When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
it is quite possible you will be forever happy with the wild, and it is up gradable to boot.
-but i got no problems selling you a wild kit! it doesn't hurt anything but the pocket to throw the big gun at it from the start.
I'll definitely hit you up soon. I just dropped a short block in the car, and the intent is to start looking for a ysi, so obviously it would make sense to go for the wild kit.
Even though I am not FI, is this what I need for my stroked track car motor. I have an '02 Z06 with a stroked LS2 that makes 500+rwhp that I dd and track once a month. My second track day yesterday, oil started dripping out the bottom, so I am assuming I blew out the rear seal. It wasn't until I started pushing the car real hard on the 3rd session that the leak started. I need to do more than just repl seal and I came upon your thread. I currently have a breather set up similar to this one in this diagram:
except I have t'd the passenger side valve covers with driver side into a breather.
Will your set up be sufficient for my motor and my use or should I just do the full vacuum pump? The difference in money is not as big an issue as just fixing the problem. My apologies for the length of post but I wanted to give you all the pertinent details. Your video is very convincing. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
For track usage on an NA engine when money is no issue, a mechanical vacuum pump is hard to beat. Blower cars don't have an easily accessible option like that. His kit is also much cheaper, but it won't pull vacuum when you really need it. That said, I'm really happy with my MM solution.
Even though I am not FI, is this what I need for my stroked track car motor. I have an '02 Z06 with a stroked LS2 that makes 500+rwhp that I dd and track once a month. My second track day yesterday, oil started dripping out the bottom, so I am assuming I blew out the rear seal.
Will your set up be sufficient for my motor and my use or should I just do the full vacuum pump? The difference in money is not as big an issue as just fixing the problem. My apologies for the length of post but I wanted to give you all the pertinent details. Your video is very convincing. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Johnny
Johnny if you could email me some photos of your current setup/engine bay that is the quickest way for me to find the most likely cause. That being said I do custom builds to replace failing systems from other brands every day, you are in the majority. All cans are not created equal, and most are only at home on stock cars. That can, mine, or none I can make sure we don't have something making things worse, and after that can say to what level of improvement the 'Boosted' adapter will give you. Without a doubt it will help.
Originally Posted by Unreal
Yes it does
Unreal is using the DRAFT model which pulls to the air filter based on fitting size, position, and air filter restriction. (scavenge only not pcv system) If this suction is lost, or if crankcase pressure exceeds the suction then the can switches modes to stabilize crankcase pressure to atmosphere. The pcv system, (PCV model) can of course relies on intake manifold vacuum (like stock) which on most builds that suction is lost at full load, and the can switches modes to stabilize crank pressure to atmosphere.
It would take the 'Recirculator' option if you wanted to perform both operations simultaneously.
Line to preblower provides suction. Only not under vacuum if crank case pressure exceeds the vacuum source. So yes it is under vacuum except when something bad happens then the MM safety feature of the 1 way vent kicks in and vents the excess pressure, otherwise it is under vacuum 100% of the time.
I tried running it like that but he talked me out of it. My original catch can was routed that way.
We can always email or pm if you have any questions or perhaps your build changes direction.
I take each can build from a blank sheet of paper and make the recommendations based on the info I gather on the car and owner, not past sales or even what is necessarily popular.
Unfortunately this leads to some confusion when people get to comparing setups down the river... guys hooking up a vacuum line to their can because they saw some other guy had one..etc. well that's dangerous. When in doubt from me or otherwise, always go back to the manufacturer, especially of something custom built just for you.
[QUOTE=David@MMS;1593333132]Johnny if you could email me some photos of your current setup/engine bay that is the quickest way for me to find the most likely cause. That being said I do custom builds to replace failing systems from other brands every day, you are in the majority. All cans are not created equal, and most are only at home on stock cars. That can, mine, or none I can make sure we don't have something making things worse, and after that can say to what level of improvement the 'Boosted' adapter will give you. Without a doubt it will help.
Here is my current set up:
I have the older style valve covers, so there is a line from the driver side vc that is tee'd to the 2 ports on passenger side ports and run to breather can. The valley cover port is run to its own catch can. There was little to zero oil in both cans after 5 sessions.
09-16-2016, 11:27 AM
What will we do !!!!
