When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The float is pretty much a positive n negative n sends to signal to the gauge depends how it gets connected it can either read jt right or backwards so wouldn't a float that measures the fuel in your specific fuel sell just hooked up to the gauge n given power make the factory gauge work just having the gauge independently working(kinda like if it was a new wideband gauge been installed)
That is true, that is how the sender works... However there are 2 of them. One in drivers tank and one in pass tank. When the pass side is empty the gauge shows half full. If at any point the signals get mixed up it throws an error and gauge goes to 0. I am very familiar with this setup unfortunately. I have contemplated going to a cell for quite some time now
I've been talking with Dudeman and I believe he came up with a solution to use the fuel cell with the factory gauge. Hopefully he will chime in.
-Curtis
We shall see
Basically you need something to convert a 0-80 ohm sender to 0.7 to 2.5V signal (per tank) that the ECM will be happy with (for both tanks). And the signal has to behave like a stock one would, i.e. passenger tank drains first, etc.
Hopefully it's figured out but dude's will be the first real test. I give it a 50/50 shot working on the first try
That is true, that is how the sender works... However there are 2 of them. One in drivers tank and one in pass tank. When the pass side is empty the gauge shows half full. If at any point the signals get mixed up it throws an error and gauge goes to 0. I am very familiar with this setup unfortunately. I have contemplated going to a cell for quite some time now
So because of it having to be empty on the pass side to read 1/2 running two senders in the cell wouldn't be an option?
I am currently running a sump on both tanks with an external pump. So I am not using the factory transfer function. With both tanks hooked up together they are both the at same level. What I did was modify the sender position an arms so the sender still has full travel but the pass side reads from full to half and the drivers reads half to empty.
running 2 senders in a cell would work but I can tell you from experience, it takes a lot of trial and error to make the floats/senders work correctly.
I was really hoping to have someone chime in like" oh yeh you just need this...". Vengence had to do something with Sinisters tank.. maybe they can chime in.
if the gauge is connected seperately from anything just its own power source to act as a simple gauge when the car turns on and the gauge is then connected to any float the needle will read w.e position the float is in its that simple you just have to bypass all the ******** and make it exactly what it is... A fual gauge for a float nothing else 12v power n ground. If any warning messages come up on the display since the ecu no longer sees the fuel quantity is another problem have someone delete that or live with it but at least ull know how much fuel u have 24/7
if the gauge is connected seperately from anything just its own power source to act as a simple gauge when the car turns on and the gauge is then connected to any float the needle will read w.e position the float is in its that simple you just have to bypass all the ******** and make it exactly what it is... A fual gauge for a float nothing else 12v power n ground. If any warning messages come up on the display since the ecu no longer sees the fuel quantity is another problem have someone delete that or live with it but at least ull know how much fuel u have 24/7
It doesn't work how you're thinking, we all wish it was that simple. My gauge reads 0 and always says low fuel. To get it to work correct the sending unit needs to send the correct readable signal to the ECU. Sure I can get a GM autometer gauge from the Zone and hook that bad boy up and read what's in the tank but I'd rather have the cluster gauge like most. Going to check it in the back really isn't a huge deal for me because how simple it is. Vengeance made it work so hopefully they can give input.
The float is pretty much a positive n negative n sends to signal to the gauge depends how it gets connected it can either read jt right or backwards so wouldn't a float that measures the fuel in your specific fuel sell just hooked up to the gauge n given power make the factory gauge work just having the gauge independently working(kinda like if it was a new wideband gauge been installed)
Stock has two senders. It's a corvette so of course they have to make it complicated. I've been working with a member on here and we're about to test a potentially plug n play unit that will make the factory gauge work. Should have testing soon, I'm confident in his capabilities so it should be available for purchase shortly.
I am currently running a sump on both tanks with an external pump. So I am not using the factory transfer function. With both tanks hooked up together they are both the at same level. What I did was modify the sender position an arms so the sender still has full travel but the pass side reads from full to half and the drivers reads half to empty.
running 2 senders in a cell would work but I can tell you from experience, it takes a lot of trial and error to make the floats/senders work correctly.
I was really hoping to have someone chime in like" oh yeh you just need this...". Vengence had to do something with Sinisters tank.. maybe they can chime in.
His doesn't work like factory gauge. He said it works at 50% or something
if the gauge is connected seperately from anything just its own power source to act as a simple gauge when the car turns on and the gauge is then connected to any float the needle will read w.e position the float is in its that simple you just have to bypass all the ******** and make it exactly what it is... A fual gauge for a float nothing else 12v power n ground. If any warning messages come up on the display since the ecu no longer sees the fuel quantity is another problem have someone delete that or live with it but at least ull know how much fuel u have 24/7
Doesn't work like that, you can't just delete the code. It was say malfunction or something I forget and then go to 0. I've tried all of that already. You will need a separate converter to make it work properly
Could just max out the passenger tank empty, then use the driver tank sender in the cell.
So the last half of the gauge would read correctly....
Not the perfect solution, but might not show up as an error and would always know when you're going empty..
Would be just like only putting in half of tank everytime you filled up as far as gauge is concerned?
Or have it work flawlessly...? Once this converter is dialed in. $150 to have a fuel cell work with my stock gauge seems like a bargain. Especially when it will be plug n play.
Or have it work flawlessly...? Once this converter is dialed in. $150 to have a fuel cell work with my stock gauge seems like a bargain. Especially when it will be plug n play.
Well yeah IF it works, and IF you make it available for sale, and IF the wait isn't too long as some people are already in the middle of the build.. It would be a better solution for sure.
Well yeah IF it works, and IF you make it available for sale, and IF the wait isn't too long as some people are already in the middle of the build.. It would be a better solution for sure.
By that's a lot of ifs for some of us.
It'll work I'll throw some power to my car and take a video next week. Have a few interested in it already so once I post the video and confirm it woks as it should. Lead time would only be a few days.
05-11-2016, 07:35 AM
