Seadawg

OK experts

I'm trying to plan out the eventual install this summer of a centri style supercharger on my 2011 dry sump version LS3 Grand Sport.

It's my only vehicle, so I'm trying to break it down into smaller jobs. I'm very fortunate that I have an ex-Corvette mechanic to help with everything , he has all the tools, etc. I also have weekend access to a 4 post lift for us to use.

Here's my questions for now:

1.) If I upgrade my radiator/cooling, do I need to remove/loosen the steering rack to pin my harmonic balancer? If I still need to move the steering rack, I'll probably do the harmonic balancer pinning first, then another weekend replace the radiator setup.

2.) While doing the harmonic balancer pinning, is possibly replacing the seal the only other thing to consider while doing it? I have about 70k on the vette, so I figure do the seal while the balancer is off.

3.) Should I also do the catch can install while either doing the harmonic balancer or radiator upgrade? Just trying to plan it out, without taking stuff apart twice, if possible.


Thanks in advance for any recommendations, etc. from the "been there and done that" crowd

bullitt4110

The pinning is done without removing balancer, just the bolt. You can either pull the rack or drop the cradle. Radiator, crank pinning and catch can do not really overlap at all in the install.

schpenxel

1 - pinning can be done with the rack still in by lowering the subframe and raising the engine. It's tight, but is easier (IMO) than pulling the rack. Doing it while the radiator/fan is out will def. make it easier by giving more room

2 - you would have to remove the balancer in order to get to the seal, which is not required when pinning the balancer. It's not a bad idea to replace the balancer entirely and also the seal while it's off. If you chose to remove the balancer you DO have to remove the steering rack, so it is more work for sure.

3 - Catch can can be done totally separately. I'd do it later

Nosferatu

Let me just stop you right there...don't do it.

Unreal

A balancer upgrade isn't a bad idea. Grab an OD balancer up front from IW or ATI.

Catchcan can be done at any time.

Radiator same thing. Not a huge job. Would be easier to do the blower with radiator out, but can be done either way.

schpenxel

staticki

From my experience, I would tell you that it is much easier to just do everything at once. Take a Monday off work, begin working on it Friday with your buddy, and that'll give you 2 days to play around with it if things don't go as planned. If your buddy did a SC install before, you can knock it out in an afternoon (including pinning the crank), otherwise I say 1.5 days is about average for the first time.

The benefit of doing everything at once is you'll have more room to work. Start by taking the radiator out first. That'll let you get you more room for the two power steering hard lines that have to be removed for crank pinning. (While you are in there, I would suggest throwing in a blower cam as well since you are doing 80% of the work anyway). After that, begin putting the bracket on for the blower. Having the radiator out will give you more room to work and ensure that everything is properly aligned.

M M Alexander

Your FIRST modification should be a second vehicle.
Why would anyone want a Vette as a daily driver ... Yet alone attempt it with a "modified" one.

RC4G

That's ridiculous.

My wife's 2012 CE Grandsport is her daily driver, she has put 30k+ miles on it in less than 3 years. She could have had anything she wanted (originally was looking at CTS-V) but won't trader her vette for anything now.

Nosferatu

I daily drove mine, and also daily drive my GT-R, BUT I did have a backup vehicle after boosting the C6. You will find weak links in your setup and random gremlins rearing it's head. Trust me I've been there done that.

Throughout the years of modding cars, I've come to the conclusion that if you do basic bolt-ons more times than not you'll be fine. When you starting doing significant power adders (adding forced induction, or going bigger blower/turbo on a factory FI car) you're going to the land of unknown. You will have things break. It's basically called pay to play and while I did that with a daily driver I also had a backup vehicle for when the car did go down out of commission.

...hence my initial comment.

Seadawg

Nos, you are still around As you know, I followed your setup over the years, you pushed yours a lot harder than I plan to, and that's why I'm "sneaking" into a SC setup. My plan is to get a good deal on a new harmonic balancer (most likely either ATI or Power Bond), and then plan an install for it. Even if I don't go SC, it doesn't hurt a thing having it on the vette, and my original factory one may fail anyway.

I only plan on boosting to about 550 rwhp, exactly because I want the same reliability I have today, because it is my DD. Meaning, no plans for drag radials, etc.

Guys, thanks for the radiator and catch can advice, both of them could wait until after the SC install, but it may make sense to do it at the same time - gotta think more about it, as I round up parts.

I'll also be looking at upgrading my clutch eventually too, just because I have very cheap (and very good) labor helping me out.

And for all the naysayers about using a vette as a daily driver, I have been doing it since 2009, and NEVER had an issue with it. It's been as dependable as any other vehicle out there for me.

Remember, Nos and I live in Florida, and the only thing we have to watch out for is the torrential rain a couple times a year.

Nosferatu

CFOT > GTR OT that's why I'm still around. I occasionally glance at this section seeing if the new owner is going to rear his head so I can troll on him.

You'll want DRs and you'll want meth. You'll go over 550. Even at 575RWHP on Mustang dyno I still had gremlins pre-meth. Just throwing that out there. Don't think just because you're at a "set number" the car will be magically fine.

The stock clutch will not handle a boosted car. Mine never slipped but it certainly didn't like to fully disengage at the track on gear shifts and would cause you to miss gears.

Yes I daily drove my C6 and it was rock solid...until I boosted it.

Boost your car and I'll line up with your boosted GS and make you wish you had more than 550 HP!

Seadawg

Haha, I hear ya, and I know you are giving sound advice.

And no, I won't let you blow my doors off with your GTR either

Chiselchst

Remember, the LS3 dry sump takes the LS7 HB.
FWIW, Co Speed has the Powerbond 6-rib LS7 SFI rated balancer PB1503SS for $233. That's a great price. Powerbond specs on the EOM one, the PB1503N are incorrect online. I've been talking with them about that. Also the PB1503SS is indicated as an 8-rib online, but that is NOT correct. It's a 6-rib.
PB1503N is suppose to be an exact EOM duplicate, so they claim. Ignore the specs online ([total] OD and width are not correct online).
Good luck!

Andy@A&ACorvette

My guys pin the crank without dropping the cradle OR taking the rack out.
They leave the steering column shaft and tie rod ends attached. They pop it out of the mounts and move it up and over to the passenger side.
I'll be updating our instructions when I open up the new website.