Time for a shortblock for my YSI
10-20-2016, 10:57 AM
#22
Melting Slicks
His last statement rings the most truth. You are trying to way over build for the goals in mind and that is going to eat your budget.
Iron block 408
brand "who ever" 4340 crank
brand "who ever" H beam rods
Brand "who ever" pistons for boost
Custom cam (why throw in a cam that everyone and brother has when you can have a custom cam ground for you and only you at the same price.
ARP everything!
Stock GM timing components
Melling oil pump with low pressure spring
Clevite H series bearings
I just did all of this with a top end not near as good as yours with 16psi and made 904whp
Iron block 408
brand "who ever" 4340 crank
brand "who ever" H beam rods
Brand "who ever" pistons for boost
Custom cam (why throw in a cam that everyone and brother has when you can have a custom cam ground for you and only you at the same price.
ARP everything!
Stock GM timing components
Melling oil pump with low pressure spring
Clevite H series bearings
I just did all of this with a top end not near as good as yours with 16psi and made 904whp
10-20-2016, 11:06 AM
#23
Le Mans Master
I have to disagree somewhat. I have seen my buddies eagle crank give out at 1000 hp. For the power you are going for I would go with good parts and do it once, properly.
I do agree that the actual building of the motor is as important as the parts used. Personally I went with LME, but I'm sure there are others that do a fine job.
I do agree that the actual building of the motor is as important as the parts used. Personally I went with LME, but I'm sure there are others that do a fine job.
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ajrothm (10-20-2016)
10-20-2016, 11:08 AM
#24
Melting Slicks
I have to disagree somewhat. I have seen my buddies eagle crank give out at 1000 hp. For the power you are going for I would go with good parts and do it once, properly.
I do agree that the actual building of the motor is as important as the parts used. Personally I went with LME, but I'm sure there are others that do a fine job.
I do agree that the actual building of the motor is as important as the parts used. Personally I went with LME, but I'm sure there are others that do a fine job.
Last edited by 1MEANGS; 10-20-2016 at 11:10 AM.
10-20-2016, 11:13 AM
#26
Le Mans Master
I can post the time slip / video if you like. He never blew up that motor once. Beat the snout out of it. Here is a video of the car... https://youtu.be/wU29Cj1Im14
10-20-2016, 11:15 AM
#28
Melting Slicks
I agree I'm not saying to purposely put **** parts in the motor lol I'm just saying don't over buy or over think it like most do. Any of the brands he mentioned will work well and hold that power!
10-20-2016, 11:16 AM
#30
Instructor
Thread Starter
I have built plenty of N/A builds but this time i think its time for a professional to step in and actually do it right. I keep hearing LME so it looks like them and maybe TSP . Out of most the responseshear ive yet to see a "thompson" post so idk with them as of yet.
10-20-2016, 11:20 AM
#32
Le Mans Master
I have to disagree somewhat. I have seen my buddies eagle crank give out at 1000 hp. For the power you are going for I would go with good parts and do it once, properly.
I do agree that the actual building of the motor is as important as the parts used. Personally I went with LME, but I'm sure there are others that do a fine job.
I do agree that the actual building of the motor is as important as the parts used. Personally I went with LME, but I'm sure there are others that do a fine job.
And I have also had a Compstar flex itself to death at 850 rwhp...
People tend to forget that the blower itself is eating 200+hp to turn itself, that is power the crank is still seeing. Honestly, I'd trust a stock crank before I trusted another Compstar.
I also vote to build it right the first time, you will DAMN sure be doing it again eventually when you're in the 800+rwhp range.
Also, I would personally stick with an LS2 block. They are plenty strong and can easily handle 900-1000 rwhp if you don't detonate on them. The up side is you save 80-90lbs of weight and more importantly its way easier to keep the water temps down with the aluminum block. Just my opinion...
OP
If I were you, I'd take your stock LS2 engine to a local builder, have them put rods/pistons in it, put head studs in it and call it good....Build it for less the $4k, have no weight penalty and not create potential heating issues. DONE... Unless your block is damaged, then thats another story.
Last edited by ajrothm; 10-20-2016 at 11:27 AM.
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TTBlueZ06 (10-20-2016)
10-20-2016, 11:46 AM
#36
Le Mans Master
And I have also had a Compstar flex itself to death at 850 rwhp...
People tend to forget that the blower itself is eating 200+hp to turn itself, that is power the crank is still seeing. Honestly, I'd trust a stock crank before I trusted another Compstar.
I also vote to build it right the first time, you will DAMN sure be doing it again eventually when you're in the 800+rwhp range.
Also, I would personally stick with an LS2 block. They are plenty strong and can easily handle 900-1000 rwhp if you don't detonate on them. The up side is you save 80-90lbs of weight and more importantly its way easier to keep the water temps down with the aluminum block. Just my opinion...
OP
If I were you, I'd take your stock LS2 engine to a local builder, have them put rods/pistons in it, put head studs in it and call it good....Build it for less the $4k, have no weight penalty and not create potential heating issues. DONE... Unless your block is damaged, then thats another story.
People tend to forget that the blower itself is eating 200+hp to turn itself, that is power the crank is still seeing. Honestly, I'd trust a stock crank before I trusted another Compstar.
I also vote to build it right the first time, you will DAMN sure be doing it again eventually when you're in the 800+rwhp range.
Also, I would personally stick with an LS2 block. They are plenty strong and can easily handle 900-1000 rwhp if you don't detonate on them. The up side is you save 80-90lbs of weight and more importantly its way easier to keep the water temps down with the aluminum block. Just my opinion...
OP
If I were you, I'd take your stock LS2 engine to a local builder, have them put rods/pistons in it, put head studs in it and call it good....Build it for less the $4k, have no weight penalty and not create potential heating issues. DONE... Unless your block is damaged, then thats another story.
10-20-2016, 12:37 PM
#37
Team Owner
LME or Livernois is the only places I would go for a engine build (short of super high end stuff like Proline/Urban/etc)
Don't cheap out on crank.
Cubes is up to you. Friends 376ci Ysi makes near identical power to my 427 Ysi from 5-7k. I make a lot more torque from 2-5k, but from there up graphs are within 5hp of each other. He did a cheap basic piston/rod forged ls3 combo and I have a high end 427 lsx setup. He did finally wipe out the stock ls3 crank from flex. Just redid another 376 with better parts and is all good and making way more power than me now on a smaller motor. The low end from the cubes just makes it harder to hook. If I could go back I would probably do a smaller stroke.
Don't cheap out on crank.
Cubes is up to you. Friends 376ci Ysi makes near identical power to my 427 Ysi from 5-7k. I make a lot more torque from 2-5k, but from there up graphs are within 5hp of each other. He did a cheap basic piston/rod forged ls3 combo and I have a high end 427 lsx setup. He did finally wipe out the stock ls3 crank from flex. Just redid another 376 with better parts and is all good and making way more power than me now on a smaller motor. The low end from the cubes just makes it harder to hook. If I could go back I would probably do a smaller stroke.
10-20-2016, 12:54 PM
#38
"OP
If I were you, I'd take your stock LS2 engine to a local builder, have them put rods/pistons in it, put head studs in it and call it good....Build it for less the $4k, have no weight penalty and not create potential heating issues. DONE... Unless your block is damaged, then thats another story."
This imo. but of course depends on your goals
I got an unusual deal but I way overthought my LSX block 427ci setup and doing it again would have not gone super crazy on the short block and spent more money on other exterior stuff.
agreed with lower stroke too. doing it again I probably would go with 376ci setup instead of my 427ci. I underestimated how hard it it so to hook up >900whp on the street and my car might be even faster on the street with less mid range actually.
agreed on LME though. also all the good engine builders will be backed up for at least a few months. it sucks but if I were you I'd just get ready to wait for awhile and just have LME build it.
If I were you, I'd take your stock LS2 engine to a local builder, have them put rods/pistons in it, put head studs in it and call it good....Build it for less the $4k, have no weight penalty and not create potential heating issues. DONE... Unless your block is damaged, then thats another story."
This imo. but of course depends on your goals
I got an unusual deal but I way overthought my LSX block 427ci setup and doing it again would have not gone super crazy on the short block and spent more money on other exterior stuff.
agreed with lower stroke too. doing it again I probably would go with 376ci setup instead of my 427ci. I underestimated how hard it it so to hook up >900whp on the street and my car might be even faster on the street with less mid range actually.
agreed on LME though. also all the good engine builders will be backed up for at least a few months. it sucks but if I were you I'd just get ready to wait for awhile and just have LME build it.
10-20-2016, 02:51 PM
#39
Here is another example, this TMS engine was sent to Mike for blueprinting. Numbers speak for themselves.
I wouldn't recommend them to anyone.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ine-build.html
10-20-2016, 03:51 PM
#40
Instructor
Thread Starter
Spoke with Bryan at LME and he was very personal and professional with everything. Pretty sure thats where im gonna end up going to for it. Now to decide 402 aluminum or 408 Iron . Hmmm