. $3k+ into suspension. Drivetrain is easy $25k if not more. Electronics/gauges/sensors/etc $5k+ to do it correctly.
Not even throwing in labor, or trouble shooting, and all that fun stuff.
I think I'm the only 1000+rwhp vette that is actually driven a lot, and has over 20k miles now at 1000+. So I think I have enough experience to comment on it. I also have one of the most reliable cars, but it is easily down 3+months out of the year for random dumb ****.
If you don't have a spare $10k laying around, just in case, I would even consider starting a 1000+ build.
And I would never suggest or endorse another 1000+ corvette build unless it is a race car. There are simply better platforms for 1000+hp.
You also quickly learn the internet is full of lies, and not to believe anyone. Two friends with 1200+rwhp camaros, both go through built 6060s like candy. They are each on 3 or 4. Few events, few miles races, and gears are whining like crazy and have to be redone. Same with claims on what motors support, and what parts support. The it lived a dyno pull, and it lived 20+ passes, compared to it lived 30k+ and 200+ passes are completely different categories.
Great thing about 1000+hp cars, is plenty of people ignore all advice, do a bunch of 1/2 *** ****, get an unreliable POS, that gets sold for 1/2 of what they have into it. If you want a 1000+car start with one of those, as you will save a ton of money, and then just put the $30-40k into it to make it reliable if they have a good base started.
Now yes I have a 1100+ hp C6 Z06 that has 500 miles on the build and is ripped apart in my shop for another 2 weeks while I spend a ton of time and money getting the cooling system figured out. I no longer have the love for the car that I had before and almost dislike it because it requires so much of my little free time and extra money. We all have jobs to pay for our toys and want to spend that free time enjoying our toys, not fixing the next thing that is going to break on our toys.
Last edited by Nino S; 04-02-2016 at 02:58 PM.
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